in reality how soft are they, i hear they suffer from crank walkbut if one is built fresh can it be reliable at 280bhp??

 

it do over that 350 to 380 is considered safe but i your going to rebuild one then you might aswell forge it for what it costs and then 500+ bhp isnt a issue

 

i think they were 276 as standard so should be fine

 

bought mine with 800 miles on a BRAND new engine fitted by mitsi and it suffered from crank walk!!! the previous owner hadn't done the 500mile check so mitsi invalidated the warranty

11 clutches in 39k was a worry though lol

 

Dont be scared by crankwalk, Ive had my early evo for ~7 years now. Heavy abuse, twin plate clutch, full bore launches and still no issues.

 

ANIMAL..............

Surely after the second you must have thought, err, time for a stronger uprated one??

 

luckily i only owned it during 3 of them lol but had reciepts for the rest and found out it was changed a few times after i sold it lol

 

Can somebody explain what crank walk actually is?

It is invariably mentioned on every thread anywhere on the internet where Evo IVs are mentioned but I'm not sure exactly what the problem is, why it happens, how to tell if its starting to happen and so on...

 

I would also like to know what crank walk means. Anyone care to let us know and how it can be prevented from happening?

 

I think it where the crank moves side to side in the block.

 

correct its basically end float on the crank caused by the weaker main and end bearings in the block.

i has a 4 recently ran it at 360 with no problems at all and had a fair bit of abuse including at the 'ring a few times. an early sign is the crank pulley separating from the rubber damper. as mentioned from before if your building the just go forged or for a little cheaper fit 7 or 8 parts will handle 400/400 no problem.

 

Hi Guys thanks for all the replies,

whats the 500 mile check consist of????????????????



im told crank walk is where the crank shifts about as the previous poster has said, i bought my previous evo5 back 2 weeks ago and within an hour it threw a rod out thru the block, so i bought another engine and fitted it, my idea was to use this engine for a while as it was second hand etc and didnt trust it

heres where it gets weird

bought a second hand bare block for a forged rebuild, the engine number starts with CD with i think is a later block but unsure.


i was online one of our local websites and saw this evo 4 with a 5 engine rebuilt for 1800 euro, i said "bargain", rang the engine builder and confirmed it was all rebuilt as per what the seller said, on brining it home i see the engine number is TH which is a 4 engine and hence my question over crank walk, i bought it as a track slag only and felt if i rolled it etc the 5 engine as i thought inside it would be worth something.

so now i have a 5 with a secondhand engine im scared to blow up again, bought what i thought was a 4 with a 5 engine but now i fear its a 4 with a 4 engine , lol, is life ever simple,

heres my 5 after fitting the engine last weekend in one day

before blow up and stickering




after new engine and stickering up

 

think your on the MLR that is a really good site for advice. it is hard to trust a car when you have such a bad failure but not every one is the same. only trouble i has was a clutch slave cylinder.