quick shift kit
24-10-2005, 10:48 AM
#3
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As above, had this one on both my escorts and rate it very highly.
Rally Design
Units 8 - 10 North Quay
Upper Brents Industrial Estate
Faversham
Kent, UK
ME13 7DZ
www.raldes.co.uk
01795 531871
Rally Design
Units 8 - 10 North Quay
Upper Brents Industrial Estate
Faversham
Kent, UK
ME13 7DZ
www.raldes.co.uk
01795 531871
30-10-2005, 02:06 PM
#5
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I've juste fitted my B&M and if the feeling is like as I expected in a shifting point of view (I Guess it won't be differante than the Rally design one) but I'm quite sade as the feeling with the lever itself is really poor! there is a sharp angle on the top which is very bad and there logo on top almost worse 
When I look on what I paid for that compare to the rally design one I would'nt advice to my worse enemy to buy a B&M
When I look on what I paid for that compare to the rally design one I would'nt advice to my worse enemy to buy a B&M
30-10-2005, 02:48 PM
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so the b&m shift replaces the whole standard gear stick,where as the rally design one replaces just the bottom part???????what if your standard shifter is fooked is it better to buy b&m or what?????
30-10-2005, 07:25 PM
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I would suggest to buy the RD bit and a second hand gear stick to built something ready to be fitted 
it will still be cheaper than the B&M for a better feeling.. but that's my feeling.
it will still be cheaper than the B&M for a better feeling.. but that's my feeling.
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31-10-2005, 04:54 PM
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I bought a graham goode "GGR 059 4wd Quickshift" because I was told it was about the best to get and it uses the standard gear knob.
I have not got round to fitting it yet though so I don't know how good / bad it is from a personal point of view.
Anyway - how do you fit these kit's and are they easy to fit?
I have not got round to fitting it yet though so I don't know how good / bad it is from a personal point of view.
Anyway - how do you fit these kit's and are they easy to fit?
31-10-2005, 05:59 PM
#9
if you are going for the 4wd kit then you need to get the cradle off from the box
this means dropping the box (literaly) so you can get to the bolts to undo the cradle and unclip the selector
then it's a question of pulling the hwole caboodle apart (you need small screwdrivers and circlip pliers and a vice and a spanner and a punch and a chisel (screwdriver) to bend the locking tab over and a bit of hammering, that sort of thing) to get it in bits to swap the little lever thing apart
once it's all apart the metal bit pops out of the plastic housing, you refit this with the new one and away you go
with one hand (broken left wrist in plaster) it took me 5 hours, on me tod
the most difficult part of the whole swap is getting to the bolt on the drivers side of the transfer box (it's a left hand job
) but i think i've got some pics about
this means dropping the box (literaly) so you can get to the bolts to undo the cradle and unclip the selector
then it's a question of pulling the hwole caboodle apart (you need small screwdrivers and circlip pliers and a vice and a spanner and a punch and a chisel (screwdriver) to bend the locking tab over and a bit of hammering, that sort of thing) to get it in bits to swap the little lever thing apart
once it's all apart the metal bit pops out of the plastic housing, you refit this with the new one and away you go
with one hand (broken left wrist in plaster) it took me 5 hours, on me tod
the most difficult part of the whole swap is getting to the bolt on the drivers side of the transfer box (it's a left hand job
) but i think i've got some pics about
31-10-2005, 06:01 PM
#10
thats the bit you are going to change
and thats what you need to pop out
it comes out of the top but you can't get to the top without getting it off from the bottom, and due to the nature of the fittings you need to get the cradle off first
31-10-2005, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by july1
I've juste fitted my B&M and if the feeling is like as I expected in a shifting point of view (I Guess it won't be differante than the Rally design one) but I'm quite sade as the feeling with the lever itself is really poor! there is a sharp angle on the top which is very bad and there logo on top almost worse
When I look on what I paid for that compare to the rally design one I would'nt advice to my worse enemy to buy a B&M
When I look on what I paid for that compare to the rally design one I would'nt advice to my worse enemy to buy a B&M
01-11-2005, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dojj
if you are going for the 4wd kit then you need to get the cradle off from the box
this means dropping the box (literaly) so you can get to the bolts to undo the cradle and unclip the selector
then it's a question of pulling the hwole caboodle apart (you need small screwdrivers and circlip pliers and a vice and a spanner and a punch and a chisel (screwdriver) to bend the locking tab over and a bit of hammering, that sort of thing) to get it in bits to swap the little lever thing apart
once it's all apart the metal bit pops out of the plastic housing, you refit this with the new one and away you go
with one hand (broken left wrist in plaster) it took me 5 hours, on me tod
the most difficult part of the whole swap is getting to the bolt on the drivers side of the transfer box (it's a left hand job ) but i think i've got some pics about
this means dropping the box (literaly) so you can get to the bolts to undo the cradle and unclip the selector
then it's a question of pulling the hwole caboodle apart (you need small screwdrivers and circlip pliers and a vice and a spanner and a punch and a chisel (screwdriver) to bend the locking tab over and a bit of hammering, that sort of thing) to get it in bits to swap the little lever thing apart
once it's all apart the metal bit pops out of the plastic housing, you refit this with the new one and away you go
with one hand (broken left wrist in plaster) it took me 5 hours, on me tod
the most difficult part of the whole swap is getting to the bolt on the drivers side of the transfer box (it's a left hand job
) but i think i've got some pics aboutYou 'just' have to unscrew the rear shaft bearing put to box on a jack take the gearbox cradle out (the whole cradle) and then lower the engine/box assembly
You will just have enough room the remove the rear screws of the lever cradle.
Then you can remove the boot from the spherical pivot bearing casing, remove the axis that connect the lever to the shift rod! (to unscrew the nut you just unscrew it! No need to unbend the washer)
Finally you take the circlip out from the inside with the lever and you fit everything together back with the new quick shift... (there you’ll have to use a little hammer and a piece of steel to bend the washer to secure the nut)
Two of my m8s did it this way.
Or alternatively you wait the have to upgrade (or renew) your clutch to remove the box totally like I did
02-11-2005, 04:46 PM
#15
Originally Posted by july1
No this is wrong!
You 'just' have to unscrew the rear shaft bearing put to box on a jack take the gearbox cradle out (the whole cradle) and then lower the engine/box assembly
You 'just' have to unscrew the rear shaft bearing put to box on a jack take the gearbox cradle out (the whole cradle) and then lower the engine/box assembly
you would have to remove the prop to do this and it serves no purpose, the bolts that you can't get to are the ones at the top of the cradle
Originally Posted by july1
You will just have enough room the remove the rear screws of the lever cradle.
Then you can remove the boot from the spherical pivot bearing casing, remove the axis that connect the lever to the shift rod! (to unscrew the nut you just unscrew it! No need to unbend the washer)
Then you can remove the boot from the spherical pivot bearing casing, remove the axis that connect the lever to the shift rod! (to unscrew the nut you just unscrew it! No need to unbend the washer)
you can't unscrew the nut wit the washer in place because it locks into both the hole in the bottom and over the nut
Originally Posted by july1
Finally you take the circlip out from the inside with the lever and you fit everything together back with the new quick shift... (there you’ll have to use a little hammer and a piece of steel to bend the washer to secure the nut)
Two of my m8s did it this way.
Or alternatively you wait the have to upgrade (or renew) your clutch to remove the box totally like I did
Two of my m8s did it this way.
Or alternatively you wait the have to upgrade (or renew) your clutch to remove the box totally like I did
03-11-2005, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dojj
Originally Posted by july1
No this is wrong!
You 'just' have to unscrew the rear shaft bearing put to box on a jack take the gearbox cradle out (the whole cradle) and then lower the engine/box assembly
You 'just' have to unscrew the rear shaft bearing put to box on a jack take the gearbox cradle out (the whole cradle) and then lower the engine/box assembly
you would have to remove the prop to do this and it serves no purpose, the bolts that you can't get to are the ones at the top of the cradle
Son you don't remove the complete shaft but only the bearing to allow the box to be lowered.
Originally Posted by dojj
Originally Posted by july1
You will just have enough room the remove the rear screws of the lever cradle.
Then you can remove the boot from the spherical pivot bearing casing, remove the axis that connect the lever to the shift rod! (to unscrew the nut you just unscrew it! No need to unbend the washer)
Then you can remove the boot from the spherical pivot bearing casing, remove the axis that connect the lever to the shift rod! (to unscrew the nut you just unscrew it! No need to unbend the washer)
you can't unscrew the nut wit the washer in place because it locks into both the hole in the bottom and over the nut
Originally Posted by dojj
Originally Posted by july1
Finally you take the circlip out from the inside with the lever and you fit everything together back with the new quick shift... (there you’ll have to use a little hammer and a piece of steel to bend the washer to secure the nut)
Two of my m8s did it this way.
Or alternatively you wait the have to upgrade (or renew) your clutch to remove the box totally like I did
Two of my m8s did it this way.
Or alternatively you wait the have to upgrade (or renew) your clutch to remove the box totally like I did
03-11-2005, 06:06 PM
#17
i can't move the sofa out of the way to get the whole box out but you can see what i mean (i can't move the XR out of the way to get the trailer out of the way to get to the 24V lump out of the way to get the gearbox outside either and for the life of me i can't rememerb wehre i've put that little shaft that goes from the bottom of the selector to the gearbox so you'll have to bear with me)
but
the little knob at the bottom is what you need to disconnect from the rest of the selector shaft that goes into the gearbox, and while i can see that the other way would possily work, i think it's much easier to do it my way
you can see the bolts that i have removed from the front and there are 2 on the side (one either side) to pop out and then you can just pop a pin and out it comes
daylight and some bodies to shift stuff about will yeild more pictures unles someone else can come up with the goods?
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