been looking for some DS2000 or similar for the work hack after very nearly rear ending someone today, the fucker just wouldnt stop from about 20mph!

had to use the wand lol, which luckily is pretty brutal!

the brakes have not been great since ive had it (2 months) so gonna look at getting some better brakes on it.

so what would you suggest?

dont want to spend much of course as its just used for work, about 100 miles a week. might see about nailing the brembos off the 3dr on it lol.

gonna start with the brake fluid as i doubt thats been changed in a good while

so, what pads are there to use? the discs are still in good condition so will probably leave those.

cheers

 

Don't Fiesta ST brakes fit straight on? If sticking with the same brakes Ferodos are good

 

i cant find any ferodos tho lol. dont want to change callipers/discs etc as i cant be arsed that much. i had esc cossie callipers/discs/pads on our old puma and they were fucking brutal. but i had to space the wheels out and cut the abs rings off to fit them, and dont want to do that with this one.

will keep the standard wheels and callipers if i can

 

Green stuff are good but give off quite a lot of dust

 

had them on a previous car and they were crap unless hot. i only do 10 miles each way, so 15 mins of driving

ive got some castrol srf brake fluid that ill use, and when bleeding i may as well make up some braided lines and fit those off the 3dr.

i also need to do the clutch at some point

 

Maybe new OE pads? I replaced my discs and pads on the ST3 with OE as they were good.

My mate used to have a standard puma and I don't remember thinking that the brakes were crap

 

how about mk3 mondeo calipers and focus st170 300mm discs, as with a little light reshaping of the outer edge of the caliper and re drilling the hub bolt holes out the fit behind 15" wheels, its a common conversion on the zetec s mk5 fiesta. I ve fitted this conversion apart from the caliper mods to my girlfriends mk6 zetec s fez as it running cossie wheels and it throws you into the seat belts well when you brake hard.

 

ive got a pair of st170 discs... hmm...

what sort of money do the mondy callipers go for?

i take it they fit straight on, but have a 12mm bolt hole instead of 10mm?

cheers mate.

 

thought about new OE pads too, will see what i can find!

 

Mintex 1144

 

Depends on where you get them from, I was lucky and got a pair from a low milage mondeo at a local breakers for Ł40,
you have to use the mondeo caliper mount bolts so the hub bolt holes need drilling to 13mm.
Even with cheap discs and pads they stop the girlfriends fiesta well from any speed, just make sure you wear your seat belt when you use them in anger, as when I did the conversion on the fiesta I took it to a local industrial estate to see how good they were and from 50 it tested the seat belts well

 

I put Mintex Xtreme on my std 260mm calipers on my old Puma and they never faded, even after going round the Nurburgring 8 times. Worked ok from cold too.

Not sure if you can get them still though.

 

cheers lads, well i found a 2.0l tdci mongo being borken in swindon, the guy wants Ł30 for the callipers and i already have the discs.... i think thats the way to go!

dont know if the pads are any good, but ill sort those once i have the callipers!

providing the tdci ones are the same??

and they deffo fit under the 15"s???????

puma dal, i was waiting for your input mate lol. the only pads i can find are parrtern ones, not anything decent for reasonable money.

 

All Mk3 calipers (front) are the same, even the ST ones.

You'll have to shave the Mk3 mundaneo calipers to get them to fit under 15s, up to you if you think that's a good thing or not.

Do the brakes feel spongy? Might be worth changing the brake fluid first before changing discs/pads/calipers.

 

dont feel spongy as such, they just dont stop the car

not worried about shaving the callipers as they are propper thick cast efforts, and it wont be around where the fluid goes anyway.

cheers for the info ill buy those callipers and get it done asap.

the wife has just gone out in it for the first time and just text saying the brakes are shit! i did warn her tho lol

still might see if the brembos have any chance of fitting lol

 

you really cant go wrong with the st170 discs and mondeo calipers on the pums, such a great cheap upgrade,

ive got the fitted to my track puma and with 180kg less than the standard puma there brilliant.

only had fade once on track on my 8th session of the day and they were the same set of pads which were on their 4th day so ill let them off lol.

obviously with braided lines you will get an even better pedal feel and ive got racing 5.1 fluid as well but for everyday driving and if you want to give it a good caining every now and then they work brilliantly.

i have the earlier servo as well, pre2000 which apparently gives a better pedal feel too.


heres a couple of pics.

 

nice one al, what rims are you running? did you need shave the callipers at all if using the std rims.

mine is a 2001 and doesnt have the shark fin wheels, they are like the millenium ones iirc.

ive got enough hose and fittings to make up braided lines all round so ill do that too.

as said, ill us the srf fluid aswell so fingers crossed that will do the job.

might sling it round a track then lol

 

yeah you wont go wrong, obviously 4 pots like on my racing puma still perform better but for the money you really cant complain, ive given mine some absolute abuse and they have held up very well.

id like to try some decent racing pads in though as i think that will make them better still.

i have mondeo si wheels, et35, 7j wide ones.









no shaving down needed but its literally two little lumps and a bit off the top of the caliper needed to be shaved off to fit under the puma 15's, but they do sit literally 1mm away from the wheel but look awesome .

ill find you a picture of the brakes under 15's.

 

cant find the pic anywhere mate, but they do fit .

 

I wouldn't use GREENSTUFF on a wheelbarrow, try the redstuff ceramic, or the yellowstuff, works awsome even from cold, the reds are a little dirty though.
I've used DS2000, and 2500, just no comparison, the the reds or the yellows, indeed the DS pads fitted to stu's M5 turned to weetabix flakes, he finished the ring on yellows which although new gave no issues from the word go.
I find the DS totally lacking in feel, the ebc's have awsome feel, work better when cold, and better when hot.
tabetha

 

cheers al, that looks sweet!

tabs, for theprices of the red/yellow stuff, ill try the bigger callipers first lol

going to pick them up later for Ł30 and litterally 3 miles away lol so cant go wrong.

might give them the once over with the bead blaster at work and see about fitting them next weekend. as i said, i have new st170 discs already, so would be silly not to!

 

my mate is sending me over a picture of his with the 15 inch wheels but i forgot to add, you will need to get the weights of the wheels put to the back edge of the wheel as they will not fit on the front edge as there is only around 2mm clearance .

 

i did wonder that mate cheers!

any pics would be good ta.

didnt get them tonight as the time he wanted me to go over was no good, so ill get em tomoz

 

picked the callipers up earlier, pads have got a fair bit of life left so will use them for now and see how i get on!

will take them in to work tomoz and set about stripping them down and bead blasting them lol. might paint them orange to lol

 

got these fitted today but couldnt do the braided lines as the fittings i have didnt fit the calliper properly so just used the original puma lines for now.

i also changed the fluid by draining the res from the o/s rear drum, then the o/s front before refilling and bleeding. this seemed to go to plan but now the pedal is going all the way down to the floor before it starts to brake hard!

i ran out of time so will rebleed it on sat and hope that cures it. it does lock up the wheel when you stand on the brakes so they are working to some extent and i only tested them from about 20 mph.

anyone have any other ideas incase its not the above?

cheers all

 

if you completley drained the resivoir there is a good chance that on the bleeding stage that you may have caused the seals on the master cylinder to turn round on themselves rare but does happen id try bleeding it again but if that doesnt work your looking at a new master cylinder

 

bollocks, dont tell me that

i used a vac bleeder off the compressor aswell

 

perhaps an air lock in the abs? if it has abs?

 

yes, has abs i did think of that, what would one do about that if thats the case?

i also had the rear beam on axle stands to open the load valves etc

 

i had a read up on bleeding abs a while ago and turns out you need to hook it up to a computer to make it cycle all the solenoids and even then it can take several attempts to bleed all the air out so sounds like a garage job

or

you might be able to get away with bleeding it best you can and then rip up some wet grass getting the abs to activate a lot and then rebleed but thats a HUGE faff!

 

bugger, my garden isnt that big

i thought that as it drained ok, it would refill ok

thing is, the pedal doesnt feel spongy and if pumped goes hardish but you can still press it to the floor.

i guess bleeding with the engine runninng wont make any difference?

 

wouldn't have thought engine running would make any difference tbh.

could the seals have flipped though if you bled using the vacuum pump???

i wish i could help further but cant i'm afraid i just remember it from changing my brothers master cylinder on his 02 megane coupe which brought some braking efficiency back (as in it now stops) but the pedal still feels crap. could be the fact its french though, i did tell him not to buy it or the pattern part is the wrong size. he hasn't had any problems though and doesn't hang about in it either but plan is to rebleed it using our new gunsen eezybleeder. never used one before and hoping the pressure might be enough to release any air locks.

incidentally does anyone know how the gunsen doesn't over fill the reserviour? or does it?

sory to thread hyjack fudge but it is sort of on topic

 

id say it needs a good bleed again.

 

phil, they can overfill the res, if its one of those ones you hook up to the spare tyre?

warren will do on sat when i get time for another go lol

cheers all

 

ah if you vac bled it you shouldnt have flipped the seals allthough if the pedal is travelling all the way down you could! ive been in the trade 15 years and have never used a computer to bleed abs systems at all as never needed too
just re bleed starting from the furthest away from the master cyl which iirc on a puma will be o/s rear

 

cool, cheers mate.

i started with o/s rear, n/s rear, o/s front, n/s front. will give it another go as there was still air bubbles in the tube, but i put that down to the vac bleeder sucking air through the the threads on the nipples, as when i opened them with no hose on i just brake fluid coming out with no bubbles.

will try again with some tube and see if there is still air in them.

cheers mate

 

yes its that type, i will just have to have a play with it as loads of people have recomended it on this forum!


perfect person to ask this question to then.

have you ever had problems with bad bleeding when replacing master cylinders (in vehicles with abs) or when replacing abs pumps/modules? as new ones come dry.

 

they can be a pain in the ass to bleed from a completley dry system yes but perseverence pays off, i have an electric bleeder kit that i use so there is no chance of air or worse still water being pumped in like on vac/compressor systems, plus its powerful enough to have all four bleed nipples open at once till you start getting a bit of fluid through then do them one by one.
if you are really struggling you can bleed them by opening each union one by one on both the master and the abs pump till you get fluid at that union then move onto the next until you finally get down to the brake then bleed as normal. messy job tho lol! just try to keep the res full at all times
sometimes i find spinning the opposite wheel with the engine running helps as it thinks the wheel that isnt spinning is locked up and can get the actuators pulsing

 

what does the electric bleeder kit do then if it doesnt pressurise/vacuum the system then? does it pulsate the solenoids.

also, didn't think of spinning a wheel to trick the abs cheers

 

its an electric pump that sits in a bottle of brake fluid, it has a cap that fits airtight on the ressy then you fit a pipe from the unit with an airline type connection then just switch it on and it pumps the fluid in really simple thing really ive had it years i actually found it in a skip outside a garage lol, it didnt work at the time but only had a broken wire on it, ive never been able to find one for sale only similar ones online for about 400quid!!