Amal valve - Noticed mine is missing
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Amal valve - Noticed mine is missing
Can someone just confirm if I actually NEED an amal valve on my RS Turbo?
The vac pipe seems to go from the actuator straight to the turbo. The wire is in the bay for the valve, but the valve isnt there.
Do I really need one? Or should I have a bleed valve in there somewhere?
The vac pipe seems to go from the actuator straight to the turbo. The wire is in the bay for the valve, but the valve isnt there.
Do I really need one? Or should I have a bleed valve in there somewhere?
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From: brigg
a lot of people dont use them. be sure the stub at the metering head is blanked off though. im sure it will be if someone has removed it. the amal ha 3 ports/ actuator/housing and vent to atmospere(stub at metering head). the amal will cut boost if the ecu detects a problem. without it theres no safety cutoff. with appropiate gauges and a feel for whats going on the amal isnt needed imo
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From: brigg
yes mate. the minimum boost (amal switched off) would be dictated by the actuator. the boost via amal will be whatever its set to bleed (depending on jet). iyts a handy mod if your on the motorway/cruising ect. make sure the fuelling is safe at the higher boost your going to run.
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Awesomesauce.
I will get one purchased off eGay then
PS, anyone got a wiring diagram on how to do this and what relay to use? Thanks
I will get one purchased off eGay then
PS, anyone got a wiring diagram on how to do this and what relay to use? Thanks
Last edited by PhilCook; Mar 8, 2012 at 11:01 AM.
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Jim, cheers for that. I assume C goes to turbo, not intercooler? lol
its holding 10psi at the mo, but wanted to get it set up for say.... low: 7psi / high: 15psi
its holding 10psi at the mo, but wanted to get it set up for say.... low: 7psi / high: 15psi
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
as per PM:
the ECU pulses is the original feed from the ECU.
the way it works as standard is that the ECU pulses a signal to the valve making it "flap" open and closed really quick.
its up to you if you use a 3way switch or a 2 way switch and what connections you use, the thing is purely mechanical so wont break anything.
just remember when you add the value yuo will INCREASE the boost so you will need to adjust your actuator preload to make sure it's still hitting the same MAX boost.
also is your RST a special spec of any kind with special modifications to the fuel ECU to run loads of boost? if so you dont want to REDUCE the oost pressure.
if its a normal RS turbo with simply a chipped ECU and standard MFI setup it'll be fine
the way it works as standard is that the ECU pulses a signal to the valve making it "flap" open and closed really quick.
its up to you if you use a 3way switch or a 2 way switch and what connections you use, the thing is purely mechanical so wont break anything.
just remember when you add the value yuo will INCREASE the boost so you will need to adjust your actuator preload to make sure it's still hitting the same MAX boost.
also is your RST a special spec of any kind with special modifications to the fuel ECU to run loads of boost? if so you dont want to REDUCE the oost pressure.
if its a normal RS turbo with simply a chipped ECU and standard MFI setup it'll be fine
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