Ive got a boost gauge where the trip computer goes at the mo, im going to buy one of the nomad gauge pods that go in place of the central heater vents, im thinking about putting a voltmeter,oil pressure and water temp gauges in, would these be a good choice or would a better trio be better?? suggestions please, by the way the cars putting out approx 230bhp from a 2l zvh motor.. thanx

 

im not sure what to suggest , but i would look at racetech myself as they do dual gauges....

 

so would voltmeter,water temp,oil pressure gauges be the best ones?

 

Oil pressure is probably the best gauge u could ever buy, volt meter is also very handy, personally instead of water temp i'd buy an air/fuel gauge, the factory water gauges arent the best but like everyones own car, they know where the gauge normally sits and u get a good idea of when something isnt right (i.e when its in the red and your sat there thinking ), but you have no indications to the air/fuel ratio, this gauge could save you an expensive ass meltdown and re-build! Obviously if its possible get the coolant one aswell, but i favour air/fuel over coolant!

 

i have boost oil pressure and oil temperature. does the trick for me

 

I run my centre vents with a Voltmeter, Boost and oil pressure guage in the Escort



In the Fiesta I use an A pillar pod with Boost and ACT guages.

 

When I had to choose only 4 gauges, I went for EGT, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp and Boost.

I personally wouldn't bother with a voltmeter, bit of a waste of space IMO

 

the new Focus ST has the same gauge setup as me

 

It's let me know well in advance that my alternator had packed up before so to e it's worth its weight in gold

 

But you already have a light for that on the dash, I would rather keep an eye on something more important to the engine.

 

Ive never once had the light come on when my alternator has packed up, if the diodes in the rectifier go for the negative side, the battery light wont come on!

The only instance my battery light did come on was when the alternator belt snapped (which i was waiting for anyway, already had pre-warning by the weeks of squealing i had to put up with), and when the brushes went it also didnt go, (because it was still producing a voltage, enough to turn the light off but no where the rate it should of been).

All in all battery lights are crap, the primary function for them being that the alternator needs the light to commence charging (if bulb blows, it wont charge!!!!!)

You both have good points, volt meter gauges are USEFULL, but i also agree with you its not a critical gauge, if the alternator goes your not going to really damage the engine or anything (maybe top off a dying battery) but thats about all.

 

I would still rather keep an eye on something far more critical, like EGT. I wouldn't really bother with AFR either unless you had a very lambda sensor and reader.

I have a voltmeter in the car, but never ever check it. There more important things to watch.

Just my opinion though

 

[quote="Tony Turbo"]I would still rather keep an eye on something far more critical, like EGT. quote]

I already said you had a good point lol and you have a voltmeter anyway

 

To be honest I tend to only glance over the guages as I'm far too busy watching the road go blurry

 

[quote="safechav"]
Only because it came built into my Stack

I wouldn't choose to have one otherwise.

 

i've got the heater vent gauge pod atm, volts, oil pressure and water temps in there like you want for yours. Volts have been useful but when i get my new gauges volts won't be one of them, will be getting either oil temp or something AFR related....

Volts just don't seem as important, rather have a dead battery than dead engine any day

 

My sediments exactly

And I have had more dead engines than dead batteries, unfortunately