Which oil do you use in your Escos
16-01-2006, 08:55 PM
#4
Thanks
This is the oil thats in it when i bought it FORD FORMULA S/SD 5W-40 synthetic
Do you think this ok it was put in just before Xmas by prvious owner
Do you think i should change it ?
Has got slight tap from cold but thats another job
shuts up after a few mins 
This is the oil thats in it when i bought it FORD FORMULA S/SD 5W-40 synthetic
Do you think this ok it was put in just before Xmas by prvious owner
Do you think i should change it ?
Has got slight tap from cold but thats another job
shuts up after a few mins
16-01-2006, 09:00 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by rizla
Has got slight tap from cold but thats another job shuts up after a few mins
shuts up after a few mins Mine was the same until i put some decent oil in it, now its as smooth as a babys arse on startup.
16-01-2006, 09:05 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Ryan_Belfast
Originally Posted by rizla
Has got slight tap from cold but thats another job shuts up after a few mins
shuts up after a few mins Mine was the same until i put some decent oil in it, now its as smooth as a babys arse on startup.
Ryan what oil do you use ?
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16-01-2006, 09:57 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by rizla
Originally Posted by S1rst
Mines always had Shell Helix. No tapping what so ever, even when left a good few weeks. 
17-01-2006, 11:54 PM
#16
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been said b4 and will be said many more times 5w 40 fully synthetic thats whats meant to be in there so use it!!!!!!! 
the oilman has commented this on many occasions running anything bar what is suggested WILL do damage unless you are running huge huge power!!!! so take it from what he says and use a good branded 5w/40 (i use millers)
the oilman has commented this on many occasions running anything bar what is suggested WILL do damage unless you are running huge huge power!!!! so take it from what he says and use a good branded 5w/40 (i use millers)
18-01-2006, 09:33 AM
#18
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castrol rs 10 60. Thats what was in my engine after a full rebuild and thats what ill continue to use. If it damaged the engine then surely the engine builder would know this and use something else.... If oilman is the same one as the other forums, he does not always have the same views as other people. I used to be on scoobynet and he was slated on there for sayin which oil was the best because he sold that one or somethin. I cant remember the exact story but it didnt make him look good. Ill just use whatever im told to use by the person who builds the engine.
18-01-2006, 06:17 PM
#20
Originally Posted by adamski frst
been said b4 and will be said many more times 5w 40 fully synthetic thats whats meant to be in there so use it!!!!!!!
the oilman has commented this on many occasions running anything bar what is suggested WILL do damage unless you are running huge huge power!!!! so take it from what he says and use a good branded 5w/40 (i use millers)
the oilman has commented this on many occasions running anything bar what is suggested WILL do damage unless you are running huge huge power!!!! so take it from what he says and use a good branded 5w/40 (i use millers)
And told me Groves use it as well so ill let you know how it goes
And the other thing Woodfords recommended 10-60 to but they said castrol
18-01-2006, 08:49 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Chris Reade
Shell Helix in mine, always used to tap with Mobil 1.
Im going to take it for a run on the motorway tomorrow since changing the oil my mate took it round the block
see if its still tapping after a good run then ill start it first thing in the morning and see what its like
once warm it does shut up 
18-01-2006, 11:29 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by dave cos4x4
in the ford manuals it says 10-50.
So i don't think oilman can say 10-40 is the genuine stuff to put in.
i'm using mobil 10-50.
So i don't think oilman can say 10-40 is the genuine stuff to put in.
i'm using mobil 10-50.
18-01-2006, 11:45 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by rizla
This is the oil thats in it when i bought it FORD FORMULA S/SD 5W-40 synthetic
Do you think i should change it ?
Do you think i should change it ?
18-01-2006, 11:47 PM
#26
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I run Motul 300V Competition - proper Esther based synth oil.
Other one I can suggest is hard to obtain in UK (Castrol TWS Motorsport - only in BMW dealerships), but Silkolene Pro-S is adviced by oilman and from my talks to him he knows his job
Other one I can suggest is hard to obtain in UK (Castrol TWS Motorsport - only in BMW dealerships), but Silkolene Pro-S is adviced by oilman and from my talks to him he knows his job
19-01-2006, 02:06 PM
#27
Right ive just started in the garage its been running 30 mins so far i havent reved it just ticking over
Right every say 30 seconds there is a very slight tapping but you have to listen for it
With the 5-40 Ford stuff it use to shut up after a few mins
So shall i give it a chance on the millers 10-60
or ditch it and go back to the 5-40 maybe shell i aint got a clue
Or just go back to what was init
Right every say 30 seconds there is a very slight tapping but you have to listen for it
With the 5-40 Ford stuff it use to shut up after a few mins
So shall i give it a chance on the millers 10-60
or ditch it and go back to the 5-40 maybe shell i aint got a clue
Or just go back to what was init
19-01-2006, 08:13 PM
#29
Right took it out for good run drives like a dream but heard it tap once for a bit on first part of drive then never heard it no more
Then just backing in the garage and it starts tapping a little Switched it off
I thought thats it im going in for a cup of tea
Then just backing in the garage and it starts tapping a little
Switched it off I thought thats it im going in for a cup of tea
19-01-2006, 08:23 PM
#31
Originally Posted by KSA-Cossie
Silkolene pro s 15w 50
Im going to leave it and give it a chance the 10-60
We knew the lifters needed doing even with the old oil it used to tap from cold but after a few mins it would shut up
And the car does really drive well its just the tapping
20-01-2006, 01:13 PM
#33
Originally Posted by KSA-Cossie
I was recommended to use a thinner oil during winter time to stop the tapping.
But im putting new lifters in timming belt etc so ill leave it for now and see how it goes
Well my mates doing all the work so i know it will be sorted
20-01-2006, 05:10 PM
#36
Originally Posted by Gregs
10w-60 castrol rs
in a new engine, recomended by engine builder
in a new engine, recomended by engine builder
Im going to stick with the 10-60 car seams to be driving nice
Was on the m11 today and it was pulling on an Evo only tap from cold today
so its getting better
26-01-2006, 10:02 AM
#37
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Have you all gone completely mad or are you on a deathwish for your engine? If MadRod can use Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 or 10w-50 so can you!
PLEASE READ THIS:
Let's get one thing clear, I supply 10w-60 and recommend it where it is appropriate for the engine or the application but conversly I caution against it's misuse!
I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean.
Explaining this is diffucult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English!
Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100degC.
Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50.
To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100degC (no thinner than)
SAE 30 11cst approx
SAE 40 14cst approx
SAE 50 18cst approx
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.
As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.
SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100degC!
This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30!
So, what's the problem with this thickness?
Well, this is measured at 100degC and at lower temps (70-90degC) all oils are thicker than at 100degC so the problem is compounded to some extent.
The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows:
Additional friction, heat and wear.
A reduction of BHP at the wheels
Lower fuel consumption
The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels.
So, when do we spec a thicker oil?
Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances.
1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
3. If it's required by the handbook.
Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110degC for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130degC for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability.
Once you see more than say 120degC for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100degC and still 11cst at 130degC! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100degC.
More importantly at 90degC an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst!
In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff!
I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Just because your mates use it and have had no problems is not a good enough reason to use it, your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil.
Cheers
Simon
http://www.opieoils.co.uk
PLEASE READ THIS:
Let's get one thing clear, I supply 10w-60 and recommend it where it is appropriate for the engine or the application but conversly I caution against it's misuse!
I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean.
Explaining this is diffucult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English!
Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100degC.
Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50.
To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100degC (no thinner than)
SAE 30 11cst approx
SAE 40 14cst approx
SAE 50 18cst approx
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.
As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.
SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100degC!
This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30!
So, what's the problem with this thickness?
Well, this is measured at 100degC and at lower temps (70-90degC) all oils are thicker than at 100degC so the problem is compounded to some extent.
The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows:
Additional friction, heat and wear.
A reduction of BHP at the wheels
Lower fuel consumption
The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels.
So, when do we spec a thicker oil?
Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances.
1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
3. If it's required by the handbook.
Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110degC for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130degC for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability.
Once you see more than say 120degC for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100degC and still 11cst at 130degC! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100degC.
More importantly at 90degC an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst!
In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff!
I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Just because your mates use it and have had no problems is not a good enough reason to use it, your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil.
Cheers
Simon
http://www.opieoils.co.uk
26-01-2006, 10:07 AM
#39
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Simon, don't take it so personal. Your campaign against thick (and often not eally synthetic oils) reminds me my campaging against misunderstanding of how differentials and 4x4 systems work on forum.subaru.pl I know it never ends, but can give you stomach ulcers 
26-01-2006, 10:32 AM
#40
Advanced PassionFord User
I'm not bothered mate, they're not my cars but I think that posts get lost on this forum so quickly that it's worth reminding people from time to time of the advice that I have given 
Cheers
Simon
Cheers
Simon