Bloody typical the boiler has packed up...................... well sort of

Check List........

Pilot light.....check
Gas On..... check
Water on...... check
Electric on........ check
Heat....... nope
Loud banging noises...... double check



Everytime the boiler kicks in sounds like its trying to pump round nuts and bolts around the system

Which inturn makes the boiler turn itself off, it relights and the banging noise that it creates is soooo loud - peeps can hear it walking past the house

I thought it was an air lock and have drianed and refilled the system twice now still to no avail.

Any thoughts?

Catch me on MSN if its easier

Weve had no heating since Xmas eve Hmmmmm Chilly.

 

what boiler and system you got ????

 

sounds like pump has gone or is stuck and the water in your boiler is boiling and that is the banging noise you can here have a look at the pump bet it is very hot

o just read all the post that you have drained it down, well just bleading the rads probley wont help, have a look in the airing cupboard for an air vent next to cylinder and get the air out of that if there is one.

 

air block in the system still make sure you bleed correctly

 

The boiler is a Glo-Worm Fuel Saver 30B mk2

What d'ya mean by system?

 

As Dunc said, sounds like the pump has given up mate.

The boiler will be coming on, heating up the water but it is not being pumped round the system so it is reaching temperature and shutting off again.

First check and see if the pump is hot........ie Fookin hot.

If it is try tapping it a little as this MAY give it a helping hand if it is seized.

 

But wheres the air come from, i aint touched the system in ages work wise and its been fine up until a few days ago....

Its defo been bleed properly, I mean i'm no plumber that is.

 

Cheers Tiff, i check in the morning.

Thanks

 

No problem.

IF it is the pump that is fooked it is not too much of a problem.

Each side of the pump should be 2 brass shut-off valves.

To change the pump it is just a case of shutting them off and removing the pump and the wiring.........Then just refit the new one and re-wire it back up

 

Sorted, sounds simple enough for me to sort then

Now where is it? PMSL

In the bolier or in the airing cuboard?

 

have a look at my post i added a bit after i read all your first post

 

I'll do that too, but like Tiff said its prob the pump. The whole system (inc boiler) is nearly 20 years old now

 

there's a few different types of ch system....

you may have the old conventional gravity system ,which more often than not will have an elson(or similar )tank or a hot water cylinder and a further header tank and either a back boiler or wall mounted boiler....
or....
a similar 'fully pumped 'system which will be again a back/wall mounted boiler and a hot water storage tank/cylinder...but has a 3-way diverter valve fitted which switches between ch and hw....
or ...
combi boiler....

to identify yours the easiest way :

combi boiler ....no hot water storage tank/cylinder....
fully pumped....check for 3-way diverter valve...usually within 2 foot of the pump...
conventional.....no 3 way diverter valve ....

the guys seem right ...it'll not be working because if there's air in it stops the water circulating ..resulting in heat build up and then the thermostat just cuts the boiler off as it's overheating...also if you drained a fully pumped system down its not just a case of filling it up and thats it ...there's a few vent point on the system to release the air ...and then when its done you've got to do it a few times to get it right

 

See this is why i aint a plumber

But in answer to your question, we do have that 3 way valve thing as that needs replacing too

So pump to replace, 3 way valve to replace, check air valves.....

 

And boiler soon too i would say

 

Thanks

I'm glad i have a friend who works in a heating wholesalers, he can aquire me bits

 

it may well be that the pump is ok ...
what is not working ??? are you getting hot water and no ch or are you getting ch and no hw or are you getting nothing at all

trying to simplify it ....

hot water comes from your boiler and up to the pump....
the pump pumps it to the 3 way valve .....
depending on your selection the 3 way valve will divrt the water to your hw stoage tank/cylinder....or your radiators (ch)....or both....
if you are getting either hot water or radiators heating ...then your pump will be ok ..the problem lies in the valve ...

if you're not getting anything then most likely your pump is fucked....
then the boiler will be overheating and switch off...

if you decide to swap the pump there is an arrow on it pointing the direction of flow ....make sure the new one is the same ..or it'll not work....

good luck mate .......

or it might be woth considering biting the bullet and changing over to the combi...if it's 20 years old as pumps and diverters are about Ł100 each

you can go and but a combi for about Ł500 ....
any way lets get back to cars....i'm supposed to be on holiday.....

 

CHRISP

Cheers fella, i already have the diverter valve ready to go. Will try and sort a pump thru my mate later this week.

We have only hot water and thats because the emersion heater switched on.

Merry Christmas

 

diverter is a fuck on mind ...as it means drainig the system down to fit it ....if your doing it youself make sure you get 'a' 'b' and 'a/b' the right way round....sounds daft but you'll see when you're doing it .....

when you come to refill make sure you vent/bleed the radiators (downstair first) and also the vent on the pipe next to your hot water storage tank/cylinder it's normally just a screw type fitting .......when full switch everything on for a few minutes ,to let the water circulate a bit and then vent the screw again...do it a few times till all the airs out ...make sure the boiler is off when doing this....

good luck......

 

quick thought mate....most diverters have little sliding lever on the side ..(just under the head above the brass body )it sticks out about 1cm... if you have one you can slide this along and its got a little cut out in the side of the head that the lever can rest/stop in....this manually opens the valve and lets water through....you may get hot water and ch as the valve is fully open.......i sometimes use this a temporary measure to to get some heat back on ...