Kelv

iTrader: (4)

Just awaiting for my Gaz Coilovers to come thru anytime now.

But just wondering what is the best spring rates to go for, leave them as Gaz supplies or is there a better rate spring to chage to.

i believe im getting...

8" - 325lbs fronts.
12" - 300lbs rears.

Sound feasable??

Glenn5

alot of people seem 2 have 250 front and 200 rear for a comfy road going ride

Kelv

iTrader: (4)

Blimey, thats quite a drastic difference

Cheers Glenn

art411y

iTrader: (1)

had this discussion last week on here.and the outcome was 325 front with medium firmnessand defo no more than 200 rear on a softest setting

Kelv

iTrader: (4)

Cheers arty, just seen/read the post.

looks like ill be getting a set of 200lbs rear springs sent thru aswell!

Rs Craig

que the rain man

jamesXXX

200lbs on the back, fookin 300lbs would be knock all yuor teeth out

Kelv

iTrader: (4)

dont want to be having false teeth at this age.....

Do you think 200lbs rear springs will ok, giving that the car will have less wait... basically the car is going to be stripped!

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Even 200lb springs will be too hard .

2001ode

iTrader: (1)

Hi, Mike,

If 200 lb is too hard, what ratio do you recommand ?
I sended monday a purchase on Burton of 2 rear spring coil over of 200 lb !!!
It is still time to change !
What is your advise ? 120 lb ?

Thanks for info.

2001ode

iTrader: (1)

Sorry,

It is for Sapphire 2wd, with Bilstein 260/90 new.

Claude

kennyA

just fitted Leda coilovers with 575 fronts and 500 rears.

last year with konis fitted with 'koni 'springs the car sat down too much at the line and leaned too much on corners.

5000rpm... drop clutch... go.

the car was prone to understeer a lot even with slicks.

handling with new set up? I'll find out in 4 weeks.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Just to give you some idea, I run 171lb Eibach coil-over springs on the rear of mine (with LEDAs ), and I can't go above position 7 of 22 without the back-end hopping on tight 2nd gear corners (which means it is too hard). However, it does depend on you dampers, as the bump / rebound rates along with the spring length all play an important part in spring poundage.

I would say 150lb would be suitable, but it depends on your dampers.

500lb on the rear is way, way too hard IMO (unless you have removed the ARB?), but you will find out soon enough .

Why do people think that hard springs = better handling - the wheel has to stay in contact with the road for it to provide grip .

kennyA

Hi

Thanks for your input, I will definately keep it in mind
I discussed with Leda which spring rates would be good for racing. I went for the gas units with bump and rebound to give me a lot of adjustment options.

1st point, I'm probably not the best driver and many others could go faster. It's a learning process.

2nd point, I need the car to turn in better in the corners. I never had the car hopping at all in the past, however I could not say what the koni spring rates were.
Usually the car drifted a little sideways because I'm on the brakes really hard or if I'm hard on the gas out of a corner. I mean really hard on the gas. At this point I should say to all, dont back off if it slides a little, it usually comes round if you keep your foot down.

The guys watching me at the start told me the car was way too soft at the start, always sitting down too much. In the wet even with 4x4 the fronts would slip too easily, then of course the rear.

I was going to go for a two sets of springs.

wet,
front 500
rear 375

dry you know already.

Maik, I will try to remember and let you know the outcome in 4 weeks.

kenny.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Kenny,
No probs, I would hasten to add that mine is a 1400kg road car, but gets used to excess on track / Nurburgring (in fact we're there on May 20-23rd, so if you want a ride round, you know where to find me ), but I doubt if you brake harder or later than I do (although you are probably a better drive) .

The reason why your car understeers (or any Cossie for that matter) is due to the different roll centres that the front and rear OE suspension set up has. This means that the rear is always trying to push the front wide . Fitting harder springs will NOT rectify this. The only way to do this is to fit a different (6°) rear beam, which removes this trait, as well as allowing you to dial out the inherent camber and toe-out problems that are caused by the standard rear beam.

Personally I see your wet settings being even too hard for the dry , but I use Dunlop Super-sport Race tyres and not full slicks.

Do you know what geometry settings you are running or corner weights etc?

kennyA

I bought a new rear beam from MSport, but its an original. (I bent the previous one).
with the ledas fitted I have lifted the ride height compared to the konis, the rear camber doesn't look too negative although its not been measured yet.

The car is about 1200 Kilos now. It will be checked next week at DEKRA. I think at the mo its,
front 350 / 350 approx
rear 250 / 250 approx.



I need to try to get this down to 1080 Kilo to be competative.
Example of competition,
an ex DTM car, 5Ltr V8, 550ps.
Escort cossie, 450ps, currently 1050 Kilo.
Lancia Integr 450 ps.
(note, one escort from Austria has 740ps. 0 - 100kmh, 3 secs. 0 - 200kmh 7.2 secs. what chance have I).

I like the Idea of Nordschleif, its only 300 miles from me.

I hope the missus doesn't read this.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Kenny,
I've just spoken to LEDA and they're going to revalve my rear dampers so I have a wider range of adjustment, as they feel this would be better than going any lower than the current spring rate . I should have this done before the 20th May .

So what engine / brake set up do you have?

kennyA

Hi

The car is still being modified, hopefully its ready for April 30th.

So far.

Modified small turbo, 360 deg bearing, overhauled every 12 events. (400Km = 1 season).
Non standard actuator. No lag.
EECIV management + Suhe Motorsport ECU piggy back.
Only 290 - 300ps at 5700rpm. BUT dynoed 450Nm at 3280rpm.
WRC head gasket + stud and nut kit.
K&N in original housing, modified intake.
Mongoose, rear box out, HJS WRC Kat in.
Uprated high flow fuel pump + pressure reg.
Leda coilovers + Gas units. fully rose jointed.
TAS top mounts.
Powerflex bushes.
Forge header tank - water.
Cooling water removed from turbo.
(will build in a Temp sensor and gauge up to 1000 deg).
Rear beam, no rubber, solid aluminium machined inserts.
AP 330mm 4 pots up front. ABS off.
Fronts on rear + Hyd handbrake.
8J x 17 E15 MO's with 230/620 x 17 Avon Slicks.
Totally stripped, only 1 race seat + 6 point harness.
Bolt in Roll Cage.
Dry cell battery mounted behind driver.
GGR 2 port oil breather system.
Front fogs removed.
OMP Steering wheel.
Castrol RS 10/60

Weight = 1180 - 1200Kg. Target 1050Kg.

Waiting for RS500 intercooler.

Way too little power, want more power. Dont want Lag.
Need better boost gauge.

I need more money. I definately hope my wife doesn't read this.

Kenny.

kennyA

Forgot to say,
Original diffs, front and rear, but I believe the MT75 has been shot peened.

Sachs race clutch, christ it bites.
I'm worried about the running gear, you should see my starts.















More photos actually racing soon.