Has anyone had any issues in the past with the oil light coming on when the car is on idle?

Basically, my series 2 is fine when driving and on idle when the fans not running, but when the fan kicks in and the revs drop slightly the oil light comes on. Blip the throttle or drive away and it goes off again!?

I thought this might be the oil pick up pipe being blocked, a common issue, but even tho this has now been cleaned out, the issue is massively improved but it still happens

Have just bought engine flush, new oil and a new oil filter so will see if this makes a difference............. just had a kent new cam, lifters, springs, tappets etc etc all fitted too within the last 200 miles so hoping this isn't major!!!!!

 

suppose could be a number of things, oil pressure switch faulty, low oil pressure caused by a oil pump, worn internals mine did this when bottom end went

 

I thought oil pressure switch, but the car has only done 61,000 miles and is standard except for cam, panel filter and exhaust - for worn internals that's a bit low isn't it? hoping its not that!

 

Start with a switch and see what happens. Cheapest first and work your way through i would

 

The last time ah drove mine was a rolling rd day at ava....car drove in and bk fine but ...when car was on rollers they picked up on it with there ear things lol...my oil light had starting doing as u describe about a week before..bottom end was knocking like mad a week later ...then a rebuild engine turned into a full resto and were 3 year later

 

Mine happened on way to work Xmas eve years ago for double time sat at traffic lights was very dim turned out to be shells in conrods

 

Hey Steve how are you! Sounds like this gonna be one of those pain in the arse type problems that you hunt and hunt and hunt for ! Hopefully itll sort itself out! Im sure all these guys know alot more then me but for my 2 pence,

id probably start with the oil system flush and oil change! Id empty the oil, put the fresh stuff in along with the flush and run it through for a few (fast miles) , then empty again and replace filter. Then top up fresh oil again! This way your filter or the oil you empty with the flush may hold all the gunk that been hiding in your system.

Saying that does the light on the dash indicate a fault with temperature or pressure... :S

Obviously if the system has been flushed clearing all build up or obstructions inside, along with your sump and pick up pipe as well, that of course just leaves the pressure... maybe a fault with the pump

Then again may just be a faulty sensor
So the hunt begins i guess..... good luck !

 

As i have said before steve, i think its going to be the switch.

Cheap part aswell, so would be easy to chuck one on anyways.

When you going to do the flush?

 

craig that you ...?

Hopefully just the switch !

 

before you start flushing new oil etc and throwing money at it get the oil pressure checked!

 

I've had soooo many cvh lumps drop oil pressure on idle
It's always the pump and its always too late
You could get lucky and swap out the shells but I'd bet a pound to a penny that crank is marked up and needs a grind
I've a pile of bagged up cranks from the same senario engines
Seems a shame to dump them but I really should

 

Also be very carefull with the switch
It doesnt go totally tight and will split the block if you try to tighten it over reasonable I've seen it plenty back in the day when I broke alot up

 

Hello mate



Yep, seems like this is gonna be a pain in the aRSe i know it, drove the car again tonight and the light never came on.......... when it started doing it, the light came on at idle almost all the time although the day the problem started, the car was swiftly off the road. Oil pick up pipe taken out and then cleaned and now it only does it when the fan kicks in when very hot and is intermittent, not every time. So an improvement at least!

I also notice that my nice new blue coolant is now a shitty brown colour now I've put a few miles on it so i'm thinking the system might just need a clean out

I've got a fresh can of oil, new ford oil filter, engine flush and have now bought an oil pressure switch from Burton Power. Will see what happens when all that is done!

Someone who knows what they're doing will fit the switch LOL!

 

This is so true! Get yourself one of these and don't be a fool

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/MECHANICS-MEC...item1c365cac59

If you are running with low oil pressure all the more running and testing that you are gonna do is destroying more in your engine/making problems worse.

I searched for a long time for my oil pressure problem and the above mechinical oil pressure sensor is the best to monitor oil pressure

Buy one and let us know what oil pressures are you running. Around 2000 rpm you should have 2.8bar according to the haynes manual. I ran about 1.8 there with foocked pump. If that is the problem at you i would suggest change oil pump and take a look at all bearings. If bearings are crap change them too

Else if you continue prepare to trow your new cam away too in a while!

 

Hello steve you get this sorted after mate

 

With a lot of hassle, I think it might be.......... overall it's had another oil change, cleaned out oil pick up pipe, engine flush, new oil pressure switch, sump and pick up pipe gaskets and another oil filter. Have plumed in an oil pressure gauge and now reading as it should.

Got it sorted too late, oil pressure problem caused tapping and most likely oil starvation so as soon as it was sorted, needed ANOTHER new kent cam and lifters after only 280 miles of use

 

What is your oil pressure at 3000rpm and at idle after a good half hours driving? Should be around 45psi and 14psi respectively.
If your cam is tapping then it points to low oil pressure, even a heavily worn cam doesn't tap unless the lifters are faulty.
Also if you are going to replace the cam and lifters then I would only fit a Newman kit these days, the rest are far too unreliable.

 

Also tapping takes a while to dissapear! Lifters need to fill with oil