anyone had 1 on here?

the car will go into the red after ticking over or driving it within 15mins,then i shut off so never been roasted

ive changed the water pump,thermostat,viscous coupling on fan,and bled the system to death with front end up high

thing is i really dont think its head gasket

it doesnt over pressure up,no leaks,no oil in water or water in oil

engine runs sweet aswell

 

and the rad looks very recent

 

Do the heaters blow hot when it's up to temperature?

 

I have seen this problem before and everytime it has been down to a very small crack between the valves. Its so slight that it will fool you to think the gasket is fine and your right it is but its just enough to put that bit more pressure on the system and send it in the red. Pull the head off and get a pressure test done on it because all the heads i have done ended up scrap.

Hope this helps

 

you need to find out if it has nikoseal liners
its a common problem on the nikoseal linered bores
its sumfin to do with cracking
bmw changed the material it was made from because it was a known problem

i may have that the wrong way round, it may be that they changed it TO nikoseal liners to fix the problem, i'm not 100% sure
but i think its the way i said it 1st time

 

richiest........no there is no hot air through blowers whatsoever,but fan speed is fine so not hedehog thing,ive changed heater control valve,still no heat inside

bigjohn0 you could be in with a shout there mate......new engine then?

jamie its the later alisil 1998 on engine without nikasil issue the m52

 

Is it not the temp sensor giving a false reading?

Worth a check before pulling the head off.

Does it boil over?

 

ive never let it boil over bram as soon as it said red ive turned it off,didint want to risk further damage

all bmws ive had the gauge has sat dead centre when upto temp,viscous fan was shot i can notice the diffrence with the new one if i try to stop it

 

Work mate had it on his and it was the head gasket! My mate who works for woods in basingstoke did it he said there common

 

Head gasket....

 

It could as you later said be a air lock as your heater doesn't go hot. This is either fixed by vacuum filling the system at the beginning so definatly no air locks! or a small crack in the head or a gasket leak!

have you been able to presure test both the cyinders and the coolant system when engine running? I know the last one is a pig but worth it. if so what are your readings as someone on here will be able to give you a heads up!

 

They are a pig to bleed no doubt but mine was a scrap block after a head change where the fucking mong that did it never noticed it had a hairline crack (was the earlier motor though).
I put a 325 m50 in it,simple conversion only difference is the lambda sensor is zirconia instead of Titania and needs swapping.
Did you remember to put the heaters on hot before you filled the system and had the ignition switch set to batt lights/oil light on but not running?
That makes sure the matrix is filled as well.
They take 11.5 litres of coolant and bleeding can be a complete nightmare,I had the same issue on the 325 motor but I've done it so many times now it's quite easy,make sure you put slightly less coolant in than needed,say 10 litres as often there's coolant hidden in pipes etc,I mean I swapped the whole motor on both cars,drained nearly a bucket of coolant,went to til the motor right back to fit it and about another 4 litres poured out!!!!

To bleed it,put in about 6/7 litres of coolant with the bleed screw off,make sure heaters are as above,coolant cap on the fire up the beast and let it get to about halfway,you should feel the coolant into the right hand pipe to the thermostat getting very hot then the left pipe should start to heat up as the thermostat opens.
You'll need to have kept the bleedscrew on loose and chances are by now it will be like a boiling kettle,so be careful but let the steam boil off,it will take what seems like forever.
Your temp should be staying around halfway throughout this.
Once it starts showing signs of just bubbles coming out of the screw,tighten it back up and check your fill level,chances are its down a bit so top it up a bit,about a litre or so.
Get back in the car and check your temp and heaters,my guess is they'll be cold or very poor.
There's a good chance it's still full of air so rev it to about 3000 and hold it there,shove your heaters up to demist and they should start getting very hot,let the revs drop to idle and they should stay as warm,if not,carry on adding water and try again.
Once their good on idle,leave it run a bit and try the bleedscrew again,my guess is it will still be spitting a bit of air out,it may still be hot so be careful.
Leave the screw off and rev it from the manifold,you should see coolant flowing through the screw as well.
By now I'd switch it off and leave it cool for a bit,leave the screw off for now.
Go and check a few hours later,I'll guess the level will be pretty low.
Top it to the right level,let it bleed out through the screw as well then put the screw back on and go for a drive,everything fingers crossed will be ok but as another precaution when you get home,leave it cool,leave the cap off overnight to expell any more trapped air and as stated above hopefully your good to go.
Failing that you'll be looking at engine work and very rare do you find a good second hand 2.8 lump,well I couldn't for a price worth paying plus the fear is always that it won't be long before it goes again.
I couldn't be bothered with that again so spent Ł350 on a running 325i auto with tax and test,used it for 6 months,pulled the bits I wanted,sold the rest for Ł150 plus kept a few nice buts like m3 lights etc so the car stood me Ł200.
Also my rad was fubared and the 328 needed a new starter,alternator and battery which the donor supplied so effectively a free conversion.
Plus if the head gasket goes on this then I know it's just a skim and new gasket while the iron block is unnaffected.
Just a thought.

 

Sorry re read above,you'll need 11.5 litres but as stated a good chance there's already at least 1.5 litres in there hence its easy to overfill and your back to square 1.

 

genuine thermostat ? pattern ones in these engines are pants

 

thanks for above ideas etc

i took stat housing off today and stat has been butchered ie guts taken out,but that doesnt effect the over heating

i replaced pollen filter,new stat and metal housing in place of the plastic junk and couldnt believe it the metal 1 cracked tightning it up,need to take it back to eurocarparts mon

think im going to buy 1 of these kits to test if head gasket/cylinder head cracked,as im getting pissd off with it now,i like the car and might try find a cheap 528/728 to rob engine from

 

The 328's the cheapest variant mate,plenty out there below Ł500 but I'd wanna see it running and driven about hard for at least 30/40 mins to bring out any issues.

That's a poor showing on the thermo housing,I broke a plastic one before by not aligning it right.

If its a keeper either go for an s50 motor from the e46 or the iron blocked bombproof m50,I saw no difference in power after the conversion plus now my temp never goes over 1/2 way even in traffic.

 

i know but the majoritie of 328s for around the Ł300-500 mark are the pre 98 nikasil ones mate

will the e46 twin vanos fit with no hassle? ecu etc?

 

i found the 325 being more top end happy revving where as the 2.8 has more low down torque

 

Just seen this of its any good?

http://retrorides.proboards.com/inde...&thread=142607

 

mate could be an air lock in the radiator preventing water to the block.theres a bleeder screw beside the radiator cap undo it until water comes through and screw it back up

 

torque settings and sequence for e36 325i anyone????????