Escort van won't start.
Iv recently changed the engine in my escort van its a year 2001 on a y
When you turn ignition on all lights on the dash light up. When you go for start they go out?
I'm getting a fault flash on the immobiliser light of 3 then 1 then off. Then repeats 3 - 1
Any ideas?
When you turn ignition on all lights on the dash light up. When you go for start they go out?
I'm getting a fault flash on the immobiliser light of 3 then 1 then off. Then repeats 3 - 1
Any ideas?
took this from the net if its any help
the flash code consists of two groups of flashes (one set for each digit of the code) so * ** will be code 12
if you mis-count don't worry they are cycled ten times - or just start again
if the LED flashes rapidly the vehicle is immobilised
codes and definitions are:-
11 - immo control module not connected (wiring, reader coil connection, control module connection etc)
12 - immo control module not working correctly (duff immo module)
13 - key code not received or key programming failed (faulty key or key obscured)
14 - partial key code received (faulty or obscured key)
15 - key not programmed into immo module (reprogram or try different key)
16 - faulty link between immo module and ECU (wiring fault)
21 - less than three keys programmed (program more keys as necessary)
22 - ROM error - no ECU ID stored (duff ECU)
23 - ECU ID mismatch (duff ECU)
31 - code transmission error between immo control unit and ECU (wiring or ECU programming error)
32 - ECU/immo control unit comms - no response from ECU (wiring, immo control module)
33 - comms error (wiring, duff ECU or duff immo control unit)
the flash code consists of two groups of flashes (one set for each digit of the code) so * ** will be code 12
if you mis-count don't worry they are cycled ten times - or just start again
if the LED flashes rapidly the vehicle is immobilised
codes and definitions are:-
11 - immo control module not connected (wiring, reader coil connection, control module connection etc)
12 - immo control module not working correctly (duff immo module)
13 - key code not received or key programming failed (faulty key or key obscured)
14 - partial key code received (faulty or obscured key)
15 - key not programmed into immo module (reprogram or try different key)
16 - faulty link between immo module and ECU (wiring fault)
21 - less than three keys programmed (program more keys as necessary)
22 - ROM error - no ECU ID stored (duff ECU)
23 - ECU ID mismatch (duff ECU)
31 - code transmission error between immo control unit and ECU (wiring or ECU programming error)
32 - ECU/immo control unit comms - no response from ECU (wiring, immo control module)
33 - comms error (wiring, duff ECU or duff immo control unit)
Balls. I bought the van with a duff engine and the pump had been removed. He said he sold the pump off the engine? That couldn't of been good to anyone them if it's coded to that engine?
http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/2x...1-starter.html
Then here;
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...rt-immobiliser
Post 7 and 8,
.
Then here;
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...rt-immobiliser
Post 7 and 8,
.
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on the pump there is the metal box with the wire (where the stop solinoid should be ) is for the coded key. cut the box off with a grinder to reviel the stop solinoid which you can then connect your existing wire to.
or you would need the key key reader and ecu from donor vehicle
or you would need the key key reader and ecu from donor vehicle
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: dunfermline
I take it it's a diesel yeah. Should still turn over even if the pump is different. Look for the black and red thickish (4/5mm) wire up by the battery with a connector on it this is the starter wire test it there to see if there's power when turning key to start if there is could be starter even try putting a live to it. It still could be recognising pump fault for lights. Worst case just wire this wire straight to the ignition (start position) and do the same to the pump, (but to ignition position) remove the metal security cover on the pump to expose the solenoid then replace it with the earlier type which just needs a live.
on the pump there is the metal box with the wire (where the stop solinoid should be ) is for the coded key. cut the box off with a grinder to reviel the stop solinoid which you can then connect your existing wire to.
or you would need the key key reader and ecu from donor vehicle
or you would need the key key reader and ecu from donor vehicle
Just do the first bit and take the metal cover off the side as above,
Then just replace the fuel stop solinoid with one that has 1 terminal on top.
Ask at your motor factors and they can sort it.
Shouldn't cost much either.
All it does on the diesel's is hold the fuel stop on the pump so it will not start and Does no give you a 12v feed to the starter switch , i have to do this on my step dads transit for the same reason , go to the back of the ignition barrel and there are around 4 to 6 wires on the back of it . find the wire that gets 12v when you have the barrell in the crack position . tap into that wire ,then run a wire from there to the starter motor but make sure you fuse it . Then find a wire on the back of the barrell that is live when the ignition is on position 2 (when all dash lights are on ) and goes out once you take the key out , tap into it and run another wire to the fuel pump stop wire (12v wire not the earth) and fuse it some were , with that the van will start . Rich.
Iv copied this and got it turning over. just want to do the bit he said with the stop wire (12v) but out of the pump there is 3 wires?
anyone know which on of those is the one in question? or do I have to remove the solenioid??
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