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Cosworth AFR problems

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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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Default Cosworth AFR problems

My T34 on greens stage 3 Saph has recently started running lean.
The first symptoms were that it wasn't making the same boost, even though it's on a Gizzmo EBC. I went and had it checked out, and the bad AFR figures were found out.
I now have an AFR gauge on it, and on normal driving it's around the 10s and low 11s, then when boosting it goes to high 14s at 20psi!

It's been on a dyno twice before a while back, and had the AFR checked about 6 months ago on the road, and it was ok then I'm told but I don't have a record of any figures to prove this.

It's just had a new 044, pump rewire, pre pump filter and replacement OE fuel filter fitted which didn't make any difference.
Running out of ideas now!
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:03 AM
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Take it to a tuner that knows what there doing and get it set up! If it's in the 14's on boost your end up melting a something! I'd not drive it hard until it's been looked at
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Fuel pressure regulator working correctly and what is the fuel pressure?

Martin

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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:35 PM
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First thing is do is ignore your afr gauge. Any I've seen never really read properly. Do what James says and take it to a specialist.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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As above mate, unless it's something simple (or you're lucky), best off taking it somewhere to get it checked properly. I had similar but not as erratic as your issues, when I took it to Tony @ Turbosytems he found all sorts of minor problems that caused it to run dodgy, leaky injector o'rings, leaking inlet manifold gasket, leaking exhaust downpipe, incorrectly set TPS, etc, etc... I guess for the price of a regulator it's worth changing first though.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Fuel pressure hasn't been checked yet.... Can you get new diaphragms for the regulators? Or is there a typical aftermarket replacement people use?
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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http://www.bigturbo.co.uk/main9.htm
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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not sure if you can get new diapgrams, you probably can, but maybe it's worth just gettiing a cheap 2nd hand reg to try 1st?
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:10 PM
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I purchased a new Weber FPR from MSD , preset 3.5bar under Ł100 .
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:09 PM
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I suggest to check the following:
1. Battery voltage
2. Fuel pump voltage
3. check the vacuum hoses that connects blow off valve, fuel pressure regulator, map sensor...
4. check the fuel lines under the car (if they are in good shape)

I believe that 10s and 11s at low speed is too much (very rich), when at high load you see 14s then probably the fuel pressure regulator doesn't work correct or the vacuum hose that connect the regulator with your inlet manifold is disconnected. The last thing is that you have raise your boost above fuel&boost map and the car doesn't know what to do.

Last edited by MADMAXPTT; Dec 6, 2013 at 09:00 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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Going to try another regulator today and see what happens....
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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When I suspected my reg was shot I let the car idle with the vac pipe disconnected and waited to see if fuel came out of the pipe . After about 20 seconds fuel was apparent.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:09 PM
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When I got to drive it myself today it turns out that there has been an improvement after the fuel system had several bit replaced.... also good having the wideband on board so gave the fuel pressure a tweak to make sure it was safer.

Still doesn't behave quite as I'd like in all circumstances, so I think a proper set up in order, and perhaps a chip too, as I have no idea what it has in the ECU!


Originally Posted by opposite lock
When I suspected my reg was shot I let the car idle with the vac pipe disconnected and waited to see if fuel came out of the pipe . After about 20 seconds fuel was apparent.
Good idea!
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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off topic ade sorry but did that diode arrive in time for the ring?
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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Ade,

think about this mythodicaly ok,

you have components, solenoids, ECU and wiring.

check voltages at the ECU, then components as you know what the voltages should be at various solenoids, correct??

i.e if the MAP fails, you have voltage readings to confirm this.

if the ECU fails, you have voltage readouts to confirm this.

if (and most likely!!!) the wiring fails, continuity, and voltage checks at the solenoids and components will again, confirm it dude!

ive had this many many times with split MAP pipes, MAP sensor fucked and most of all shitty engine bay wiring!!
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by james kiely
off topic ade sorry but did that diode arrive in time for the ring?
Arrived the day I was setting off! But didn't matter, as I had to take another car at the last minute due to this starting to run lean
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 12:10 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Cossie Sean
Ade,

think about this mythodicaly ok,

you have components, solenoids, ECU and wiring.

check voltages at the ECU, then components as you know what the voltages should be at various solenoids, correct??

i.e if the MAP fails, you have voltage readings to confirm this.

if the ECU fails, you have voltage readouts to confirm this.

if (and most likely!!!) the wiring fails, continuity, and voltage checks at the solenoids and components will again, confirm it dude!

ive had this many many times with split MAP pipes, MAP sensor fucked and most of all shitty engine bay wiring!!
Too tired to understand all that now.....lol
Basically the jist is I could probably do with a new loom?
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