I know that lamar69er has a post on here about roughly the same thing but im running out of things to check and dont want to hijack his post. The car runs fine from start up and give it ten minutes then blast away no probs. Cruse for a while and then it will missfire when you try to take it above 10psi. Really scratching my head now

Things i have done.

Phase sensor checked and gapped
TDC sensor cleaned and gapped
Bottom pully pick ups cleaned
New Rotor Arm and Cap
New HT Lead
New GP-A coil fitted
New Blue water sensor
New Brown sensor on Plenum
New Denso IK31 plugs
New 3 bar
New -31
New Plug Leads from MSD

Funny how it only dose this once its been running for a while.

Anyone any ideas??

Thanks.

 

fuel pump?

Have you checked all your soldered connections where the multiplugs were, for continuity?

 

run an autodiag when this happen before stopping the engine.. maybe a default in a plug or within the loom?

 

Damo,

Was thinking the fuel pump but it ran fine before. Might be the next thing to change out though

Multi plugs are still there as they were only unpluged to clean the inner wing.

july1

Dont have the facilities to do that im affraid M8. Would need to book it into the local Ford Dealership and i dont really trust them with the car.

 

well the 'facilities' requiered are a paper clip and a LED with a 1MOhm resistor.. not much I think!
Try a search over this forum you should find more about the autodiag
If you can't a ford dealer will do it for you but keep in mind that switching the engine off will clear the default values so try to book an appointment and mind to warm the car up before going there

 

almost sounds like my problem tbh toughy i have a new fuel pump going in, but as said once the pump is in if i still suffer i think we will both need to have a diag check

 

Its a bit of a pain because it will drive around all day at a decent speed ect but as soon as its pushed to go above 10 psi it missfires. Anoying thing is that when its cooler i.e. only been running for 10-15mins it runs perfect, loads of boost and not a missfire in sight

Might get a pump ordered up tomorrow and chuck that in over the weekend and see what happens.

 

fcuk me DITO mine is the same!!!!!!!!

altho mine is idling funny atm too since its been playing up

 

The Idle is generally ok but now and then it sounds like its got a little stutter

 

What power?
What car?
What Denso's are you using?

 

Car is a Big turbo Escort

Running a GGR chip with Dark greens so around the 300 mark i would think although it feels pi$h slow

Densos are Iridium IK31's

 

Plugs are ok but you should close gaps to 0.8 perhaps.
Leads ok?

 

I'd say check plug gaps as it sounds like your boost is putting out your spark!
Worth a try anyway 0.7/0.8 at a guess??

 

You liar! I've been asking if yours is boost-related and you said not!

 

Will double check the plug gaps tonight.

 

As above check plug gaps, BUT if you still have the multi[plugs on Engine loom, they REALLY HAVE to go..

 

You mean the two big ones near the coil??
I've heard it was better to sold everthing but they are quite usefull when you take the head out...

 

YUP bin them... solder all joints cutting out all corroded loom

When you take the head off, just unplug all the sensors beforehand, its not the end of the world

 

thats them the 2 big ones near teh coil yes , they do need chopping out, it takes an extra 5 mins at most to remove the rest of the loom when you need to do the head, these connector can and do caouse all sorts of problems, ive donem head wtice with them removed and its not a problem at all.

 

Well I will consider this then...

 

Do you have a dump valve ?

Have you been adjusting it recently ?

 

No Dump valve fitted

Damo,

These ones, i will get my local auto spark to come round and chop them out for me

 

Yeah those, but he has to replace any corroded wire too

 

its not a techincal job as such, just take your time and be methodical, ie do one matching pair of wires at a time, as as damo says, you may have to cut back to find good wire to solder onto, as the corrosion runs back up the copper inside, you may have to add a short lenght onto soem of them.

i put some ashesive lined heat shink over the wire first, slid it back then soldered the wires together, slid the heat shrink back over the joint and sealed it, dont use insulattion tape, it will et oil and moisture in and will look tatty in time. do it properly - do it once

 

you should use Self-Amalgamating Tape.. far better than Heat Shrinkable Tubing...

 

hmm, i dont think you can beat the adhesive lined heat shink tubing, on each individual core, then over the whole lot, 110% better than factory..

 

when i cut mine out i took every single terminal out the plugs afterwards to check them,and every one was perfect,not the slightest sign of corrosion anywhere mind you it has led a sheltered life

 

OK,

update,

I have closed the gaps on the plugs and it never made any odds

Have also replaced the leads for a new set from MSD and again no change

Blue ETC sensor will be changed out for the old one tonight to check its not a dodgy one.

Next step if the sensor dont work will be a replacement loom from Ryan as i've heard nothing but good reports on them and a new fuel pump, something like an 023. (once i get some cash together)

 

downer i tried ford and they want £80 to run a diag on my car which i think is a touch steep??

but i have been lead to be told mine is a sensor or electrical more likely the first, but i am going to fit a 023 anyway

i have a 003 with the fitting kit going spare if you interest tho mate???

Ad

 

may take you up on that M8 can you PM me a price please?

 

I would solder the connectors

 

just outta interest i had a similiar problem this week with mine and i ended up find out the the live feed to the ecu (pin 20) was breaking down due to fault fuse box & old worn wiring so have replaced fusebox and replaced live feed to ecu with a new wire on it's on seperate fuse no problem now is 100% solved

I would just double check ya voltage at (pin 20) on the ecu tis a easy job u might be suprised at the hugh voltage drop

this main feed to ecu also triggers the fuel pump relay and if it dodgy it can be causing the fuel relay to cut in and out thus causng ya misfire on boost when engine is warm.

might be worth a look at RsToughy

 

i had the same problem with mine a while ago, replaced loads, still had a miss then i check the fuel pump wiring and i was melted so i re-wiring the fuel pump with a new reply. cars perfect now

 

Damo V

Will get that done after Cumbria this weekend


silky16v

Whats the voltage at the pin meant to be M8? will check this out tomorrow night
will have a BS with you on Sun as im on the PF stand as well


rsdene

Where was it melted M8?
P.S. havent forgotten about the hoses M8, just been up to my tit$ trying to sort this out


Tonights work

Swaped over the Blue temp sensor tonight and also fitted another MAP sensor. Nothing has changed

To top it off i caught the lower part of the N/S hockey Stick with the front of my trainer and broke about a 4" section out of it

 

i gonna go see a bloke tomorrow about mine toughy he's gonna slap mine on the diag for cheap as he is a customer of mine ... will let you know of the outcome!!!

 

hope its an easy fix

 

hi mate, not to worries about the hoses. just sort it out when you have a spare 5mins

right where the number plate light goes through the boot to the bumper there are two more wire, a black wire with red trace and a brown one. these are the pump wires. i was getting a 1.5 volt drop from the battery to the plug @ the back of the car. i'd have a look @ the plug to. once i had replaced all the wiring with a new relay there was no drop hope this helps mate. pm me if u need anymore info. regards dene

 

voltage at the pin now on mine is 13.37v

And at the fuel pump i'll tell you in about an hours time once i've checked it

 

my fault on boost turned out to be the boost solonoid thingy... (amal valve) with it dissconected the car boosts up fine! there £130 from Woodford thou, and not available from ford! Im going to get a boost controller or air to air injectors instead, unless anyones got one floating about for sale?

 

Lamar,

Was that fault all the time or intermittent?