I think i have an air leak???how can i tell???
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I think i have an air leak???how can i tell???
Hello all
How can i tell if i have an air leak and where on earth would i begin to check for one??
The reason i ask is when driving along and not using the turbo my centre pod boost gauge sits at 0 instead of the -0.6 resting on the stop, whereas my friends (stundies) sits on the stop when driving along , also when i first start the car it rises up to 2k+ fast idling for about 30 seconds or so then settles to a nice idle level. It also revs slightly higher than it should changing from 1st to second and only revs normally when clutch fully out or when sat completely still????
My car has always done this i thought it was normal but having seen my friends sit at -0.6 now im not so sure
As always any help appreciated
Many Thanks
Martin
How can i tell if i have an air leak and where on earth would i begin to check for one??
The reason i ask is when driving along and not using the turbo my centre pod boost gauge sits at 0 instead of the -0.6 resting on the stop, whereas my friends (stundies) sits on the stop when driving along , also when i first start the car it rises up to 2k+ fast idling for about 30 seconds or so then settles to a nice idle level. It also revs slightly higher than it should changing from 1st to second and only revs normally when clutch fully out or when sat completely still????
My car has always done this i thought it was normal but having seen my friends sit at -0.6 now im not so sure
As always any help appreciated
Many Thanks
Martin
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Originally Posted by AJC
yes, sounds right martin, get some one to sit in drivers seat nd watch the gauge,
then check all vac hoses, map sensor, inlet etc
i found one in mine behind map sensor, caused the car to boost funny.
probably one of the inlet ones seeing your inlet been of etc
then check all vac hoses, map sensor, inlet etc
i found one in mine behind map sensor, caused the car to boost funny.
probably one of the inlet ones seeing your inlet been of etc
L3 COS: yours should leak like a sponge then
Ryan : I doubt it mate!!!
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Give me a shout if you want me to help you to find it mucker, might give Demon Tweeks a miss on Saturday, could come round then to do some investigation if you wanna
#7
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hose clamps can also be a problem too so check them too matey i'm off to buy some more milakor clamps tomorrow how sad am i...
probably something silly
probably something silly
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#8
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
the easiest way to find the air leak..is to spray carburetor cleaner on different parts of the engine..where it sucks air..and check if the idle is rising when you spray...for an example spray around the inlet manifold..or around hose connections
good luck mate
good luck mate
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get a small bore tube and stick it in your lug!! or use a doctors stethescope!!
I USE ONE WITH A PIECE OF BRAKE PIPE INSERTED INTO THE TUBE AND USE IT AS A PROBE-SUPRISING WHAT YOU CAN HEAR ESPECIALY AIR LEAKS-ALSO GOOD FOR TWIN 45/50'S FOR BALANCING AIR INTAKES
-OLD SKOOL STUFFS IS STILL THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GURU7001/2
I USE ONE WITH A PIECE OF BRAKE PIPE INSERTED INTO THE TUBE AND USE IT AS A PROBE-SUPRISING WHAT YOU CAN HEAR ESPECIALY AIR LEAKS-ALSO GOOD FOR TWIN 45/50'S FOR BALANCING AIR INTAKES
-OLD SKOOL STUFFS IS STILL THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GURU7001/2
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get a small bore tube and stick it in your lug!! or use a doctors stethescope!!
I USE ONE WITH A PIECE OF BRAKE PIPE INSERTED INTO THE TUBE AND USE IT AS A PROBE-SUPRISING WHAT YOU CAN HEAR ESPECIALY AIR LEAKS-ALSO GOOD FOR TWIN 45/50'S FOR BALANCING AIR INTAKES
-OLD SKOOL STUFFS IS STILL THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GURU7001/2
I USE ONE WITH A PIECE OF BRAKE PIPE INSERTED INTO THE TUBE AND USE IT AS A PROBE-SUPRISING WHAT YOU CAN HEAR ESPECIALY AIR LEAKS-ALSO GOOD FOR TWIN 45/50'S FOR BALANCING AIR INTAKES
-OLD SKOOL STUFFS IS STILL THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GURU7001/2
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Originally Posted by AJC
redrsmk5
dont pull them of martin, as that will definately give an air leak and wont help find it,
listen best you can for an air leak, use the back of your hand where hairs are to try feel it, or alternative, top lip is a good one
so you can kiss your engine
dont pull them of martin, as that will definately give an air leak and wont help find it,
listen best you can for an air leak, use the back of your hand where hairs are to try feel it, or alternative, top lip is a good one
so you can kiss your engine
Thanks everyone else
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Originally Posted by lowman
the easiest way to find the air leak..is to spray carburetor cleaner on different parts of the engine..where it sucks air..and check if the idle is rising when you spray...for an example spray around the inlet manifold..or around hose connections
good luck mate
good luck mate
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Ok guys,ive dug out my boost valve i bought late last year from fleebay which has a good vac and 20psi boost on it, where can i "T" into to get a good true reading on this as the car doesnt go into the broken lines on the standard boost pod hardly at all, driving it to and from the pod wasnt as rewarding as it should be and i feel it has so much more to offer, so i want to see what PSI its running after ive found this air leak or will the airleak make it have this performance issue?????
Thanks
Martin
Thanks
Martin
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Originally Posted by AJC
remove banana pod clocks and tee of the standard pipe to boost guage,
that way it is still going to work both of them, very simple to remove
that way it is still going to work both of them, very simple to remove
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Hi all,bit of an update and help required from the findings please
Ive checked bloody everywhere for the air leak and i cannot find it .Ive tightened all inlet bolts and nuts, new gasket on iscv,cleaned iscv out, and car still high idles through low gear changes and idles high from first start up
Is it possible that when the previous owner had Stu@MSD live map it that the chip or setup would make the air be available when it probably shouldnt???
Anyway i tried the boost gauge today (only a 20psi one) and in 3rd gear it peaked at 14 psi then in 4th gear (the best gear apparently) 15psi. Vacuum on the gauge was showing 10 not 0.....is this right???
Surely i should have more than that with my spec !!! Im tempted to give the actuator a full turn tomorrow but am concerned in doing that incase i really do have an air leak....is it safe to do this or could it detonate????
What PSI do other stage 1s peak at or are running??
I have a high pressure fuel pump, Mongoose exhaust, PPP8 plugs, Group A Cone filter, -31 Forge actuator, Collins 305 chip, 60mm rs 500 cooler, T25 turbo which has no play.
Sorry to ask so many questions but im unsure on setups etc, will take em apart all day long Thanks in advance for any help given
Martin
Ive checked bloody everywhere for the air leak and i cannot find it .Ive tightened all inlet bolts and nuts, new gasket on iscv,cleaned iscv out, and car still high idles through low gear changes and idles high from first start up
Is it possible that when the previous owner had Stu@MSD live map it that the chip or setup would make the air be available when it probably shouldnt???
Anyway i tried the boost gauge today (only a 20psi one) and in 3rd gear it peaked at 14 psi then in 4th gear (the best gear apparently) 15psi. Vacuum on the gauge was showing 10 not 0.....is this right???
Surely i should have more than that with my spec !!! Im tempted to give the actuator a full turn tomorrow but am concerned in doing that incase i really do have an air leak....is it safe to do this or could it detonate????
What PSI do other stage 1s peak at or are running??
I have a high pressure fuel pump, Mongoose exhaust, PPP8 plugs, Group A Cone filter, -31 Forge actuator, Collins 305 chip, 60mm rs 500 cooler, T25 turbo which has no play.
Sorry to ask so many questions but im unsure on setups etc, will take em apart all day long Thanks in advance for any help given
Martin
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
have you checked vaccuum pipes/fittings at bulkhead end of manifold,and the t piece on the inside of the manifold near the oil breather?
Its so hard listening for an air leak as all i can hear is the engine but will try again today
Today im gonna try upping the boost a bit anyway as 15psi for my spec is a bit poor so will let you know later how that goes.
MATCOS: so do i mate
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
what hose have you blocked off? have you checked the boost guage hose? from manifold to back of guage itself? im sure it tees into something on the small t model
Anyway the gauge dropped slightly today instead of being at 0 when driving its a third of way to -0.6 getting there but fook knows what i did to get it down that bit So i gave the actuator a full turn today, test run proved fine and no detonation, so another full turn saw it perform even better,checked all plugs and lovely brown colour after this run so safe to run at new setting holding 17psi now in 4th gear and 18psi in third
Goes really well now so am very happy but will get car booked in with Stu @ msd soon for full setup just to be sure
Thanks for all posts, great help as ever from all
MArtin
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
dont blank off the fuel tank breather , i should reconnect it,just make sure the non ret valve is still fitted
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
i should reconnect it back into manifold, have you checked your dump valve? make sure its sealing properly and not sucking in air? could also be losing boost pressure if its dodgy?
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Originally Posted by Paul Ripley
Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
i should reconnect it back into manifold, have you checked your dump valve? make sure its sealing properly and not sucking in air? could also be losing boost pressure if its dodgy?
Blank what off though the dump valve or the vapour pipe back to inlet manifold??????
#30
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just reading yr post martin,and the guys took the words out my mouth right at the last post!!
i had a problem once on an rs turbo,couldnt stop it pinking,changed absolutely everything (literally) even the wiring loom,and in the end it was the dump valve leaking i know you have a slightly different problem but worth checking or blanking off as suggested..
i had a problem once on an rs turbo,couldnt stop it pinking,changed absolutely everything (literally) even the wiring loom,and in the end it was the dump valve leaking i know you have a slightly different problem but worth checking or blanking off as suggested..
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Originally Posted by L3 COS
just reading yr post martin,and the guys took the words out my mouth right at the last post!!
i had a problem once on an rs turbo,couldnt stop it pinking,changed absolutely everything (literally) even the wiring loom,and in the end it was the dump valve leaking i know you have a slightly different problem but worth checking or blanking off as suggested..
i had a problem once on an rs turbo,couldnt stop it pinking,changed absolutely everything (literally) even the wiring loom,and in the end it was the dump valve leaking i know you have a slightly different problem but worth checking or blanking off as suggested..
Wastegate sounded mint through the big filter too, but dont feel safe running the car without the dump valve TBH.
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Originally Posted by redrsmk5
Originally Posted by Paul Ripley
Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
i should reconnect it back into manifold, have you checked your dump valve? make sure its sealing properly and not sucking in air? could also be losing boost pressure if its dodgy?
Blank what off though the dump valve or the vapour pipe back to inlet manifold??????
#33
i know is probs an old topic, but i work on the engines at mytravel aircraft engineering at manchester. And wen we fit new parts we spray them with a white developer, then if there is any air leaking from certain valves or clamps etc it turns the devoloper to like a white dust cloud, so u can quickly see where its coming from. I will check the item tonight in work and then post it up
it may not be handy to use on this occasion, but its handy for others who might be experiencing similar faults
it may not be handy to use on this occasion, but its handy for others who might be experiencing similar faults
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
did you sort this?
But........... i will be reconnecting this to the inlet manifold . I found the old T piece from the original breather system, i just need to figure out how to properly blank off the other side of the T piece somehow.
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
prob be easier to buy another 90 degree one instead, 1/8 npt thread,one more thought did you use any studlock or similar on your throttle bracket bolts when you bolted it back on the inlet manifold? as it could be leaking air around those joints
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USE A STETHERSCOPE (DOCTORS TYPE) ANY AIR LEEK IS MAGNIFIED SO LOUD YOU CANNOT HELP MISS IT----SNAP ON DO THEM!! HANDY FOR BALANCING TWIN 40S ETC ASWELL----------HAIRS ON THEBACK OF YOUR HAND!!!HA-HA-HA --------YOU A GORRILLA THEN-
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haha yeah right, my dad takes the piss enough as it is without me wearing a stethoscope,.......... might try and borrow one then try it when he goes out