Just converted my s2 to EFi used everything from a fiesta turbo, followed wiring diagram exactly but now i have no warning lights showing up on my dash when ignition is turned on and i have no reading at all on the rev counter, also the car will idle but wants to die when you rev it a little, need help coming to the end of my patients with the thing.

 

Okay mate, is thins on your fiesta or is this in an escort?

Double check your coolant temp sensor with a multimeter, ie the wiring going to it. The wire is brown/green so the same as the AMAL valve... easy mix up. Happened to a friend very recently.

Next, I would use a multimeter to buzz through to all sensors. Do you have a wide band lambda? if not these are very useful...

What warning lights are you missing? all of them?

Rob,

 

I just opened my eyes and saw this is for a S2 not the fiesta. But the above fault finding still applies.

It sounds really silly, but I had the most annoying dash problem for weeks, checked nearly all the wiring etc, in the end it turned out to be a dirty connector on the back of the dials well worth a check.

Rob,

 

No i dont have wideband lambda. Yeah none of the warning lights work, the baclight for the dash still works though

 

Double check your coolant temp sensor with a multimeter, ie the wiring going to it.

 

 

I would recommend getting a wide band, really really useful! What injectors are you using?

I would start by tracing back all your wiring with multimeter, start with the alternator wire (nice and easy), should be a blue wire iirc running from your alternator light back to the alternator, some people call it the 'run wire'... Then the oil pressure light etc. Its odd that its all the lights... this makes me suspect the connector not being plugged in properly or something along those lines.

Rob,

 

checked all the earths?battery terminals tight

 

Just checked connections on clocks no dirt there, all earths are connected. Which one is the coolant temp sensor, is it on the mfi wiring loom or the fiestas loom? Also i have no amal valve just a bleed valve

 

tap your rev counter signal into pin 10 on the edis module,this gives a clean rpm signal to the clocks this is what i did on my series 1 when i converted,

as said check your earths and your switched lives

 

Sounds like none of the sensors have been connected to the FRST loom.

Pin 11 is clean tacho output.

Lee

 

How do you mean mate? I dont understand what is missing as i followed the wiring diagram from the sticky thread

 

Have you removed any of the old loom? Are the sensors still connected to the old S2 engine loom or have you connected all of the plugs on FRST loom to the sensors?

Lee

 

The old loom is still on the car i havent cut any wires from that. And ive just connected all the plugs from frst loom onto the sensors

 

And have you connected the new loom to the clocks?

Rob,

 

I take it that you're just missing the oil pressure warning light? That's the only one connected to the FRST loom. It's pin 6 of the multi plug and it goes to the back of the clocks, can't remember which wire.

Lee

 

Cheers i have wired pin 6 to the oil pressure switch on the block, is this correct? I dont have battery light either.

 

this is the pin out for ofac:

OFAC
1, Red -- +ve
3, Brown/Yellow – octane / idle adjust
4, Brown/White – speed sensor
7, Brown/Green – engine temperature sender
16, Brown – current return & 40
17, Brown/Green – diagnostics connector
20, Brown – current return
21, Brown/Yellow – idle speed valve
22, Brown – fuel pump relay
23, Brown/Red – octane / idle adjust
24, Brown/Blue – octane / idle adjust
25, Brown/Yellow – air temp sensor
26, Brown/Black – throttle sensor & co adjust pot & map sensor
27, Brown – CO adjust potentiometer
28, Blue/Yellow – Pin 2 on edis (disconnected)
33, Brown/Green – Boost control valve
36, Blue/Red – Pin 3 on edis
37, Black – idle speed valve & injectors & Speed sensor & Boost control (tbc) & 57
40, Brown – current return & 16
45, Brown/Yellow – map sensor
46, Brown – map sensor & engine temp & air temp & throttle & CO adjust
47, Brown/Green – throttle sensor
48, Blue/Green – diagnostic connector
56, Blue/Yellow – Pin 1 on edis
57, Black – idle speed valve & injectors & Speed sensor & Boost control (tbc) & 37
58, Brown – Injectors
59, Brown – Injectors
60, Brown – current return

-------------------------
do you have any wiring diagrams ? if you need som pm me and I will see what I can do !

 

Hmm that don't sound right. There is a connector on the FRST loom that connects to the oil pressure switch. That diagram should show pin 6 connecting to the oil pressure light on the dash.

Battery light wire runs straight from the alternator, light blue wire.

Lee

 

pin 11 on the edis module is clean rpm fir non efi clocks

 

Cheers mate Seems this is where i have gone wrong, cant remember seeing oil pressure switch wiring but it must be there as i removed the whole engine loom from a running frst, might be hidden behind the block somewhere ill crack on with that tomorrow, just need to know which colour wire to tap pin 6 into on the back of my clocks

 

Lifted this directly from RS Bible :



Key:
1: ECU
2: MAP sensor
3: Diagnostics connector & CO Idle adjust connector
4: Current return
5: EDIS-4 connector
6: Crank Position Sensor
7: Connector to engine loom (injectors etc)
8: Speed Sensor
9: DIS Coil
10: Oil pressure switch
11: Amal Valve
12: Current return
13: Idle Speed Control Valve
14: CO Adjust POT
15: Connector



Looking onto the engine loom connector

Pin 1: Ignition Live
Pin 2: Pin 22 (ECU) to the Fuel Pump Relay
Pin 3: Fed From DIS coil pack to the Rev counter
Pin 4: Pin 20 (ECU) Current return
Pin 5: Pins 57 & 37 (ECU) to the Fuel injection Relay
Pin 6: Oil Pressure
Pin 7: B+ (Constant Live)

I don't have a haynes manual to hand to look at mate so I couldn't tell you the wire colour.

Lee

 

Cheers Lee, sorted.