Turbo confusion!
I'm looking for a turbo that will fit an escort RST manifold. If I type T3 into ebay.... WOW!
Theres so many numbers being thrown around I cant remember how old I am!
Can someone please clear it up for me. I want around 170-200bhp from a 1.8 silvertop ZT using a decomp plate, FRST inlet, ERST ex manifold and megasquirt - this is a budget build.
After reading every possible post on the internet I cant find a solid answer but the ERST T3 seems to be the way to go.
Are they all the same or are they different housings, compressor wheels, flange fittings?
Any help appreciated! Cheers guys!
Theres so many numbers being thrown around I cant remember how old I am!
Can someone please clear it up for me. I want around 170-200bhp from a 1.8 silvertop ZT using a decomp plate, FRST inlet, ERST ex manifold and megasquirt - this is a budget build.
After reading every possible post on the internet I cant find a solid answer but the ERST T3 seems to be the way to go.
Are they all the same or are they different housings, compressor wheels, flange fittings?
Any help appreciated! Cheers guys!
No offence but words like "stage 3" scare me... I just want a cheap turbo. There's a few ERST T3s on ebay that need rebuilding and there are kits to rebuild them for cheap money too... any thoughts? Worth doing or do they really go when they go?
If words like stage 3 scare you, then rebuilding one your self probably isnt going to turn out very well..
Stage 3 T3 would be a good one to go for as it will be upto the job and even have room for more power in the future.
or rebuild a std escort rst t3 with a 360 bearing and you will have a stage 1 t3 that will do.
Stage 3 T3 would be a good one to go for as it will be upto the job and even have room for more power in the future.
or rebuild a std escort rst t3 with a 360 bearing and you will have a stage 1 t3 that will do.
Thats the reason for the thread studabear... what fits?
Thanks for the info rs5tu, that sounds like a good idea to me. Its not the building of the turbo that "scares" me, just cost. Do they tend to just need new bearings and seals or do the blades and housings end up chewed?
Thanks for the info rs5tu, that sounds like a good idea to me. Its not the building of the turbo that "scares" me, just cost. Do they tend to just need new bearings and seals or do the blades and housings end up chewed?
Trending Topics
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 27,262
Likes: 585
From: either at work or on way :)
Just ring a turbo supplier and tell them your application and they will steer you right
I had on mine over 10years ago a cosworth T3.48 mine made those numbers with ease.
I had on mine over 10years ago a cosworth T3.48 mine made those numbers with ease.
Thats the reason for the thread studabear... what fits?
Thanks for the info rs5tu, that sounds like a good idea to me. Its not the building of the turbo that "scares" me, just cost. Do they tend to just need new bearings and seals or do the blades and housings end up chewed?
Thanks for the info rs5tu, that sounds like a good idea to me. Its not the building of the turbo that "scares" me, just cost. Do they tend to just need new bearings and seals or do the blades and housings end up chewed?
As Matt said T3.48, the .48 is the exhaust housing size commonly used on a stage 3 hybrid.
Even if you build it yourself, it will need balancing by a pro.
Im confused. I need a turbo to fit an ERST manifold, isn't it the exhaust housing which dictates what turbo I can use? Regardless of how high spec the internals are?
And balancing? If I bought a bog standard ERST T3 then fitted a 360 bearing would it be required? Or only if I change the spec of the turbines?
And balancing? If I bought a bog standard ERST T3 then fitted a 360 bearing would it be required? Or only if I change the spec of the turbines?
T3 fitment turbo refers to just the flange part of the exhaust housing that fits to the exhaust manifold, the .48 is the air ratio of the exhaust housing, easiest way to describe it is like a gear ratio, a way of 'sizing' the housing.
It is more complicated than that when you start to look at compressor 'maps' and so on..
Witchcraft..
It is more complicated than that when you start to look at compressor 'maps' and so on..
Witchcraft..
Last edited by GVK.; Feb 16, 2014 at 09:12 PM.
Cheers GVK! So in theory any T3 will fit an ERST manifold, its just the internals that are different. Can anyone suggest a good turbo for my needs then? I mean a cheap standard turbo, not a ball bearing fire spluttering demon lol. Anyone tried any of the cheap new ones on ebay? Feedback seems good but you don't leave feedback 3 months down the line!
heres one on ebay genuine garrett rs turbo t3 by the looks of it.
if it good nick will run a bar of boost forever and a day
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-escor...item417c98a017
with the above turbo you should make a genuine 170 - 180 hp at 1 bar or so of boost tuned correctly.
if it good nick will run a bar of boost forever and a day
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-escor...item417c98a017
with the above turbo you should make a genuine 170 - 180 hp at 1 bar or so of boost tuned correctly.
Last edited by scoooby slayer; Feb 16, 2014 at 10:00 PM.
that is quite simply nonsense imo.
the shafts and wheels are balanced.
I have built quite a few t6 large frame diesel turbos and they run 1 bar of boost 11 hours a day flat out and havnt had one fail yet.
ive also built 2 Renault 1.9dci turbos (which had both catastrophically failed and seized up) with ebay shaft and wheel kits for £110 no balanceing and they run 1 bar of boost no problems both been running over a year now.
for a big boost engine id probably want to get one checked as the wheel speeds get silly high but it seems to me the op will only be running a bar or so of boost.
op I have also used the cheap t3/t4 turbos with great success on a yb but they would be useless on a 1600 cvh rs turbo unless your gonna rev to over 8000 rpm.
I just noticed your actually 1800, you have the option of a yb t3 with the 0.48 rear housing which may be a better option with the extra capacity.
cosworth t3 turbo available here :
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-r...-in-white.html
Last edited by scoooby slayer; Feb 16, 2014 at 10:12 PM.
sorry that was a bad reply.
I myself used to not touch turbos due to the internet and reading myself they must all be balanced and its simply not true.
the new wheels and shafts are balanced so once installed in a core they are good to go.
there will no doubt be a tolerance and as the boost and flow goes up the shaft speed gets higher and eventually I think they may need a better balance.
abit like balanceing an engine is how I view it not essential, but as the tune increases and rpms increase it becomes more and more important to have a better tolerance of balance.
out of the 10 odd turbos ive built with new shafts and wheels and full service kit or just rebearinged and sealed non have failed yet and none were balanced. the first t6 i did had a little wheel wear where it touched the housing slightly and I built that must be 2 years ago and its still perfect to this day.
All really interesting info! I only want a bar of boost as I'm going to use a 1.5mm decomp plate and 1 gasket to keep the compression up a bit so its not sluggish in the lower regions, but still has the boost when it comes on song. I've read up on a few other sites about the balancing and it seems to be that as long as the wheels and casings are OK you can just mark up before dismantling and refit in reverse order without problems.
I was under the impression that if you makes the nut and wheels on the turbos then do them back up so they line up again then they are then still balanced the same as before you stripped it down.
sorry that was a bad reply.
I myself used to not touch turbos due to the internet and reading myself they must all be balanced and its simply not true.
the new wheels and shafts are balanced so once installed in a core they are good to go.
there will no doubt be a tolerance and as the boost and flow goes up the shaft speed gets higher and eventually I think they may need a better balance.
abit like balanceing an engine is how I view it not essential, but as the tune increases and rpms increase it becomes more and more important to have a better tolerance of balance.
out of the 10 odd turbos ive built with new shafts and wheels and full service kit or just rebearinged and sealed non have failed yet and none were balanced. the first t6 i did had a little wheel wear where it touched the housing slightly and I built that must be 2 years ago and its still perfect to this day.
I myself used to not touch turbos due to the internet and reading myself they must all be balanced and its simply not true.
the new wheels and shafts are balanced so once installed in a core they are good to go.
there will no doubt be a tolerance and as the boost and flow goes up the shaft speed gets higher and eventually I think they may need a better balance.
abit like balanceing an engine is how I view it not essential, but as the tune increases and rpms increase it becomes more and more important to have a better tolerance of balance.
out of the 10 odd turbos ive built with new shafts and wheels and full service kit or just rebearinged and sealed non have failed yet and none were balanced. the first t6 i did had a little wheel wear where it touched the housing slightly and I built that must be 2 years ago and its still perfect to this day.
these are the main turbos I build, we run 8 d8ks with this engine in

heres 2 I built earlier lol

they are massive, t6 frame turbos.
ive done a couple of car ones aswell, ime all this must be balanced as soon as you breath on it is nonsense.
and no im not a dwarf, the engine is massive lol
its not a load of rubbish but it certainly isn't needed as soon as the comp nut is off, and neither is it needed for a shaft and wheel change.
if your gonna be running 2.5 bar of boost through an 800hp engine then that is a different story im talking about stock motors running upto 1 bar of boost.
assumeing the wheel and shaft are in good condition I reuse them, or I have bought a new wheel and shaft assembly and fitted it with new seals/bearings and away you go.
ive seen some turbos that have worn so they were machined and custom oversize bearings fitted, the problem was the shaft ended up to small and eventually effectively twisted and jammed in the housings, I do all our turbos myself now and just scrap them when they've done there life.
when the wheels are worn from touching the case or foreign debrie or the shaft is worn out of tolerance for a new bearing to keep within spec then a new shaft/wheel is needed.
I havnt done a days college all self taught, its not rocket science a lot of it is common sense imo with a bit of research directly related to the job at hand.
its abit like the china knock off turbos, I have used and sold loads years ago, at 1 bar of boost they will run forever and a day but at 2 bar they don't last long.
Last edited by scoooby slayer; Feb 17, 2014 at 07:20 PM.
its not a load of rubbish but it certainly isn't needed as soon as the comp nut is off, and neither is it needed for a shaft and wheel change.
if your gonna be running 2.5 bar of boost through an 800hp engine then that is a different story im talking about stock motors running upto 1 bar of boost.
assumeing the wheel and shaft are in good condition I reuse them, or I have bought a new wheel and shaft assembly and fitted it with new seals/bearings and away you go.
ive seen some turbos that have worn so they were machined and custom oversize bearings fitted, the problem was the shaft ended up to small and eventually effectively twisted and jammed in the housings, I do all our turbos myself now and just scrap them when they've done there life.
when the wheels are worn from touching the case or foreign debrie or the shaft is worn out of tolerance for a new bearing to keep within spec then a new shaft/wheel is needed.
I havnt done a days college all self taught, its not rocket science a lot of it is common sense imo with a bit of research directly related to the job at hand.
its abit like the china knock off turbos, I have used and sold loads years ago, at 1 bar of boost they will run forever and a day but at 2 bar they don't last long.
if your gonna be running 2.5 bar of boost through an 800hp engine then that is a different story im talking about stock motors running upto 1 bar of boost.
assumeing the wheel and shaft are in good condition I reuse them, or I have bought a new wheel and shaft assembly and fitted it with new seals/bearings and away you go.
ive seen some turbos that have worn so they were machined and custom oversize bearings fitted, the problem was the shaft ended up to small and eventually effectively twisted and jammed in the housings, I do all our turbos myself now and just scrap them when they've done there life.
when the wheels are worn from touching the case or foreign debrie or the shaft is worn out of tolerance for a new bearing to keep within spec then a new shaft/wheel is needed.
I havnt done a days college all self taught, its not rocket science a lot of it is common sense imo with a bit of research directly related to the job at hand.
its abit like the china knock off turbos, I have used and sold loads years ago, at 1 bar of boost they will run forever and a day but at 2 bar they don't last long.
I would just buy a new core and fit my housings, ive just fitted a bigger housing to my gt40
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JK12
Pictures, video & Photoshop Forum
33
Apr 26, 2021 12:09 PM








