Hi Guys,

Just about to fit a new group a fuel pump (Bosch 044) ........... Do I need to modify and of the wires.....(Earth lead etc....) ?????

 

Run 30amp capable wire from the battery to the boot and use a relay to supply it to teh pump, switched on by the existing fuel pump trigger wire.

Be sure to fuse it at teh battery and run through a grommet properly.

 

i would buy an amp wiring kit,, as the cable is normally quailty, and has a nice water proof fuse with it

 

If you place the feed through the existing grommit and stick the fuse in the boot then it don't need to be water proof LOL...

 

a fuse should really be within 12inch of the battery,,, its there too protect the cable from fire not the pump

 

Good Point - personally would never put the relay in the boot so never had that issue

All my fuses are about 3 foot from my battery though LOL....


Not sure the pump can pull 30amp to cause the wire to burn out anyway...

 

thats not my problem thats yours

 

Why is it a problem then Gareth ?

 

its nto really a problem im teasing

but that 3 foot of cable is unprotected from short circuit, so if this wire chaffed and grounded too earth it could so easy turn into a 10KW heater

 

That be true mate its got some protection on it and its about 170amp right to my cut off switch

 

 

Dingy, you should really fuse as close to the battery though, particularly when 30Amp wire is used

sorry for the late post just gone to get some coffee and the whole world's posted on this already

 

Many Thanks guys, on the case as we speak.

From Battery, (8inches of 30am cable), then 30am fuse, then wire ran to rear of car close to fuel pump, connected to relay ????? (Which Terminal ?????)........... Original Pos Wire that went to original pump fitted to relay (Which Terminal ???????) and a third relay tab to fuel pump (Which Terminal ???????)

Just need to clear up which terminals to use on the relay for which wires........ Have Relay with three spade terminals on it .

Jim

 

Jim, is there a part number on the relay, and numbers/letters next to the terminals ?

 

One minute Frog..... Will get it

 

30 would be your new wire from the battery
87 would be a new wire running too your new pump,, same size as battery feed
86 this is where you connect the old fuel pump wire too
85 a ncie grounded lug too the car body


remember too replace the earth of the pump aswell,,, with the same size wire as the batter feed, to a nice clean part fo the chassis

 

 

Relay has the following written on it :

REL28DB

DC12V 30AMP (AND HAS A 30AMP FUSE FITTED INTO IT).

LP0307

has four terminals = numbered 30, 85,86 and 87.

 

As above then

 

i can just see it now - "look at my bling bling fuel pump wires"


























i'll get me coat

 

seriously tho, an ideal relay for switching the high current for the fuel pump is the black one from the fuse box on a sierra - it is used to switch the main ignition feed for the car, so go rob one from the scrappies

 

You guys are brilliant.......

Thanks so much. Just going out to get a length of 30amp wire and some grommets.

Is it best (Easiest) to run the wiring through the car, or under the car ????

Karl will be putting the two halves of the engine together next wednesday, I'll be fitting it friday and Saturday, driving anywhere and everywhere on Sunday, and back to karls for setting up hopefully Monday/Tuesay week after.

This project has been going on for far too long, but at last the end is only days away. Went for conventianal 400+ bhp, and simal torque running a fully modified NMS head and a conventional semi low comp bottom end, with all the right ancillaries (Chargecooler etc) grey's and fully ported manifolds (Inlet) along with one of Vince's (Universal Turbo's) T38's. Expecting 420bhp and similar torque. So will let you know how the next few days go. And it will be put on a rolling road, just for my own damned curiosity. (Any advice at to who's running an accurate Rollling Road at the moment .........With decent Cooling Fans)..... Let me know.

 

Gracie........ Stop it

 

Cheers Froggie

 

inside the car mate

 

There is a grommet behind the glove box. If you remove the glove box, you should find a plate with relays on it, behind that is a grommet which goes through into the engine below the battery.

If you use that, make sure you re-seal any holes you made in the grommet, or your footwell will be full of water soon.

You should then be able to run the wire along the side of the car, under the carpet, remove the side bolster on the rear bench and run the cable through there, or, under the seat bench into the boot area.

Then, drill a small hole in the spare wheel well, grommet and voila, although I think there already is a hole in the boot floor for the fuel pump (that's where the wires to the trip switch go), so you might be able to use that, or enlarge it slightly.

You might also be able to run it under the car, zip tied to the brake lines for example - much easier, but not very well protected.

Make sure you use grommets everywhere cable goes through sheet metal though.

 

Tks Frog : Know what you mean about grommets, will use them everywhere. (Don't take chances with electrics).

 

How many meters of 30amp wire am I looking at (Just a rough guess)..... Don't want to end up buying a length six inches too short

 

10-12 meters of red and the same in black will be fine I'm sure, as a side note, I would run the pump earth direct to battery also and use the original fuel pump earth to earth the new relay

 

10-12 meter's foook me.....

be approx 4-5metres in length depending how you route it

 

right i no this thread is like 3 years old but it's the only one that has a pic of the relay wiring on bosch 044 pump's,
the question i need answering is on the relay, connector 86 is say's connect to car fuel pump wiring for trigger, but i dont have this wire, can i not just run a wire from 86 to the dash to a flick switch and connect up to 30 connector wiring? (main feed from battery)
bit confusing but any help would be great

 

Yes all you need is 85 and 86, one earth one live does not matter which, as it will still pull contacts closed and work.
The only problem with a flick switch is in the event of an accident, fuel will still pour out maybe out of a ruptured fuel line onto a hot engine, and you may be in no state to flick a switch owing to accident, just a thought.
tabetha