As title really. This a bit of a story but I want to recapture my youth but with a lot of boost. This will be a long term project which will happen but won't even be looking for a base Car to start on until next year as life has kinda got in the way with the birth of a baby boy 2 weeks ago but its giving me time to save as I want to do it right first time.

Back in the day I had an 1984 13gl orion in red with chopped springs (out a mk2 xr2) on s2 alloys and 90spec recaros and all my mates had xr2s 3is and turbos but when we all went out none of them seemed to be able to keep up with me out the back road . Now I want to build that car again but with a twist

The original idea was to buy a complete saff but as I have had this in the back of my mind for the last five years but the price of a good saff has probably doubled so I've came to that conclusion that i was only really wanting to buy the sierra complete for the YB so why not just build a zetec turbo from scratch!! Theres a lot of ifs and buts with this but I know that it can be built to be used in a rear wheel drive application and fudgeys sierra build has given me a lot of inspiration so in my head will end up mk1 orion in sunburst red,Rs 16i front spoiler and escos wheels and rear drive

Can't wait for my garage to be finished to find the base car to chop up

 

I followed Karlos G's guide on here with a few changes.

ST170 based engine.

 

Away to have a nosey at that now cheeRs

 

best way is 400+bhp and a very fat wallet
personally i've done the expensive way, i'd do the 300bhp way and get an st170 bottom end, strap on a blacktop head with a 1.8mm gasket. then find a good gtx28, frs inlet and tubular exhaust manifold.
run on megasquirt (find mapper first), siemens deka IV injectors, swirl pot in boot and 044 pump.

this is where it gets tricky though, gearbox....
you will destroy an ib5, these zt's are full of torque, don't believe that they aren't.
got to be an mtx75 (mondeo, focus) the frs has an lsd and you will benefit loads from it, but will cost £500-600 for a good one, then there is the clutch, full AP paddle (need to convert to hydraulic pedal setup on top) and they're around £450. then there is custom driveshafts and an electronic speedo needed.....
costs start to spiral i'm afraid, or keep buying cheap ib5 boxes and get good at changing them (1.5hrs start to finish lol!)

oh and you'll need grippy tyres, don't worry about brakes too much, as i found you only need them when you start tipping towards 150mph, then the car lifts off the road a bit anyhow. brakes are for stopping quickly, so the better they are, the later you can brake, standard ones will stop any car, just may need a runway to make it down to 0 safely.

honestly the engine is the easy bit, getting power down and not tearing a box to bits is the expensive bit i assure you.
might be worth adapting some mk6 fiesta struts to fit the mk2 fiesta, then you don't have shaft issues with an mtx box.

 

I agree with the gearbox, thats what holds mine back now, I can change them in a hour on a ramp so I have a couple of spares, just need a couple of spare grand now to convert the gearbox, I have a mtx in the garage but no lsd, it is a cable speedo box though.

 

Played with our map last week and got the ecu to control the boost instead of gizmo, this is a print from dyno on low boost.
Good torque from the old girl

 

what management are you running

 

Omex 600

 

have you got the cam sensor hooked up or just using the crank sensor

 

Just crank

 

just my luck mine never wants to start and i think its to do with the cam trigger settings and was going to ask to look at your settings

 

Is that just batch firing the injectors then?

 

Yep, deka 660cc

 

Good shit man, just shows when oddkidd bangs on about sequential being the only option it's not the case. Mines batch fire too 290bhp at flywheel.

 

Yea not sure wat that's about, does the job, cheers

 

Think it just gets better fuel economy dont know if it affect power output

 

do you use a dry sump nevsrevs or standard oil pump ?

 

Just built one up going the ST170 route

Mine is

ST170 Bottom End
Blacktop head using ST170 Valve Springs
Rover Turbo Inlet Manifold with Rover Turbo Red Injectors
Escort RS Turbo Stage 3 T3
OFAM
etc

Made 200hp at half a bar of boost! Should be good for a bar easy!

 

Standard original oil pump, just stripped and cleaned, with alittle mod we do, but the reason we stop where we are is the pump.

 

Cam sensor sorts out sequential injection, makes sure each cylinder is delivering the right fuel as they all have different requirements. Reduces the need to run as rich to ensure no cylinder on its own is too lean.

 

To tune each cylinder like your saying you would need afr and egt in each exhaust primary ,no point on a road car imo

 

Which is why most run batch. Fitting afr and egt bungs to primary ports isn't such a big job, some manufacturers fit 2 cylinders to one sensor to get it more accurate. As efficiency is paramount more standard ecus are mapped with individual cylinders taken into account.
It really is worth it for best power and economy, just takes longer to map and fit sensor bungs.

Edit to add, think direct injection, only want it sprayed on closed valves before combustion, even tighter than port injection.

 

Sequential gives fuel to each cylinder when it needs it were as batchfire fuels all the time so there is fuel behind closed valves.so the sequential setup runs smoother and better on fuel or atleast that's how i understand it

 

But on the whole in this world trying to find someone to correctly map and having the funds to do it don't add up,

 

the value does get lost a bit, works better for o.e. though at trimming the timing better due to runner lengths and air supply.
admittedly they are designing the map for several thousand ecu's, not one, so there is value in their work.