Got a problem with my car wondered if anyone here can help

After i got my turbo i had a lot of steering wheel shake. It was happening at higher speeds (60+) and during braking. Obviously the disks were warped, so i changed them. However, after the shake was still there at higher speeds. Anyway, had a new AP organic clutch put in, and the shake that was there on the straights had got a lot better (loose bolt somewhere?) but the disks seem to have warped themselves again (had noticed it had gradually come back, assuming its cos i didnt change the pads).

My question is does anyone else get this shake? the local boy down the street rekons i should replace the whole front end (rack, rods, bushes etc) but my local garage (who is very good) says theres nothing wrong with them and that its probably my wheels ( 17" 205 40) that ive got on there.

Should say too that ive noticed its hardly there on smoother motorways, but is very harsh on bumpy twisty mountain roads.

Cheers in advance

 

get the wheels balanced mate, you might have a buckled wheel.

 

could be steering column bushes cost only around a few quid

 

Any more info on the steering column bushes, got the same problem with mine?

 

i think we need some pics/diagrams on the steering bushes that alot of people are taling about

 

Its a common thing on the MK4's for the discs to warp, my Orion Turbo in my siggy had uprated Red Dot discs and pads and they warped too.

Im onto my cabby now, and cossie brakes, see if i can warp those fuckers

First things first, get your wheels checked for balancing, get your brakes sorted (new discs and pads), and then if its still there you know its something else, although i expect your problem wont be there anymore after doing this

 

Yea had the wheels balanced at the local garage, they say they balance fine, not buckled.

If i do the disks again, and STIIL got the problem, thats Ł100 gone to start with!!

Perhaps i should get an old set of RST wheels with crappy tires to test fault the wheels? maybe their the wrong fittment?

 

If theyre balanced fine and not buckled, thats the end of that with the wheels. As far as fitment goes, there is 2 variations with wheels, neither of which will affect the operation, the PCD is the spacing of the wheel bolts, obviously if thats wrong you won't get them on the car, and then theres offset, if thats wrong the wheels will rub either on the inner or outer arches, but again wont affect the drive (well apart from the scrubbage noise )

If i were you i would uprate the brakes, its a common thing, if your on a tight budget (you student lol ) get some cossie discs and some brackets to re-locate your standard callipers

 

first off, discs dont warp!,the webbing between them prevents this,technically what happens is the discs get hot ,and when you stop and sit with the brake on ,you squash a section of metal on the disc,this contracts ,and gives a pumping sensation to the pedal,caused by high spots on the disc,,so most discs that run cooling holes are better at preventing this,while grooved give a clean pad for better grip on the disc.

i think your wheels need balancing
or maybe a tyre change! deflex do the steering bushes,there a bastard to fit,i done mine,not much room to wield your spanners,pluss you get covered in shite,tip,go in at the wheel arches after removing the liners.

check your bearings too.

 

Are you 100% on that

 

if discs dont warp then whats the juddering when you brake ive been through 3 sets in a year all warped

 

Exactly my point!!! My discs on my orion now are warped, probably the most abvious thing about them being warped, is when you are braking very gently near stopping, you can feel the warped section go tight as it goes through the pads, until it hits it for the last time and stops suddenly, you know what i mean?

My steering wheel vibrates ah higher speeds to and i know the wheels are balanced theyve just been done, scary as fuck braking at anything over 70, and its slowly getting worse.

 

if you read my explanation you will understand!

they dont warp,they get hot-spots,as explained above, next time you get the discs off for a new set because of warping ! go get em skimmed if theres plenty of meat on em,by the way ,standard ford discs go off by the first set if traffic lights there that kak!,then again ive paid just under twenty quid for a set so what dyou expect!

get em on a spindle and see if you can spot the inner edge warping as you spin the disc then,it wont happen ,unless its been smacked with a sledgy or been in an accident.

you have to get decent discs,ebc,black diamond,tarox,hi-spec,red dot,etc.

 

I see, i thought at first you were saying they didn't go out of shape, but i agree with what your saying, its probably just as cheap to buy new discs than get them skimmed.

Ive had Red dot cross drilled and vented discs and pads, they warped aswell!

 

hmm,maybe time for bigger discs ,with bells and new calipers for your braking style then,what mileage do you get out of a set of good discs?are your calipers ok,the seals ok?

 

Well to be honest, the orion in the siggy (now scrapped) had the Red dots on it when i bought it, there were literally brand new, and ive got an orion im running around in now which doesnt get driven hard, but theyre getting quite bad,but they are old i can here the pads are nearly gone aswell so they have done well. My cabriolet the breaks were all shit and leaking, so its got cossie 2wd set up now, see if i can warp them fuckers

 

to be honest ive got 4wd calipers and 2wd discs and they have lasted me 9 months and still going downside would be dont go for redstuff pads by ebc as they take a while to warm up but might suit some who brake really hard

 

well ive got to laugh akito, you know a lot more than me, but mate the first thing i done was have ALL the wheels balanced.....im dull but im not that dull!!
As for tyres ive got P7000s all around.

Perhaps i just need to accept the fact i gota change the disks again, round by me the guys lathe cant accept the cossie disk so its Ł50 anyway for a skim!!

SURE it couldnt be a rack or something guys?
The wobble seems to be a lot worse on bumpy roads!!!!!!!

 

Well the rack is old, why not give it a service? Can only improve it!

 

okay people digged this out from rsowners club website but you have to be registered to read this. Basically this is what happened to my previous rst the thing just pissed me off so badly that i ended up selling it worst thing was on the day it got sold i put a second hand set of wheels on it and it was okay that car was jinxed or what felt well gutted

http://bbs.rsownersclub.co.uk/showth...heel+vibration

 

its ok putting new discs on,if you make sure the hoses,fluid and calipers are all in top condition,sticking pistons cause drag,enough to heat up your disc,only to give it a hot spot at the next lights.

make sure its all well,.

tip., ,when replacing the seals in your caliper,remove the hose,and the pads,now,the pistons will be set back,ahh,dont reach for the air hose, loosen the bleed nipple,and block the hose hole with a suitable threaded bolt(as not to damage the thread),and pump in the grease from your gun,this wil pump out the pistons ,ready for your new ons,lean out as much grease as you can then wash with warm soapy water ,before reconditioning your calipers,by painting,then new seals.

or just go to your motor factors,for around 85 quid,youll get as new .garranteed ,calipers as swapsees!

 

I wanted to clean up my 4pots before i put them on but i wasnt feeling brave enough to split them in half, what seals do they have between the halfs?

Cheers for the tip

 

there should be ,4 piston seals,4 dust seals and the o rings needed for your caliper type in the kit you get,all for reconditioning,per caliper,dont be tempted to mix old with new,

akrs1, i read your sad tale mate,did you do your calipers too? only got one page,whats happened now then?

c14kee, nah not dull mate,not patronising you,just a definate elimination process, were all here to learn and knowledge is good to learn, if you know what i know,the next time this comes up for someone ,and im not on ,you can help them,see,we all try our best!

 

Yea, what i mean is the calipers are in 2 pieces and you can unbolt them and split them in half.....i wondered what sealed the halfs together

 

akito-man yes i did change calipers and i was just thinking now even i really think its to do with wheels when steering starts shaking at high speeds depends on also how they are balanced on machine

 

ARKS1 i just had a good read through that thread on the RROC

very informative

Think i might take the car to the garage and give him a list of all the things to check. Fair play hes pretty good so if theres nothing wrong he will tell me.

I got a feeling its the wheels. Anyone got a spare set of RS rims they want to get rid of!!??

 

Thanks for the help too guys glad i got plenty of response on this cos its been frying my head.

 

just the slightest bit more info for you,,this might do it,,


this is a brain out situation ,but,here goes guys,

ive got bikes,motorbikes,5 in all, sports to goldwings,and tyres and stuff is big news as we rely on them totally,

now,when you get a new tyre,theres a red dot on the wall,this shows the fitter that this is the lightest part of a tyre,this then should inform him that this red dot should marry up against the valve,as the valve on a wheel is a heavy item,then when the tyre is inflated ,you can safely balance the whole item perfectly,yes you can still balance a tyre with the red dot unmatched,but it takes more lead,and can cause the tyre to oscilate gently at speed as two weights are forced around,not perfectly balanced,this could cause a warped disc affect,which on a whole is not good for anything,bearings seals ,parts etc,

im a picky bastard but whoever fits my tyres,that i pay for,and dosent match the dot up,gets to fit and balence them again free.

 

you fussy little wanker

 

akito-man: Someone YEARS ago told me about this and it made sense. A few years ago i was at a Pro-Tyre branch having 2 new tyres put on, and i asked the question whats the dot on the tyre for, and the bloke claimed something about it shows where the seam or join in the tyre was or something like that, and i said im led to believe its designed to go by the valve to aid balancing, but he claimed it wasnt.

Funny you should say it though, it always made sense in my head!

The next tyres i have fitted will also have the dot by valve

Just one question however: ive seen a couple of tyres with 2 dots in different places Do u take a 50/50 or phone a friend or something?

 

might contribute to a fatal accident,one day tho,the way this countries going.

clear concience,and no wobbles too!

 

the blue ones for the seam,or take a wish foundation or summit,red is the one,ie,red warning.

think the blue could be to do with silca content,ie racing compound rubber,

 

That makes 2 fussy little wankers then

 

pair of wankers

we need a ganga ,then well be a force,

wank force uk.!

that seventies cop programs on at nine .im off to view,got some old fords in it.good too!

 

Wank Force UK

Im gettin a sunstrip to support us

 

ive changed my profile ,for the wank force! change yours if your with it!

 

With you all the way

 

telly time,back after.

 

lol, have fun

 

life on mars was kewl.