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ATB or GRIPPER ??? Which do you feel is best????

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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:23 AM
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Default ATB or GRIPPER ??? Which do you feel is best????

as it sounds not sure whether to get an ATB or GRIPPER for my 2wd saph..... so just looking for some help to see which is best for me / which is stronger / most fun etc
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 08:15 AM
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have a look here


https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...asc&highlight=
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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cheers mate
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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i run a Atb on rear with out a problem, and a Dome platted diff on front, but think its not setup for tarmac use, so make rear end unstabble off throttle.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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i was advised against a grippe went quaife atb and couldnt of been happier the car was smoother and u could feel how much stronger it was a nd as for fun woohoo cos it s atb it proper snakes as it distributes the power best money i ever spent although was expensive do it im sure you will be happy
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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why were you advises against a gripper??? how does the ATB drive compared to a Gripper?
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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A proper plated diff like a gripper will be a lot more fun than an ATB if you wanna slide the ass out all over the shop.

A lot of it depends how the diff is set up though, sooo many vairables, how much it locks, when it locks, how sudden it does, and so on.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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is a gripper a 2 way diff? and can be adjusted for lock on accel and decel...... e.g. 70% acc 30% decell ....etc

And also is it a diff out job to adjust? and how often do they need re-adjusting??

I like the sound of it sliding the ass out all over the shop if i want to!!

But would an ATB be the same or does it give even greater traction and thus harder to slide?
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 06:15 PM
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up
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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1way, 1.5way, and 2way, are just vague descriptions of how and when they lock.

2way locks hard under accel and braking.
1.5way locks hard under accel and less so under braking.
1way locks hard under accel and nowt much under braking.

The reason ATBs are crap for drifting is due to how they work not how much grip they got, they wont have any more grip than a good plated diff anyhow.

For a normal car a diff that locks a lot under accel and less but still some under deccel (so a 1.5way) sounds ok i guess, speak to someone like Bara or CTS and explain what you want and see what they say.

Need regular servicing, but dunno about maintainance, i got a 3way (ie welded ) so not got that problem so not looked into it yet.

ATBs deffo need less work tho, and thats what il prob use in the GTR as thats not a car im gonna be hanging the ass out, thats what the Sx is for
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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so bottom line for a 2wd cosworth with 340bhp - 400bhp (at some point maybe) will be sprinting it this year ..... and enjoys sliding round things which is best.... in your opinion (everyones opinion)
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:31 PM
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IMO a 1.5way plated diff of some sort, like said.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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thanks mate ... all help greatley recieved!!!
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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the gripper wil be spot on for what you want pal - as for the atb - hated it - no where near as much grip as with the plated
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 11:54 PM
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i do believe as sed, a well speced plated diff thats well looked after is the best, but things do wear in them.

a ATB is a more of a bullet proof setup, that we only need the sort of maintanance of a std diff.

either way i believe both the be as stronge as each other, just the plated diff can be made for you, your drivin and your car.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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what sort of power/torque will a gripper take then? would it handle a generous 500+ of both and a bit of anti-lag? ?
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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a easy 500bhp,

Steve scotts old focus had a gripper rear diff, and he run late 10's on road slicks by memory, and 500bhp + nos.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 07:44 AM
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Totally agree with Mark gripper all the way no messing about
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:28 AM
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Thanks everyone

A gripper its going to have to be then!!!!!!
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by palmer3914
Thanks everyone

A gripper its going to have to be then!!!!!!
Hi Mate


If you are going to use the " gripper "on the rd then you must ask them to fit the road plates inside "not the racing plates " because the noise from the racing plates is horrible in a rd car

cheers marco
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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any ideas how much the gripper is likely to cost?? cheers
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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up for gibbo's price question?
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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about Ł800-1000 all inc and built by memory, only Ł50-100 cheaper than a ATB built wen i looked into it last year.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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at that price its probably best to invest in a Zoo beam and 10.5 inch jag diff?? mega handling and an unpoppable diff , I know its and extra Ł1000 but got to be worth considering?
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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I've never heard of a plated or ATB diff spittin, unless it werent maintained.

But that is a option. or Zoo beam and a gripper/ATB for Ł1600 ish
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 10:33 PM
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i wish i think it will have to be the gripper!!!! and as far as those plates go ... are the race ones better than the road ones? or is it just a noise facter? as im stripping mine out with cage anyway for the sprints?
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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the plates are the same its the ramp angles that are 'use' specific. these NEED to be specified when purchased.

either way what ever you fit will be 100000000 times better than the std viscous
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 11:12 PM
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i love the way the gripper ( r+d diff from bernie at www.gearboxman.co.uk ) feels to drive in mine, bit gruesome pulling away with any lock on but the power delivery in a straight line makes it just that..."in a straight line"... rather than dropping down the camber of the road and stepping like the std one used to



std 7.5" casing machined to fit the unit

and they arent hp realted.......i was told any t34 engine cannot produce enough torque to break this kind of diff if serviced and maintained properly
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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Hi Mark


the problem that i had with mine , that Tom @ gripper set mine at 120 ftlbs of torque on the plates and he said that the ramp angles was done for rd spec a

belive me the plates shaterd inside of the unit and caused the crownwheel to break and vibrate

I have always had lsd 's set about 50/60/70 ftlbs for the rd as a progressive setting so it will let one wheel spin a bit bit quicker that the other when cornering

the noise form the diff from corning when it's set for full on racing is a real pain in the ass because as you know when your going around a bend at low speed or high speed the plates are tyring to break free but they can't because theres too much pressure on the plates and the noise is hurendous

My diff is back again at gripper and i did tell him that there was something wrong from day one when he re-built

Tom did say well "i can't belive it was set that much"

I said to Tom " we put a torque wrench on the but hub nut and it broke off at 120 ftlb's and i did it martins hadlands unit

I have never had one fail before and i still think it wouldn't have if he set it right in the first place


marco
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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the actual preload in the gripper is set by bevel washers that squash when you build the units together, this gives the pressure that is required on the plates, i dont know what the available plate/washer combos are available from tom, but ive built about 4 now and aside from when there brand new they are a bit clunky untill the plates 'bed in' as they are friction washers.

very strange that marco, did tom build it ? or was it someone else ? sounds like who ever built it fooked up a little !
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by markk
the actual preload in the gripper is set by bevel washers that squash when you build the units together, this gives the pressure that is required on the plates, i dont know what the available plate/washer combos are available from tom, but ive built about 4 now and aside from when there brand new they are a bit clunky untill the plates 'bed in' as they are friction washers.

very strange that marco, did tom build it ? or was it someone else ? sounds like who ever built it fooked up a little !

Hi Mark

yes Tom @ Gripper did re- build it




Originally Posted by markk
but ive built about 4 now and aside from when there brand new they are a bit clunky untill the plates 'bed in' as they are friction washers.
Mark

Exactly , they are noisey and first untill the plates bed in thats what we call rd setting ................but when TOM Re-built mine the nosie never went away and was even worse as the oil got hotter

it was hurendous I couldn't belive it when i got it back i knew something wasn't right and told him so and i honestly belive thats plates broke inside and fooked the crownwheel and the vibration that was coming from the diff was bad

i even said to him look Tom i'll bring the car over and you can hear it for youself

He has the diff at the min and as a good will guesture i gave him my spare diff for parts so if the crownwheel has gone atleast he has one there to fix it

Marco
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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thats very odd marco, there was a few from memory very early units that had noises and there was revised ramp plates and bevel washers, i know because i had one of the very very early 7" ford units in about 1997, and it was noisey , called him and just sent me the bits to repair/rectify it. was sorted after that.

i need to ring him soon for a front diff unit for mine
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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Hi Mark

when i took the diff back to him , his exact words was ,i can't belive thats theres 120ftbs before it breaks of

anyway i just put it down to an error of his thats all

i still wouldn't swap it for anything else tho unles another plated diff of some sort

marco
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