6 degree beam
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Best place for A: value for money as I've heard places differ in the region of £600!
B: Quality of workmanship
Anybody seen any differences anywhere?
I have the cash, just want to spend it in the right place.
It's for a crystal blue.
Cheers.
Philip.
B: Quality of workmanship
Anybody seen any differences anywhere?
I have the cash, just want to spend it in the right place.
It's for a crystal blue.
Cheers.
Philip.
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: Ireland
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: Perthshire, Scotland
Is that the guy in Ballygawley? If so I got a beam from him. Very well done and well priced. Uses quality rose joints & fabrication was spot on. He even gave me group A tarmac camber and toe settings for setting the car up after.
Last edited by Fezman1; Apr 20, 2015 at 04:46 PM.
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How would any make your car handle worse?
Surely it's just adding adjustability to the rear end, so handling will be as good as the set up?
Correct me if I'm wrong, and there's genuine design differences, but I would expect that build quality would be the only issue?
Surely it's just adding adjustability to the rear end, so handling will be as good as the set up?
Correct me if I'm wrong, and there's genuine design differences, but I would expect that build quality would be the only issue?
I've been looking into what beam to buy for a while now and read a fair bit! Seems it's not in common for a few cheaper home made beams to not be genuine 6 degree beams and they can make the car feel worse than standard on the limit. I guess you get what you pay for. Any one can buy a welder and make one don't mean there doing it right lol
well phil i have a mk beam with a jag diff and its of excellent qualiity,which cant be denied .

i have been to richards workshop and seen his fabrication/welding first hand and the quality is excellent also.

I've been looking into what beam to buy for a while now and read a fair bit! Seems it's not in common for a few cheaper home made beams to not be genuine 6 degree beams and they can make the car feel worse than standard on the limit. I guess you get what you pay for. Any one can buy a welder and make one don't mean there doing it right lol
as well as price ,look at what you get for your money ie single /double adjustable ,size/ quailty of rose joints ,uprated coil over mounts ,adjuster assembly on inner arm for adjustment in the slot ,also is it mig or tig welded ,has the arm been seamless tubed on the inside before it was skinned etc
mark
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: Perthshire, Scotland
hi phil
as well as price ,look at what you get for your money ie single /double adjustable ,size/ quailty of rose joints ,uprated coil over mounts ,adjuster assembly on inner arm for adjustment in the slot ,also is it mig or tig welded ,has the arm been seamless tubed on the inside before it was skinned etc
mark
as well as price ,look at what you get for your money ie single /double adjustable ,size/ quailty of rose joints ,uprated coil over mounts ,adjuster assembly on inner arm for adjustment in the slot ,also is it mig or tig welded ,has the arm been seamless tubed on the inside before it was skinned etc
mark
Most people use McGill motorsports rod ends- & the 'premium' range ones.
Original arm ends are mig welded - so mig welding any changes is perfectly acceptable.
The original arms are hopelessly weak- so any strengthening (without too much compromise on weight) can only be a good thing.
The thing people forget about altering a beam and arms is the time. even with proper jig sets - it still takes a good few hours to complete. & this is where some of the cost differences come in.
As said before, going to an adjustable beam (of any) wont make your car handle worse - unless you make a pigs ear of setting it up.
I must admit- your inner arm adjuster is a great thing.
Most people use McGill motorsports rod ends- & the 'premium' range ones.
Original arm ends are mig welded - so mig welding any changes is perfectly acceptable.
The original arms are hopelessly weak- so any strengthening (without too much compromise on weight) can only be a good thing.
The thing people forget about altering a beam and arms is the time. even with proper jig sets - it still takes a good few hours to complete. & this is where some of the cost differences come in.
As said before, going to an adjustable beam (of any) wont make your car handle worse - unless you make a pigs ear of setting it up.
Most people use McGill motorsports rod ends- & the 'premium' range ones.
Original arm ends are mig welded - so mig welding any changes is perfectly acceptable.
The original arms are hopelessly weak- so any strengthening (without too much compromise on weight) can only be a good thing.
The thing people forget about altering a beam and arms is the time. even with proper jig sets - it still takes a good few hours to complete. & this is where some of the cost differences come in.
As said before, going to an adjustable beam (of any) wont make your car handle worse - unless you make a pigs ear of setting it up.
I think it helps makes it easier to adjust
I meant mig or tig as in tig is slower to do as in time/cost
I use 7/8ths joints witch are very big ie stronger
You have to use jigs to keep everthing square and true
I usally takes a day to do beamg and another day to do a pair of arms
Mark
Last edited by MK MOTORSPORT; Apr 21, 2015 at 09:18 AM.
I have MK motorsport one, work in it is perfection, as always from him!
I bought lots of fabricated parts from Mark bcos he always explains to me how they work, what difference they make, the benefits of having them, i seriously cannot fault his work or knowledge
I bought lots of fabricated parts from Mark bcos he always explains to me how they work, what difference they make, the benefits of having them, i seriously cannot fault his work or knowledge
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Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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Why didn't Ford make the beam 6 degree before production stopped, is the a down side other than cost?
If you drove 2 identical cars on the road, could you tell a non equipped car from a 6 degree car straight away?
If you drove 2 identical cars on the road, could you tell a non equipped car from a 6 degree car straight away?
Last edited by Caddyshack; Apr 23, 2015 at 08:21 PM.
ive got a turbo systems 6 degree beam fitted to my saph, it made a massive difference to the way the car drove and put the power down
my beam bushes were like wizards sleeves though so were due to be replaced
my beam bushes were like wizards sleeves though so were due to be replaced
And i uprate the shock mount for coil overs
Mark
I work on a fair few tippers and skip loaders with smaller rose joints on the back for the sheet and tipping gear. They all have grease nipple types.








