Idle Problem
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Idle Problem
Hi,
On my Large Turbo Esc Cos i have a problem on idling
It idles on about 1500rpm once warmed up
Idles perfect when first started for the first 5 minutes and then it starts to happen again
Ive changed the Idle speed control valve for another one but no change
Can anyone help me as its driving me mad
Thanks in advance
Chris.
On my Large Turbo Esc Cos i have a problem on idling
It idles on about 1500rpm once warmed up
Idles perfect when first started for the first 5 minutes and then it starts to happen again
Ive changed the Idle speed control valve for another one but no change
Can anyone help me as its driving me mad
Thanks in advance
Chris.
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You can get similar trouble with at least ECT,ACT sensor (the only ones I had trouble with) but I guess with a faulty MAP sensor you may have it too.
So do the autodiag!!
(if you want to do another quick test: @ 20°C the values of the ACT and ECT have to be the same so with a cold engine and a multimeter you should find out if one of them is dammaged. (if it's the case I'll let you know the right value so you will be able the change the right one)
So do the autodiag!!
(if you want to do another quick test: @ 20°C the values of the ACT and ECT have to be the same so with a cold engine and a multimeter you should find out if one of them is dammaged. (if it's the case I'll let you know the right value so you will be able the change the right one)
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Take the idle valve off & give it a good spray with WD40 while carefully pushing the piston up & down...........This will either cure it or you'll have to do the above!
The valves have a tendency to stick, a common fault on all Cosworths!! (dunno why any of you never thought of that!!)
The valves have a tendency to stick, a common fault on all Cosworths!! (dunno why any of you never thought of that!!)
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As said before.
There are small devices for sale around the globe. You just plug these into a port in the engine bay and you get a readout of which sensor are at fault.
You can make one yourself. Sent a PM to july1 and he can tell you how.
There are small devices for sale around the globe. You just plug these into a port in the engine bay and you get a readout of which sensor are at fault.
You can make one yourself. Sent a PM to july1 and he can tell you how.
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Sorry guys I havn't read your answers for this post sorry for that!
So, many of you are right I'm talking using a fault code reader (which should tell you if a sensor is dammaged).
I said 'should' because it can only tell you if the sensor (or loom) is cut or in short circuit and sometimes the ACT or the ECT are simply out of there range giving wrong informations to the ECU so you get wrong fuel and ignition timing! but it's the first thing to try anyway.
As I said somewere else another simple test to do is to check ACT and ECT sensors as they share the same kind of resitor, when the engine is cold you should get the same value in the two of them using an ohmeter! (about 3.0Kohm @25°C).
Back on the autodiag now.
I'm sure you should be able to find the complete stuff all of you need by becoming a Goldmenber and having a look to the "Technical essay Archives" section.
If you don't wan't to give 20£ for the forum contact me on MP and I'll see what I can do for you (the point is I don't have it in english...)
For information to built you own reader you just need an old type voltmeter (needle type) or a 12V led (led + 1Mohm resitor), a piece of wire and a paper clip!!!
That's why this test worth to be done
Just one final word about the T25 (small turbo cossie) as most of you knows the use the Ford ECCIV ECU then this test does't apply and you'll need to go to a Ford dealer to read the fault codes..
So, many of you are right I'm talking using a fault code reader (which should tell you if a sensor is dammaged).
I said 'should' because it can only tell you if the sensor (or loom) is cut or in short circuit and sometimes the ACT or the ECT are simply out of there range giving wrong informations to the ECU so you get wrong fuel and ignition timing! but it's the first thing to try anyway.
As I said somewere else another simple test to do is to check ACT and ECT sensors as they share the same kind of resitor, when the engine is cold you should get the same value in the two of them using an ohmeter! (about 3.0Kohm @25°C).
Back on the autodiag now.
I'm sure you should be able to find the complete stuff all of you need by becoming a Goldmenber and having a look to the "Technical essay Archives" section.
If you don't wan't to give 20£ for the forum contact me on MP and I'll see what I can do for you (the point is I don't have it in english...)
For information to built you own reader you just need an old type voltmeter (needle type) or a 12V led (led + 1Mohm resitor), a piece of wire and a paper clip!!!
That's why this test worth to be done
Just one final word about the T25 (small turbo cossie) as most of you knows the use the Ford ECCIV ECU then this test does't apply and you'll need to go to a Ford dealer to read the fault codes..
#19
Hi, did you find out of you idling problem?
I have just the same probleme as you on my -93 Ecs Cos, 1500 rpm when normal temp, everyhing else working perfect.
Jan Erik
Norway
I have just the same probleme as you on my -93 Ecs Cos, 1500 rpm when normal temp, everyhing else working perfect.
Jan Erik
Norway
#20
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You'd think ford would have learnt with these valves, i had a fiesta turbo , various XR2i and they all did this. Its an absolute pain when you pull up to traffic lights !!
I found cleaning them didn't work for long, I got a new one in the end.
My escort has sometimes started to think the idle valve doesn't exist in a morning with the car cold, i have to have my foot on the throttle for a few minutes.
I found cleaning them didn't work for long, I got a new one in the end.
My escort has sometimes started to think the idle valve doesn't exist in a morning with the car cold, i have to have my foot on the throttle for a few minutes.
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