I see Smith and Jones will supply an iron 200 block for same price as there alloy one, but no mention of if it's stronger or weaker than the alloy one ?

so I'm just curious if anyone has used one or knows which is likely to hold the most power

 

I would assume they have done the area around the mains
the same as the alloy one with more material and 4 bolts per
cap

but personally I would go alloy
for the weigh same and they still
make great power

cast iron is just more period correct

 

Thier quiet abit thicker than the 200 I believe lool on thier website

 

Stick with iron, saves any fucking about with liners

 

They talk about 1000 bhp on there website but I don't know if that's both blocks or just the alloy one

 

There's little doubt the iron block is stronger than the alloy.

Unless you absolutely need the weight reduction, I wouldn't bother.

A friend of a friend here is running their iron block, although I never got a chance to see it myself. Probably only around 600hp.

 

i think the iron block for the historic boys

 

My thoughts exactly iron gotta be stronger, when I need new block will get one, they've only been tested to 600 hp so far so I'm told so will be a first at high 700s if/when it happens

 

when it seems to be difficult to get a good original block, the head fasteners need a ton of work, trying to get anyone to re-line an old block successfully is a nightmare etc etc...

Really, it seems futile when there is a new option available.

I'd liked to have got a look at the block, but it it has the same features as the alloy ( like the long studs into the mains etc ) then it should be a very good block

The one alloy block I did see, the liners seemed awfully thin, at least from the top of the deck. I'd much prefer a liner where the fire ring of the gasket was on the iron liner, as opposed to on the soft alloy deck.

With iron...it's a non issue.

Unless it really is an extreme racer, or a lightweight n/a application....stick with iron

 

Can't get one til late next year so gonna try and run the mountune linered 200 block again if it tests up ok

 

Like James, I assume iron is for the historics. I would defo go with alloy to get the 20-25kg weight saving off the front axle…it’s a huge bonus.

 

My mind says the iron has to be strongest it's what I think I will have, wish I could get one now as I would buy one

 

yes, if strength is the goal then defo…although the ally rated at 1000 should be fine if you don’t get too carried away and keep it under 800.

 

Definately keeping it below 800 mate from the videos I've seen traction is a nightmare at 760 🤣😂
Will likely only run 1.9 - 2.2 bar most of the time for 650-710 hp will last longer then aswell 👍
But I want that full beans 2.7 bar map done so turbo is flat out and it's there at the flick of a switch if I want it

I just don't like liners, I'd rather a solid thick wall iron block

 

The tyre tech has come on a long way since those vids

 

Liners are no problem if the block has been machined and installed correctly,most higher hp cars use copper rings too

 

I mean videos I've had of the car driving this year it's spin city

 

I know all that I just don't like liners, I run alot of plant and liners cause me no end of grief, given the choice i prefer solid iron block

 

Ah, ok then and thinking about it, it’s a very light car on the back and even with a beam mod they are not the height of sophistication in terms of suspension and geo. Wheelspin can be fun and very scary with the performance you will have

 

That's all part of the fun mate I can't wait to have a go 😁👍

 

That is strange there reliable as hell in dafs. The little engines that don’t have liners are chuck away engines un less we sleeve them. I’ve done the odd cracked liner and there’s been a few mx engines around the 800 too a million km’s mark that have liner lift due to corrosion under the lip. But that’s an easy fix the block gets the lip recess re cut and the liners shimmed. Not seen one of them myself though.

 

The alloy would be for me. The differential in materials also caused issues on the iron block/ally head combo. I would only go for iron if I had to for regulations.
As for liners, if I cannot determine the age of a block or more accurately the block consistency then it gets linered no questions to gain integrity.

 

Don't get me wrong they need wet liners as they've done over 50000 hours now and been rebuilt several times, it's just the liner movement that can happen and need counterbore cut, in my cossie I'd rather a solid iron block

The s and j iron block is 16mm thick bores, it should theoretically be even stronger than the alloy one, I will be first to run one over 600 hp that they know of, if I get one

 

That is a good point I guess with alloy block and head the expansion rates will be the same

 

Will certainly be closer than the cast iron. Does the S&J iron block have through studs to the main caps?

 

Yeah through studs the same, very hard thick block, 16mm thickness bore walls

 

To me its just expansion rates and weight then.

 

I think with the liners it depends massively on who does them and what ones are used.

You use the right parts for the job and the the work done spot on them it shouldn’t be an issue.

As mentioned there are plenty of applications where liners are neigh on bomb proof.

Cheers Paul

 

Interesting chat at 9.40 into this vid!

 

that turbo is a whopper lol