mk2 rs2000 cosworth build new everything.updated 09.05.10
#242
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From: essex
fuck me been in to try and get the braided brake lines
£335 just for lines and fittings fuck me i was thinking £150 to £200 max lol
i think i was a fucking mile off lol
still i need them to finish the car and there no point cutting corners now
and as like the fuel lines they are the most important parts of the build
£335 just for lines and fittings fuck me i was thinking £150 to £200 max lol
i think i was a fucking mile off lol
still i need them to finish the car and there no point cutting corners now
and as like the fuel lines they are the most important parts of the build
#244
paul,dont use those copper brake lines on the axle directly in to the rear calipers ffs m8.those brake calipers move when you use the brakes and they will wear and snap the copper piping m8.make an "L" shaped bracket on the axle brace for the copper pipe to go in to then use a bulkhead type conector and run braided hose to the caliper.please dont use the copper in to the rear caliper tho m8
#246
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From: essex
after weeks of trying to think of the best way to do the water hose
the water system is now almost done all hoses are in place and done up
but now just waiting for rad cap and a hose adaptor so i can fit a take off fitting to run a water hose from turbo the rad
i also sorted out the rear firewall so that i can still remove shocks with out having to remove it
i have to gut doing the wiring tomorrow so it will be ready and on the button to start
i will have have to water and oil everything before i start.
and put pet in the car as well
just leaving the brake lines
i still dont know what to do with the brake lines
braided all the way
or
copper and braided at the ends
i know braided looks better and im getting 50 / 50 on what one to use
as racers and track cars braided and road users copper.
the water system is now almost done all hoses are in place and done up
but now just waiting for rad cap and a hose adaptor so i can fit a take off fitting to run a water hose from turbo the rad
i also sorted out the rear firewall so that i can still remove shocks with out having to remove it
i have to gut doing the wiring tomorrow so it will be ready and on the button to start
i will have have to water and oil everything before i start.
and put pet in the car as well
just leaving the brake lines
i still dont know what to do with the brake lines
braided all the way
or
copper and braided at the ends
i know braided looks better and im getting 50 / 50 on what one to use
as racers and track cars braided and road users copper.
#248
I used braided from the rear bulkhead fittings to the rear axle, solid on the axle to both sides, flexi pipes to my rear calipers, solid from the front bulkhead along to the inner wing couplings and then flexi lines from the inner wings to the front calipers so pretty much as you suggest apart from on the front.
Last edited by CozzyKing; 24-03-2010 at 04:41 PM.
#249
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From: essex
plans for to day
get the car running for the first time
day started with wiring the rear lights DONE
wire up the twin fuel pumps DONE
rewire the engine ALMOST DONE
run new power lead though out the whole car DONE
wire up headlights and sports with new bolds DONE
make sure all water hoses are done and tight DONE
now the run parts
oil the engine DONE
oil gearbox DONE
oil diff DONE
water in the rad DONE
engine oil done and no leak SPOT ON
gearbox oil done and no leaks just a little oil from over filling
diff oil done happy days then drip drip drip head in hands
i have a leak from the diff prop end
just have to find out how to change the oil seal and if its just that i have to change or is there more to it ???
added water to the rad and drip drip drip dry everything off and still drip drip drip looks like its coming from water pump but i strip the whole engine and replaced every gasket for new uprated ones
and even uses gasket sealant on the water pump???????
so i didnt get time to finish off the wiring today ;-(
get the car running for the first time
day started with wiring the rear lights DONE
wire up the twin fuel pumps DONE
rewire the engine ALMOST DONE
run new power lead though out the whole car DONE
wire up headlights and sports with new bolds DONE
make sure all water hoses are done and tight DONE
now the run parts
oil the engine DONE
oil gearbox DONE
oil diff DONE
water in the rad DONE
engine oil done and no leak SPOT ON
gearbox oil done and no leaks just a little oil from over filling
diff oil done happy days then drip drip drip head in hands
i have a leak from the diff prop end
just have to find out how to change the oil seal and if its just that i have to change or is there more to it ???
added water to the rad and drip drip drip dry everything off and still drip drip drip looks like its coming from water pump but i strip the whole engine and replaced every gasket for new uprated ones
and even uses gasket sealant on the water pump???????
so i didnt get time to finish off the wiring today ;-(
#250
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From: essex
it is trying me lol
going to ask work today if i can change the rear axle seal with out having to strip the whole diff down
still i may still change it to a lsd yet lol
been told it is normal for the water to leak out of the water pump whens been sitting for a long time
when i got the engine it was new and had only been bench tested at ticford ford,there was still oil and water still in the engine with no leaks
i wanted to paint the block so striped the whole engine down and replace all seals
and it has sat for 8months with no water in it. was told once it has been started and run for a while it will be fine fingers crossed
going to ask work today if i can change the rear axle seal with out having to strip the whole diff down
still i may still change it to a lsd yet lol
been told it is normal for the water to leak out of the water pump whens been sitting for a long time
when i got the engine it was new and had only been bench tested at ticford ford,there was still oil and water still in the engine with no leaks
i wanted to paint the block so striped the whole engine down and replace all seals
and it has sat for 8months with no water in it. was told once it has been started and run for a while it will be fine fingers crossed
#251
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From: essex
more bits done to the car
fitted the hose adaptor to get the return from the turbo
used a friends rad car at still waiting for my one to come
fitted temp turbo hose untill i can get a blue one to match
fitted the warning bulbs to the dash
wired up the rear lights and fuel pumps
wired up the engine
fitted the hose adaptor to get the return from the turbo
used a friends rad car at still waiting for my one to come
fitted temp turbo hose untill i can get a blue one to match
fitted the warning bulbs to the dash
wired up the rear lights and fuel pumps
wired up the engine
#259
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From: essex
Just put in justspeedo in the apps lol
i have tried 6 different ones and this is the best
I'm going to get a tomtom GPRS booster
so I don't lose the signal lol
Y pay £500 for digital dash when the Iphone can do it all lol
i have tried 6 different ones and this is the best
I'm going to get a tomtom GPRS booster
so I don't lose the signal lol
Y pay £500 for digital dash when the Iphone can do it all lol
#260
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From: essex
Just finished ordering the rest of the bits to finish lol
Brake lines will be here Wednesday so should have them fitted by Friday I'm hoping
Anyone know how to put aeroquip hose and fitting together???
Brake lines will be here Wednesday so should have them fitted by Friday I'm hoping
Anyone know how to put aeroquip hose and fitting together???
#263
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From: essex
ok so far
spent 4hours last night making up the braided brake hoses
then today was spent fitting them
also got the floor mounted pedal box sorted and finally got the throttle cable fitted
gear know fitted just need to get a gear gaiter
here are some pictures
spent 4hours last night making up the braided brake hoses
then today was spent fitting them
also got the floor mounted pedal box sorted and finally got the throttle cable fitted
gear know fitted just need to get a gear gaiter
here are some pictures
Last edited by fostersice; 04-04-2010 at 01:16 PM.
#265
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From: essex
Bleeding the brakes tomorrow
been working on the lights tonight
and booked it in for a mot for the end of the month I want to drive it on my birthday lol
29,4,2010 so the push is on lol
been working on the lights tonight
and booked it in for a mot for the end of the month I want to drive it on my birthday lol
29,4,2010 so the push is on lol
#268
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From: essex
having a really bad day
got up early this morning to bleed the front ,rear brakes and the hydraulic clutch.
all parts being new i should have no problems right well apart from it was me making up the brake line and it was my first time doing it
filled up the brake res on all 3
no leaks
started pumping the brakes and we have a leak from the rear calipers
had a look round and it leaking from the banjos
the copper washers are to thin so i doubled up on the washers and the drivers side stops but pas side still leaks undo the banjo bolt and it snaps
so i nut and bolt the banjo so i can do the fronts
move onto the fronts and no problems job done happy days
cant finish the rears as no where is open so move onto the clutch
so we start and lot of air keep pumping and more air and more and more
then drip drip drip out of the bell housing
so now i start getting the hump
find a mirror and get to have a look inside and its leaking from the braided clutch hose looks like it needs a slight turn on the nut do you think i can get in there not a chance
so all in al not a good day off
still better then it happening once its on the road.
now i have to sort out how to get into the bell housing though the clutch folk hole and get a turn on a 13m nut
and what to do about the calipers
should i change the banjos to something else do they do a m10 x 1.00 swivel end for braided hose?
or just try and get thicker washers??????
got up early this morning to bleed the front ,rear brakes and the hydraulic clutch.
all parts being new i should have no problems right well apart from it was me making up the brake line and it was my first time doing it
filled up the brake res on all 3
no leaks
started pumping the brakes and we have a leak from the rear calipers
had a look round and it leaking from the banjos
the copper washers are to thin so i doubled up on the washers and the drivers side stops but pas side still leaks undo the banjo bolt and it snaps
so i nut and bolt the banjo so i can do the fronts
move onto the fronts and no problems job done happy days
cant finish the rears as no where is open so move onto the clutch
so we start and lot of air keep pumping and more air and more and more
then drip drip drip out of the bell housing
so now i start getting the hump
find a mirror and get to have a look inside and its leaking from the braided clutch hose looks like it needs a slight turn on the nut do you think i can get in there not a chance
so all in al not a good day off
still better then it happening once its on the road.
now i have to sort out how to get into the bell housing though the clutch folk hole and get a turn on a 13m nut
and what to do about the calipers
should i change the banjos to something else do they do a m10 x 1.00 swivel end for braided hose?
or just try and get thicker washers??????
#269
Dont worry m8 it normal to have problems i dont think i know anybody who didnt have teething problems doing the same conversion, theres always something that dont go right,you will sort it in the end
#273
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From: essex
why is it the final 1% seems to take forever
i only had silly bits left but they are taking longer to do
list of things left to do
sort out rear brake banjo leak ( getting new dowty washers)
sort out clutch leak ( need a crowsfoot wrench)
replace steering boots
replace atlas front pinion seal
wire up the gagues
fill up the fuel tank
fit pas seat
fit door cards (need to fit sound proofing first) dont see the point but beed told i should)
fit air filter to turbo ( need to fine a way to do this but its not stopping it from going though the mot)
then i think that is it
i only had silly bits left but they are taking longer to do
list of things left to do
sort out rear brake banjo leak ( getting new dowty washers)
sort out clutch leak ( need a crowsfoot wrench)
replace steering boots
replace atlas front pinion seal
wire up the gagues
fill up the fuel tank
fit pas seat
fit door cards (need to fit sound proofing first) dont see the point but beed told i should)
fit air filter to turbo ( need to fine a way to do this but its not stopping it from going though the mot)
then i think that is it
#278
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From: essex
FUCK IT
the guy has finished the complete rewire £400
rush home and check everything and then fill the tank
start with a little and check bolts nothing great
so fill the whole tank jump in the car push the button and engine turns but dont start.
check the pumps are running and nothing
and then we fine the boot filling up with fuel
running around like nutters trying to one find the leak and trying to clean up the fuel and stop it
we fine one of the 044 pumps pissing fuel out of the end cap
got both pumps new but have been sitting in the but for the last 2months
i have emailed the guy so im now just waiting for the reply
god i am so sick if this lol
by brand new parts and still problems.
the guy has finished the complete rewire £400
rush home and check everything and then fill the tank
start with a little and check bolts nothing great
so fill the whole tank jump in the car push the button and engine turns but dont start.
check the pumps are running and nothing
and then we fine the boot filling up with fuel
running around like nutters trying to one find the leak and trying to clean up the fuel and stop it
we fine one of the 044 pumps pissing fuel out of the end cap
got both pumps new but have been sitting in the but for the last 2months
i have emailed the guy so im now just waiting for the reply
god i am so sick if this lol
by brand new parts and still problems.
#280
We all have what seem like major hassles nearing the end of the build but they are all more than worthwhile once we get to drive the things.