This car is testing my patience
Took the car off the road last year to tidy it up - ended up being a full on restoration as per usual

Almost finished but it won't start. It will run if i put a splash of fuel into the plenum but won't fire up on it's own.
I just noticed today that there is no fuel at the fuel rail however there is around 7-8 bar just before the fuel pressure regulator. Regulator is new bought last month from MSD so doubt it's faulty?
As part of the resto, I have replaced the following with new:

Crank sensor
Phase sensor
Map sensor (3 bar)
Coolant Temp sensor
ISCV
Fuel Pressure regulator.
New pump
New fuel filter
Uprated pump loom
Green 803's been cleaned and flow tested
MSD chip
L6 ECU with wasted spark

Anyone any ideas? Canl;t understand why there would be no fuel at the rail.

 

So where do you have 7-8 bar? At the bottom of the regulator on the left, or at the inlet on the right hand side of the rail

 

I think you've nailed it tbh!
I thought the inlet was under the fuel pressure regulator and the return was on the rail itself!
I've replaced the fuel lines too with new - I think I have them the wrong way round!
Will check tomorrow!

 

Ok, after reversing the new fuel lines I now have fuel at the fuel rail - too much by the looks of it!
It's flooding the cylinders!
If I unplug the injectors, it stops..
Fecking car!

 

Is this with the ignition on, or when cranking?

Martin

 

Just when cranking. I have bought another ECU to test so we will see whaty happens with that when it arrives.

 

OK, got the new ECU and it now runs
Only slightly strange thing is it came with a uprated chip fitted as well as a wasted spark board. Fitted it and it fired up straight away.
However when I fit the MSD chip I bought 3 weeks ago, it doesn't run

Starting to wonder if that's been the problem all along!

 

Awesome you got it running. Shame about the chip!

 

Think I've figured out why.
The ECU I bought was supposed to be a L6 but looks like a L1 so that's why my MSD chip won't work in it.
The seller says it's a Bayjoo chip - is there any way of finding out what the spec might be from the sticker on top?
The top of the chip says "3BL1R26.803" which (as a guess) I'm thinking:

3 bar sensor
L1 ECU
R26 - no idea
803 - greens

Might be totally wrong though

 

Exactly what I was thinking lol. I've not heard of an L1 ecu before only L6 and L8. What were they out of?

Edited to say I've just googled it and found out was 3 doors lol.

 

Yes, L1=3 DR. L6 is essentially the same, but electronics are different, hence you can not interchange EPROM's.

L8 has double the memory, hence can run thing like ALS etc and BT Escos improved further with P8.

Your thinking is logical, however I would never use a secondhand calibration, as you simply don't (and can't) know what it is, you can't rely on what a label suggests.

Martin

 

Thanks, not planning to use the chip long term, just wondered if there was any easy way of finding out the spec of it from the number.
Stu at MSD is doing me another chip for my spec but L1 instead of L6.

With hindsight I should have just bought a L8 when I was buying a replacement ECU but the new one was supposed to be the same as my old one to save changing the chip spec again.... which I had to do anyway

 

Yes and no, MSD for example keep a database with S/N and calibrations, but what’s to say the EPROM has not been reprogrammed in the past?

Unless you can read it (and even then you would have to understand mapping) you simply don’t know 100%.

For this reason, I would never buy (nor trust) a second hand EPROM, despite what it may claim to be, it’s simply not worth the risk.

Martin

 

Well, new MSD chip fitted again and all seems well

Now I just need to sort out a breather - what's the best these days? Both sides of the block? Would rather not drill the cam cover.
I saw this fitting kit on Burton's page. Does the bit on the left replace the plug underneath the exhaust manifold?