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braided brake hoses to rear calipers

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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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Default braided brake hoses to rear calipers

right, so im replacing all the copper lines on the s2, doing away with the diagonal split, and fitting the car out with full braided brake lines

what im wondering is, for the rears, i will be running a single line to the rear seat area, and then a t-piece, and a line to each caliper.

but, on each of these lines to the rear calipers, can they be a single length, secured to the body up until the rear arm area, and then continued flexi to the caliper. or do i need to add a join in there, so the flexi section to the caliper is its own short run?

might sound silly, but just dont know if theres any rules and regs on this, and to be honest, doin it without a join would save me buying another 4 fittings, cos they aint bloody cheap!
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Mine are straight from the caliper to a T Peice on the bulkhead then to the master cylinder. It will be fine that way.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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nice 1 dude, just what i wanted to hear

what u using to fix your braided hoses to the body? rubber lined p-clips, or hose separator clamps?
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RSandy
nice 1 dude, just what i wanted to hear

what u using to fix your braided hoses to the body? rubber lined p-clips, or hose separator clamps?

I haven't decided yet. I've got a bag of plain plastic P clips whihc fit perfectly though so might use these.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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yeah i was gonna use p-clips, but just phoned james listers and they work out at about a quid each for proper rubber lined jobbies! lol fuck that, gonna need a fair few from front to back, was expecting to get a big bag of em for a tenner or something lol
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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The plastic ones were about Ł3 for 50 or something lol. If the break i'll just replce them. I was going to drill the floor every 4-6 inches and run a tap through them then bolt them down with cap head bolts. Should look quite good.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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i was just gonna drill my floor and rivet the p-clips like u say about every 4 or so inches, but at them prices i think id have to try and extend that to every 12 inches or so

will have a shop around, see if i can find a place that does the metal p-clips with the rubber insert, but for slightly more reasonable prices in bulk
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Let me know how you get on. I wouln't rivet them though. If you needed to remove them or one broke it would be a right ball ache.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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The only reason for not doing it is if you need to replace one section in the future... unlikely but it would save you replacing the hole lot.

Also, solid lines give a better pedal feel, I've done away with the diagonal split but used copper (and original steel) where i can, with braided sections going to the callipers/slaves.

But using braided lines the whole way will be MUCH easier!

Rob,
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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i was planning to do copper lines all around the fuel tank area, but realised im going to need the same amount of stainless fittings for the flexi sections, so might aswel just pay a few more quid, grab a bit more braided, and then the whole car is done

kind of tempted to do braided fuel lines now aswel, this is gettin a bit addictive
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