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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 01:02 PM
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Default Should i worry?

Just picked up my xr3i after ahving most of the engine rebuild to to cracked radiator and it over heating!

Its had head skimmed and pressure tested, same time a fast road cam etc....

When i was drivng it back it smelt hot but sat half way on temp gauge which is normal.

Think the smell is due to the old heat wrap on the down pipe which im going to remove.

After driving it home (20 mins) i lifted the bonnet and it seems to me that its too hot (may just be worrying) i removed the header cap and the water started too rise and spill out over the top which it did when the head went.

My mate said its fine, it will do this if you take cap off straight after driving it and another said the head might not be fixed properly????

As said gauge is fine but don't 100% trust it tbh

Do i ring the lad back up (he's real sound) and tell him or leave it....

Don't want to bother him if its nothing could just be me being paranoid on the other hand don't want to leave it too long!
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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I'd say it sounds ok. Maybe running slightly hotter due to the cam but I know where your coming from. I'd leave it a few days to settle in. And if your still concerned give him a shout
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 01:32 PM
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Trouble is im not taxing it yet so not really going to be driving it so i won't really know
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 01:50 PM
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Get it up to temp everyday see how it is
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:04 PM
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Was looking at ways to run it abit cooler anyway as when i used to have it on the road it always got hot when standing
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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Invest in a good radiator. I got a double core for my toyota and it takes ages now to get warm enough to hit lift so Ill back a good rad up.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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Bonnet blocks too had these on my mk4 astra Sri. Worked a treat
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:24 PM
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Had these before but i may try them again. May put some rs vents in to, didnt really want too but if it helps with cooling then i will.

Just had a new rad as the old one cracked and caused all the problems
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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There's only so many things to do to keep underbonnet temps down without looking like a nob with stick on vents lol. Go with rst vents at least they're oem.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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Tbh i wanted fiesta rs vents or saph vents just to be abit different.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Saph!!!!
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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Can you not fit another after market radiator fan.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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Oh saff vents will look well. I think the fiesta turbo vents will look shit.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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I could fit another rad but don't want to sped too much on it at the moment.

Seen one with frst vents it looked well
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Get a double core alloy radiator. And please don't go fez turbo vents
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordmad!
Just picked up my xr3i after ahving most of the engine rebuild to to cracked radiator and it over heating!

Its had head skimmed and pressure tested, same time a fast road cam etc....

When i was drivng it back it smelt hot but sat half way on temp gauge which is normal.

Think the smell is due to the old heat wrap on the down pipe which im going to remove.

After driving it home (20 mins) i lifted the bonnet and it seems to me that its too hot (may just be worrying) i removed the header cap and the water started too rise and spill out over the top which it did when the head went.

My mate said its fine, it will do this if you take cap off straight after driving it and another said the head might not be fixed properly????

As said gauge is fine but don't 100% trust it tbh

Do i ring the lad back up (he's real sound) and tell him or leave it....

Don't want to bother him if its nothing could just be me being paranoid on the other hand don't want to leave it too long!
What was the temp on the gauge before you pulled the cap off.


Sounds fine to me if the gauge was between 1/2 and 3/4
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SBT83
Bonnet blocks too had these on my mk4 astra Sri. Worked a treat
They look shit, you should never need them if the engine is looked after.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by luke19790_3

They look shit, you should never need them if the engine is looked after.
The engine was looked after! The stainless manifold caused the heat!!! What should someone do? Cut a fuck off hole in the bonnet?
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SBT83
The engine was looked after! The stainless manifold caused the heat!!! What should someone do? Cut a fuck off hole in the bonnet?
you do talk some shit.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:36 PM
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Did you read your last post??
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:39 PM
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The gauge was half way. Just worried about the water level rising when cap was taken off but then was told when engine is hot that happens as your releasing the pressure
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordmad!
The gauge was half way. Just worried about the water level rising when cap was taken off but then was told when engine is hot that happens as your releasing the pressure
That's exactly right! Boiling water under pressure will find its way out of a hole. Ie cap. Every car would do the same. Nothing to worry about
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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Righto cheers!
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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If its just had major engine work I'd put a bet on a bit of air in the system etc,may just need a good bleed through,cvh is a tough old boot of a motor and all the hammered ones I had back in the day never got hot so its most likely something coolant system related rather than engine issues.
Drain and flush it all through,even if just with water for now,put the right amount in,not too much,in fact a bit less than what you need. Remove the overflow pipe that goes into the header tank before you start.
Run it up to temp,leave the cap on and the pipe off,that way any excess air will bleed out at the highest point,keep doing it til its all bled through and see where you are. Add water when required and check that its pumping back through the thin pipe into the header tank. Keep going until all is well,check the fan comes on when it should etc and see where you are from there.
The worst cars to bleed are the e36 beemers in my experience and a good trick for them is to do as I suggested and leave the expansion cap off overnight to bleed off any excess.
Good luck fella.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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Top advice!
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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The engine seems to be red hot after driving it. Pipes, rocker etc are too hot too touch almost but temp gauge sits halfway
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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You could put a new thermostat in for piece of mind ad they are cheap and easy to change. Try getting one that opens at a lower temperature as there's normally a choice.
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 06:23 AM
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Its had a few new thermostats tbh. Im going to bleed it today and see what happens
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 07:23 AM
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I started it up and took off cap and thin top hose to the header tank and let it warm up.

Should there be water coming through the top hose when engine is running? Water only came through when i squeezed the main hose going to the radiator!
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 09:22 AM
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Top hose is the return iirc. Let it get to temp with the cap off, when the fan kicks in that should be enough. I wish bleeding my celica was that easy
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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So once it gets hot then water should come through the return......
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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air in the system.
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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Just ran it up to halfway now and finally water did start to come through the return although it was boiling hot.

Ran it for 15 mins with the cap off and didnt see any air bubbles etc

Anymore ideas or shoiuld it be fine?

Dont really trust the old temp gauge tbh!
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