Hello my bro's escort keeps cutting out at roundabouts etc. Evertthings new Engine, turbo, pump, leads etc everything plus it just been set up but it cuts out when you stop and is a nightmare to start. The guy that set it up said it maybe wiring.
Anyone got anything i can try

Cheers
Rich

 

How is it cutting out.

Is it the engine rev's dying, thus stalling, or just like on/off so an electrical problem ?

 

Yeah the revs drop all the way down and die's

Cheers
Rich

 

Does it do it when just warm, or just cold or both.

Sorry for all the questions, got to eliminate some things first

 

The bad starting is when cold but it cuts out when ever it feels like it lol, its abit random

Rich

 

Will it idle on its own if just left there running ? Or will it cut out ?

 

Idles fine when left, just cuts when at stops when driving

Rich

 

Check for airleeks mate,

Usually its either the dipstick or the hose right underneath it, but it could be elsewhere, Have a good look about make sure no pipes have come off.

 

If it cuts out when braking it could be the hose from the inlet-brake servo. a new hose and or seal may cure it.

 

it almost definatly sounds like an air leek though, ill be suprised if its anything complicated.

 

Oy I do all the dirty work and you lot then come storming in

It does now sound like he has an air leak or a breather pipe not sealing correctly on either the engine or servo as David said

 

Sorry Tony

 

Im sure he's glad of any help

Im just jesting

 

Cheers guys thanks for the help, if the weathers good tomorrow i will have a good look

Thanks Again

Rich

 

Would a leak also cause the bad starting

Cheers
Rich

 

Yes it would.

the breather system has to be sealed for the metering flap to work correctly when cranking. So any leak, boost hose, vacume hose, breather, oil cap seal, dipstick seal etc would cause problems with the cars running and starting.

 

Cheers

Rich

 

Fairplay Bosch KE Jetronic is a pain in the arse, i had to disconnect the breather system on mine from the air box to get it to idle well, roll on the EFI conversion i say im getting fed up with all the messing about

 

Ok had a good look today and cant find a leak anywhere . I can hear what sounds like hissing at the back of the inlet but cant find where its coming from.

Any ideas people

Rich

 

They all do that! Theyre crap fairplay, you'll find if you wiggle the idle screw on the underside of the throttle housing the hissing changes, very poorly made.

Ok, well its time to start eliminating things, does the car have a vacuum/boost gauge aswell?

 

LOL i dont like the mfi, efi's much better. Tried the boost gauge with no difference.
When you start it, it fires up but then dies straight away after about 6 times of the same it starts BUT will only idle if you touch the pedal it dies. You have to let it ldle for about 5 mins till its good to drive. Its a right pain

Cheers
Rich

 

When i said about the gauge, when it eventually idles what does it read and is it eratic?

Once hot if u turn it off and leave it for 5 minutes does it re-start well?

 

Oh ok sorry no its not eratic, it will start after about 5 mins but not after 30mins

Cheers
Rich

 

Is the rocker cover bolted down tightly?

 

Yes it is

Rich

 

Ok' if your vacuum/boost gauge isnt reading eratic then its not an air leak, before i sorted mine out the vacuum gauge was a big give away, was very eratic when the car wasnt idling well (my gauge seems very sensitive however), if i were you, temporarily (or permenantly) disconnect the long hard breather pipe running from the oil control filter to the metering head, this elimiates the whole breather system from interfering with air leaks, any air leak anywhere on the engine with it connected will affect it (loads of possibilities for air leaks).

Its also worth checking the fuel system ir retaining its pressure, do you know how to do this?

 

Ok cool will try that but may not get a chance for a bit what with working lol. Its got a bailey breather, so just block the pipe going to the metering head. And no i dont know how to check the the fuel pressure thing

Cheers
Rich

 

Ah right so its already got a modified breather system. Yeah try disconnecting it, but keep the pipe high just incase theres any oil in it otherwise you'll make a mess lol (shouldnt be though), ive still yet to find something to permenantly block mine (currently blocked with a 1/2"-1/4" reducer socket )

Well the fuel pressure can be checked by depressing the metering head, leave it over night, and before turning the key or anything, remove the air filter and gently push the flap down, should have a little resistance and move down smoothly, and when you let go it should rise slowly and smoothly, if the fuel pressure has gone it will spring back instantly and bounce a little bit at the top.

 

Ok nice one will give that a go, any other things i could try

Cheers
Rich

 

The good old Jerry can of petrol (and/or!!??) bottle of lighter fluid and box of matches may be worth bearing in mind

Not off the top of my head, try that first, and let me know how you get on.

 

Mine use to cut out at roundabouts when i braked. All it was in the end was the ignition coil was loose. It wasnt earthing right, hence when i braked, it cut out. Tightend it up & hay pressdo

 

Dont know if you are still having trouble. Mine did exactly the same bad starting, when it did finally start you would have to leave it to idle for a bit. It turned out to be the multiplugs onthe back were the wrong way round. check they are all on properly in the right places particularly the one temp sensor under the inlet manifold and the thermo time switch on the back of the inlet manifold. the ecu's wernt making the fuel richer on warm up hence having to leave it running for a bit etc.

 

Dont know if you are still having trouble. Mine did exactly the same bad starting, when it did finally start you would have to leave it to idle for a bit. It turned out to be the multiplugs onthe back were the wrong way round. check they are all on properly in the right places particularly the one temp sensor under the inlet manifold and the thermo time switch on the back of the inlet manifold. the ecu's wernt making the fuel richer on warm up hence having to leave it running for a bit etc.

 

give the auxillary air device a clean with carb cleaner.

 

That in theory should make no difference at all???? The coils dont need earthing?? Very wierd

richard_xr2i1800 Have we got any updates yet?