Hi guys been looking at evo 8s, but really like the look of the 5/6s too, is there anything to look out for on these apart from the Active yule (if thats how you spell it lol) and clutches?

this is the sort of model id be looking to buy:

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/4014035.htm

Want to know EVERYTHING about them before i start looking!

Many thanks Adam.

 

Ive had a couple now and unfortunately one of the biggest problems nowadays is rust. Check the underside very carefully.

Make sure it's had a set-up recently. My last one had a Ralliart map on it but the fuel pump was struggling and running lean. Knew what I was buying tho and got it replaced then remapped. A 360bhp Evo 6 with similar torque is a quick car on the b roads.

 

Active Yule only really becomes an issue around Christmas time for some reason.






Cheers,
Grant

 

Lol

 

Rust rust and more rust.

 

Fucksake I should of paid more attention in school

 

Im an expert in that owning a RS turbo

 

Thanks for that info.

 

had mine since septemeber and is faultless

any with ayc light on leave well alone, make sure thelight comes on and goes off when started

servicing is the big key to the engines they need to be done regular, cambelts have two belts so these can get expensive

the ayc isnt a problem, you have 3 oils, hydraulic - which controls the pumps for ayc, you only need to change this is you change the pumps as these are what brings yyour ayc light on, but its a sepcialist job to bleed the system

then you have the ayc clutch, this needs to be changed regular, or every time you go round a corner the rear diff will sound like a donkey

then you just have your normal gear oil

clutches, get one with an uprated clutch already, mines has a flywheel and paddle clutch off an 8

body wise, wings and bonnet are alloy so no rust issues there, arches dont tend to hold dirt behind kit either, its mainly underneath due to no wax oil so check carefully, espeially by the rear mounts for rear beam

the weak point on engines is conrods, so try and get one thats had a forged engine fitted or at least evo 8 rods and pistons, simple remap, exhaust filter will give 360bhp, reliabl and ready to take a kick in

gearbox you dont have worry about

interior, the 5s are better seats, one being black and grey, the 6s have a net over them (same seats) that wears and looks horrible, though the rear seats tend to turn purple due to sun fade

brakes are good, but an upgrade kit is only £900 for 8 pots and 360 discs

body wise the 5/6 arethe same bar front numper and rear spolier, 5s look more agreesive its why i went for one

i think the 6 had a bigger oil cooler and some other bits but nothing major or that you cant buy cheap

parts are resonable aswell prices aswell even new items

door cards the cloth is shite and peels off aswell

its like most old cars, get the best you can for your budget, but there are some bargains out there, they do exactly whats on the tin, excellent cars ill admit, but dont expect them to feel like a cossie if thats what your used too, there a lot more refined even on coil overs lol

proberbly loads more but take your time and shop around, also black, yellow and red, are optinonal extra colours only in 5s

 

Blimey! you know your onions!
Im buying one so i have a reliable daily
Hence why i dont want a saph and am using my RS turbo for a weekend toy, again many thanks!

 

enjoy the fuel costs lol

 

Im bracing for that!, my mates one does 100 miles to a tank!

 

noise from front end(front diff bolts can break on early evos),gears crunching,ayc lights on,rear diff is weak point if high power or launching it,fuel filler necks rot & check rear chassis leg area for rot,make sure its had recall on rear suspension arms as these can crack

 

hi mate before i got my e6 i went miles looking for a good one and beware of rust , you need to take a trolly jack and get underneath there bad for oil leaks on the transferbox as the the transferbox is a ball ache to get out!! con rods are good up to 380bhp well they say there good for just under the 400bhp mark but yr right on the edge, the standard pistons with say knorris rods are then good for 550bhp thats what knorris told my mate who had his e6 done with him and standard cranks are good for massive bhp!! my e6 with 366bhp is a proper handfull on the B roads!! be prepared to put silly money in v power!! drinks fuel even if i keep it off boost it was still a joke.. but pound for pound i still think there the best all round 4x4 for ya money, ow and cosworth now make around 80% of the 4g63t now, they make a short block, pistons, Race bearings the lot but again it will cost you big money over oem stuff!!
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...7-p-35085.html
nearly $2ooo

 

forgot to say the 4g63t is one of the easiest engines ive ever worked on, goes together like lego very very simple , forget about people saying about high service costs just learn how to do it your self like i did!! its very easy!! there is nothing hard about a evo ive built my last evo 6 engine up from the crank ..pm me if you want the workshop manual , again the manual gives you all part numbers for every nut and bolt and washer ..simples!! on a evo 6 you can go from 280bhp to 380 very easy with very little cost , boost controller and just a map.. sorry and fuel pump..

Andy

 

I looked at a 6 TME before buying my 8 FQ330. I hated it. I had loved 6's since my mate bought one at 18 months old. THey felt very dated though.

I then bought a 7 and an 8 and the 7 felt old versus the 8 even.

8 is MILES better IMO.

But it's all personal preference.

 

Evo 8 are a stunning looking car. Im not keen on the luck of the 5 n 6.

 

Also, if you buy an evo I reccomend you get yourself one of these!

http://www.shell.co.uk/home/content/.../loyalty_tpkg/

 

most things been covered;

I would only buy one with a good history most owners really look after them well (go to MLR for sale section)

Check

start from cold noisy lash adjusters (sounds like noisy tappetS)
clonks and knocks on full lock (try some 3 point turns) = could be diff bolts, ARB bushes/drop links/top mounts etc
difficult to get first or reverse = clutch problems and is a real pain to do a clutch on these
check for noise off the front when you lift on and off the throttle, like a diff whine = transfer box which again, pain in the neck job and tricky to find a decent 2nd hand one.

great cars just make sure you buy a good one.

 

If your gonna pick out the 2, get a 6 im not saying it cause Ive got one, but it's not called Evolution for the fun of it.
Had mine 4 years, im 2nd owner and I imported due to the tatty Uk cars I kept coming across, never bored of it just a shame I dont get a chance to drive it often,
6 has better Ecu, bigger intercooler, oil cooler, better pistons better aero also. Brembo also are revised also

Things to watch out for AYC pump and solenoid these trigger the light when on there way out, though they are easily repaired and can be reconditioned

Rust in the rear chassis legs, boot floor and inner front wings, where the spoiler meets the boot flexes so tend to start cracking at the join.
Diff bolts do go, but easily sorted
These cars do not like shit tyres on them
only run on super

There is more to learn about these cars but I could be here all day, feel free to Pm

The rear Arms had recalls and Lambda sensors, so check with Mitsubishi these has been sorted affects all cars.
I went through 3 clutches due to the power level I was at so went for a Alcon from a Fq400, which has lasted very well, but grabby in traffic situations.

There not cheap to run, lovely cars and plenty of fun, 400bhp+ & beyond not alot will stay with you.

There diiferent varients of the 6, GSR, RS, RS sprint, RSX, zero fighter, TME, well worth looking at which model may suit your needs.

 

all you need to know is that the car is dandelion yellow and the clutch does not slip

perfect

 

main things have been said like ayc but def check for rust ive just had one in and had to remove the whole rear end and remake the rear chassis and the rear of the rear arches worst ive seen on one,and be a little wary on any recently waxoyled prior to selling

 

Here was my first Evo V,well looked after up top:



But not underneath:





The car had 11 1/2 months MOT on it when I bought it.
It had been over here since 6 months old,so had seen a fair few of our winters I think!
The scary thing is these rot around the rear x-member/diff mounting points,as you can see in the pics above.
Someone had stuck a plate over a hole in the chassis with silicone then undersealed over the top of it!!!!
One thing to be aware of is freshly undersealed Evos,seems alot of owners just fire underseal over rust.

Anyway I broke the above Evo and bought a nice very low mileage VI shell,and its currently looking like this:

 

Kev that's lovely, Mine looks simular, still silver underneath.

What spec you going for?

 

Cheers Rob

Got a 2ltr forged eng,ARP bolts/head kit,BVH,Cams,FP green,750cc inj,hoping for a nice safe 450bhp.

Have removed all AYC/ABS wiring/sensors/ECU's the lot,running a Cusco LSD in the standard rear difff casing.

Got pics of yours? B)

Not many owners showing the Evo's undersides love TBH!

 

have a look at my e4 wish i had never sold it.. have a look how clean all the cambelt side was i stripped this to the crank .. lovely car to drive with e6 engine in e4, very good low down torque as it had the smaller e4 turbo on that spools up straight away!!
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=275457

 

and here for abit more break down on the build
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=265635

iv had the evo 3,4, and 6.. but now im gona look for a evo 7 or 8

 

looking at Kev`s underside pics shows just how advanced Evo`s are compared to the massey fergusen sierra/escort stuff is

i love Evo`s

 

The pictures of that Evo 5 should be shit scary to any prospective Evo owner, looks fantastic up top but a rusty raft underneath... and should further reinforce the need to take a trolley jack or get it in the air on a ramp when viewing one.


Cheers,
Grant

 

ive seen worse ones than that mate, was mot'ing one the owner was telling me how good of a car it was, how fast he had been in it and how its brakes could shred speed off due to there size, then i put it on brake tester, both rear metal brakes pipes birst due to being rotten and it had NO rear chassis legs left just scabs of rust and a bit of metal left were the rear suspension mounts. he wasnt happy when i told him it was basically scrap
and it needed a clutch too lol