Replacing the brake fluid - any tips?
The S2 car that I've just bought has been in hibernation, until earlier this year, since 1994.I'm in the process of changing all of the fluids and now looking at brake fluid. I have a Gunson's Eezibleed.
Any tips? Anything to make it easy and straightforward and/or anything to avoid doing? Is it ok to jack-up the corners, when bleeding each circuit, to improve access to the bleed screws? Which DOT number fluid? I'm not planning to examine any seals, simply replace the fluid.
Many thanks
Any tips? Anything to make it easy and straightforward and/or anything to avoid doing? Is it ok to jack-up the corners, when bleeding each circuit, to improve access to the bleed screws? Which DOT number fluid? I'm not planning to examine any seals, simply replace the fluid.
Many thanks
Dot 4 or 5.1 (not 5!) will do. If you're doing a full drain down then its completely your choice. I've never had problems with either, and either are gonna be better than 30yr old fluid.
For fronts, jacking up is fine but even on a -40mm escort I can get an arm up and undo bleed screws on my calipers with the wheel on full lock.
Do you have the compensation valve at the back? If no, then again jacking up is fine (but again, you can squeeze under and reach with a ratchet)
If you've got the valve, then I fear you're gonna have fun as they like to seize after sitting for 20mins. Its been so long since I've worked on one with the valve fitted (thank god) that I've forgotten the official process, but basically you can't jack it up to do it.
If you get no fluid movement from the rear, then chances are you need to spend some time freeing up or rebuilding the valve setup - or getting rid and plumbing in the new lines.
For fronts, jacking up is fine but even on a -40mm escort I can get an arm up and undo bleed screws on my calipers with the wheel on full lock.
Do you have the compensation valve at the back? If no, then again jacking up is fine (but again, you can squeeze under and reach with a ratchet)
If you've got the valve, then I fear you're gonna have fun as they like to seize after sitting for 20mins. Its been so long since I've worked on one with the valve fitted (thank god) that I've forgotten the official process, but basically you can't jack it up to do it.
If you get no fluid movement from the rear, then chances are you need to spend some time freeing up or rebuilding the valve setup - or getting rid and plumbing in the new lines.
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