I’ll like to say a big belated thanks to the bromster who has been working on my fiesta, on and off for the past six months. What started out as run of the mill job i.e. fit pedal box and inlet, ended up being a complete overhaul I’ve compiled a list of what I could remember. Brom you’re very meticulous and methodical working to all hours. Still a few bits to do before we are completely finished . Brom not just an expert in one field he built my engine loom, car loom, engine and redesigned a lot of parts. He’s just a one stop shop for all your needs . One of the best conversions was the hydraulic clutch pedal feels so soft and with quick recoil a must for anyone running a twin plate paddle or a paddle clutch in general .
Thanks to Simon Johnson for his help and expertise in getting the s8 ecu working with the 32-1 crank sensor and doing a good base map cars running sweet .
And thanks to Karl Norris for the mapping even though the steering wasn’t user friendly but I have established what the problem was. Thanks for getting the closed loop, water injection and autometer rev counter working cant run anymore then 15psi due to my clutch slipping but I hope to remedy this in the New Year before the rolling road shootout with a twin plate setup by zoo eventually I want to run the car @ 27psi plus nitrous




built by zoo motorsport mapped by karl norris
zoo motorsport built 2.0zvh eagle steel rods je pistons 7:8:1 compression ratio
David Newman custom cam
Pumaracing 45mm valve race spec larger insert cvh head with custom double valve springs
Gt25/40r 0.64 dual roller bearing turbo Simpson’s race exhausts tubular manifold hks filter
Zoo three inch exhaust system from the turbo back
Zoo turbo pre-rad and oil cooler with remote oil filter
Zoo spoon style inlet manifold with 45mm ram jets
Grs fm cooler grs 520mm rad
Uprated escort cosworth fuel pump
S8 ecu running coil pack, closed loop lamba, water injection
750cc injectors
Zoo group a engine mounts and gearbox cradle.

Transmission
Cts stage two plus gearbox with shot peened & polished gears
Helix six paddle clutch extra heavy duty cover
Zoo hydraulic clutch

Brakes
Hi-spec Wilwood four pot calipers 300mm discs alloy bells
Hi-spec 300mm rear brake conversion alloy bells
Zoo Wilwood pedal box conversion triple master cylinders brake biased valve

Suspension
Avo coilovers
Zoo rose jointed adjustable rear beam
Zoo adjustable rose jointed lower arms for camber & castor

hydraulic clutch







custom gearbox cradle















pumaracing 45mm valve head


45mm ram jets

 

Good stuff but you really should try and move the nitrous solenoids a LOT nearer to the distrubition blocks if you can.

 

Was this the one that was in topboss's workshop yrs ago?!!

 

Looking good mate....whens the next bag of chocolates going to the ZOO mate.

& you forgot to thank the DIVA for giving Brom all that knowledge

 

chip could i get away with this setup ie will i run into problems otherwise i'll have to change quite a few things just to move them.

 

yes 15 bloody months and still ended up with a pile of shite

 

Looking wicked mate Some proper work gone into that. cant wait to see it about . your have to take me for spin next time i see ya

 

Well you'll remember this car then...



It was as good as wrote off when he picked it up!!!

Its only nearly finished now,,, been well over 4yrs in the making!

 

Well you wont know for certain until you try it, but those pipe lengths are far from ideal.

The problem you will get is an initial leanout where there 1000psi nitrous races down the pipes well ahead of the 50psi fuel, this can obviously lead to either a misfire if it goes lean enough or a potential for Det briefly, which is never a good idea.
Then as you back off the throttle and nitrous stops you will get a sitation where it goes rich momentarily as the fuel pipes slowly disharge into the manifold, which can cause a "splutter" as you come off the throttle.

Its going to depend on the size of jets used though, if you are only running on little jets its not such an issue as if you are hitting it with 100bhp.

Also if you have a maximiser controller you can completely cure the initial leanout if you program it correctly, but you will still potentailly suffer with the moment of richness at the end.

Can you give me some more details of your setup, like what controller if any you are using, what size jets, what triggers it to come on etc.

 

oh yes the diva taught brom all he knows..... i'll be back at broms sometime in january

 

i will be using a holley progressive controller yeah i know american crap but i brought this with my first kit but never got round to using it.. triggering with a won tps switch i want 100bhp @ the crank power so what ever jets i need for that, could quite possibly achieve that on 50 jets the system not been used or setup as yet

 

yeah i remember that one does'nt time fly, did toploss do the work in the end

 

IME you will need to jet for about "80 bhp" to get 100bhp@crank on most engines if you get the mixture right and are running a decent bottle pressure (900 psi or so i find works well personally)

Holley controller should work ok, although depends on what model it is and i cant profess to be an expert on them, but i dont think it will allow you the "nitrous delay" option that ideally you want to be using to stop yours going lean.

As a cheap fix you could make sure the nitrous-distributor pipe is longer than the fuel one, by trimming the fuel line down to the absolutely minimum length you can get away with and going straight over the plenum even if its not such a pretty layout.

 

No he didnt,,, he took about 5k of him and all he got was a butchered chassis leg, and a load of scratches all over the car!

Its been built in Burnley in conjunction with dubsport, on 8 injectors, T38 etc... and an ice build by Burnley car audio

 

As sticky say's you forgot to thank the diva.....

Nice work Bromley sir and we will see you over the holiday for those drinks we keep talking about

 

Just to let you know, i have double checked with the american main distributor of WON products (who knows a lot about the yank wank stuff and how it works obviously) and he has confirmed that it WILL be safe to use your holley controller with the WON solenoids just like we were thinking, although obviously its far from ideal as it wont allow you to set to the correct frequency for the won solenoids and doesnt have as many features etc.
But it shouldnt lead to any failures using it till you get a proper controller later on

If you do decide to step up to a maximiser later on (or need any other wizards of nos products) i can buy most stuff at 20% off for you as im elegable for dealer discount due to the volume of stuff ive bought from them over the years.

 

Awesome!

Love the work on the inlet and plenum

 

Looking Smart!


You also have PM

 

whats the idea of the box cradle?

 

top work by brom again

 

for Strength and the engine been lowered for Straighter drive shafts to aide traction

 

now why didnt you say that in the first place

 

Would be nice to get a spin in the beast when its all set up right........
Was very interesting seeing the car take shape over the weeks at the zoo!!

 

awesome bits engineering !

cant wait to pick my cos up from the zoo tomorrow !

 

no worries m8 once i get my clutch sorted out

 

thanks for the info and the offer def need to change to the won controller but first i have to purchase a twin plate paddle clutch

 

whippy i'll be going back there sometime in january for a different clutch so can see you then

 

fook me in a nova topboss have'nt changed there ways i dont know if its finished but fitz was doing a 24v tt conversion which has taken 2 years so far tell your m8 to drop the ice i spent £5000 on ice, seen the light so got rid of it.. speed is so much more fun

 

There's plenty of it too,,, this was only when it was half done..