SEE THE LAST POST

dave

 

If your getting bangs I would say your getting both a spark and fuel. Their could be many things that I would check.

Plug caps,
HT Leads in correct order and in FWO,
Rotor Arm in FWO,
Cap in FWO,

Cam belt timing is ok and has not slipped.
All sensors connected ok,
No air leaks,

The paddle on the metering head is not jammed.

fwo-full working order.

 

cheers mate i think all are in working order as i have changed thim with known working parts and to no avail

 

possibly ignition timming/cam timming as said spark n fuel seem apparent if u get a lil burble? any idea why it stopped working, did u change ought or give it some before parking it up?

 

the fooker gave up working last july

it was running ok then it started cutting out, it would cut out at any time, the revs would go to zero and that was it, even if you tried to let the clutch out to jump it ti wouldn,t do shit. it would on start agin once stopped then you turned the key and broom away it went.

then in july it cut out and i managed to get it started drove home ok turned it off and next thin the ting wont start and it hasn,t since.

fookin thing

dave

 

try bridging the relay
if it still wont start hold the flap down a bit on the metering unit

 

forgot to say the battery light is staying on and thats with a fresh charged battery

nige will try that cheers

 

When the battery light stays on it normally means that the alternator is not charging the battery, so something is wrong in the electrical circuit.

Did you check the voltage? Should be about 11.5 Volts with engine off and about 13.5 with engine running (I know I know, its not running).

Check the fuel pump relay (I believe this normally is purple and hidden under your dash). Normally when you switch on the ignition, you should hear the fuel pump for about 1-2 seconds and than it stops (sytem has its normal pressure). If there is nor short noise or the pump starts working constantly, something is wrong with it.
May be you can borrow it from someone to try.

Good luck!!

Cheers

 

fuel pump is priming ok

battery power is about 12volts before and after i try to start.

fooking thing

gonna scrap it and flog the bits on ebay for thousand and thousands and thousands of pounds

cheers

 

I have posed the problem on a Dutch Ford site, maybe something comes up.

Cheers, Dimitri.

 

sounds like some sort of wiring problem, have a look under the fuse box to see if you've got some melted wires also check you've got a feed to the ecu & no breaks in the green wire that goes between ecu,coil, dizzy & rev counter.

or if you cant be bothered how much for the car ?

 

Are you sure you have the correct firing order?
Wrong firing order may cause bangs in the exhaust (and not running).

Cheers.

 

i would check cam timing mate, sounds like what mine done, or as above the correct firing order

 

As someone mentioned before the battery light oftensignals problems with the alternator...i would check all the earths to be honest

 

Do a compression test as well.

 

check ignition timing and the metering unit....

 

cheers for the help peeps

will see what happens im of on hols in a couple of weeks.

it will start by the end of it!!!!!!!!

 

And yet another thing to check:

are you sure there's not an air leak somewhere?
Maybe some of the air hoses are torn and RST's do certainly NOT like air leaks.

The way you describe the problem in the first place suggests is was running properly and then the strange noise began. After that you were able to get the car started and you drove it home. Did the engine run OK at that moment?

Cheers.

 

did you mark where the old dizzy was and align the new one to the same place if not timing will be all screwed up worth lookin at somebody elses to get a rough idea

 

i drew round the old distributor and marked the notch, would it be possible to put the bit that tune that fits to the enging on the wrong way ie so the rotor arm is at 180degrees that where it should be???? such as it should be pointing at the lead nr 1 instead of lead nr 3
firing order of the dizzy

1 - 2
3 - 4

if you undertsand that??

 

right then

i connected a test lamp to the green wire to the coil negative. and connected that to the battery negative connect and cranked the engine.. the light stayed on then when i cranked the engine the light flashed but the light was constanlty on ie it never went completley out just flashed a bit brighter is this right ???

 

I'm afraid I cannot help you with the test lamp.

The firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2.
Cilinder 1 is nearest to cam belt.

When no 1 is in Top Dead Center, 4 is also is TDC. Either 1 of them should be fired at that moment, not 2 or 3!!

Check for correct cam belt placing:
The groove on the alternator pulley should match a "0" mark on the cam belt cover.
Or with the cover removed: the mark on the cam pulley should match the mark (small "dot") on the head.

Don't forget to check for airleaks too!

Cheers

 

i dont think u can put the dizzy in 180deg out but i know that you can get the cap on 180deg out ive done it before not on my rs on another cvh not sure about the test lamp easiest way is to is to do as bd says above lign up the bottom timing mark to the 0 on the cover check it on the top pulley against the head if im right in thinkin that should be no1 so take off the dizzy cap and start from there 1-3-4-2 round the cap if you are unsure which way to go turn the engine with a spanner on the bottom pulley think this is right then you know its all in the right order if you need any pics just ask

 

i think i have all the leads connected up ok

the dizzy runs anti clockwise so it fire 1,3,4,2 which i got. i think its more of an electrical problem than timing, as there aint a spark at the plugs hence why need to know the coil light thing

cheers

fooking thing

 

spark at the coil lead or not ?

 

arrrh, im confusd, think we should start from the basics and work our way from there. pain in the ass man, hope u get it sorted, looks a minter of a car. fancy a swap with a runner? lolol

 

Car cut out when on boost, parked, idle, light throttle ect (i.e. anytime it liked) but if you turned the ignition off and restarted it was ok then it cut out and only started with a struggle (backfires very erratic revs cutting out etc) then it ran fine till I got home let it idle for 30mins stopped the car, went out 10mins later and it wouldn’t start at all this was last July!!


Have changed the following
Coil, dizzy, rotor arm, plugs, leads, 2 used ecus, 1 fuel ecu, 2nr coils 1 grp A, 1 battery.

The engine cranks but does not fire. It some times gives a burble and then backfires.

1. the battery light is continuously on
2. no spark at coil
3. lamp fitted to coil continuously on when connected to green coil and battery negative. When cranking the engine the light stays on but flashes (it does not flash on and of like an indicator)
4. there is power to the ecu
5. the battery has 12V
6. have checked for air leaks none found.
7. there is petrol in it.
8. the fuel pump primes but is more of a BZZZZZZZZT rather than a quick BZZT.
Hope this helps its driving me daft.

dave

 

how did you check there is no spark at the coil was it against the block it could be there is a bad earth maybe try puttin a jump lead across from the battery to the block and also a new alternator maybe ,some of my suggestions might sound daft but from previous exp could be somethin and nothin so much easier if you were near by ,just a thought but have you removed the little black thing in the wires to the coil forgot what it does but if it goes fooked can cause problems try bypassin it im as confused as you are defo sounds like electrical problem

 

managed to get a spark at the coil last night

the wire from the ecu to the coil was a bit thin so replaced and got sparks

but no spark to the plugs, so checked the multi plug on the top of the dizzy got good earth to the brown wire but as far as i can see no power????

any ideas

cheers

looks like im making some progress only taken me 8months

 

So now there are sparks at the coil, but not at the plugs.

I now you've replaced the distributor, but I suspect the small black block (sorry, don't know in English, something with Hall....) to be faulty.

Maybe you could check wether current from the coil is arriving at the dizzy at all.
If there is and the current stops there, something must be wrong with it.

Apart from that, you should do something about the alternator, a constantly lit battery light is not good. Means the battery loading circuit is having a problem somewhere.

Cheers

 

It lives

After almost a year the rs lives

The garage came round to collect it this moring and phone about 10mins ago to say it is running.

The guy said that the timing was way off? Haven’t a clue how that happened but it has now been sorted and a new belt,tensioner is getting fitted, then a service and mot and the boost will come.

Thanks to all how have helped me keep the faith and especially those below and if I have forgotten cheers lads

DazC
Vroom ptssssh - Dave
db

 

should of checked what i said mate, mine done the same thing!

 

i know mate but that was a bit beyond my technical incompetance, im a master of percussive maintenance but i did mention it to the garage and it was the second thing he checked after the alarm.

so cheers and thanks for the help


ps what would have caused the cam timing to change
d

 

could of slipped a few teeth on running

 

possibly the mechanic did say the pulleys were a bit loose/dirty
he is cleaning them up and tightning etc

but i s od that it used to conk out now and again then ran ok?

ah well at least it goes now!!! just in time for summer

 

mine was a few teeth out, wouldnt run very well from cold, then when warm drove ok, but no power at all, and gave a huge bang from exhaust when switched off!...

Lucky u didnt bend a valve, i was lucky with mine and i had just spent 3k on a rebuild!

 

lucky is not the word

as you said it could ahve been a sore one