botters

iTrader: (2)

http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/Sh...eeders_37.html

mines very similar to the one that is 12th down on this link just that mine has the fluid bottle and pump etc all in one unit

phil_focus

sounds like it does build pressure in the system then just using an electric pump instead of air pressure. the gunsen kit won't force air into the system unless you let the fluid level drop bellow the tube in the bottle. same as if your pump ran the bottle dry it would then pump air so should do the job just the same

interesting though, got any links to the £400 kits or a name so i can google it?

hope this info helps you fudge and hope you get the puma sorted ok

phil_focus

ah you aswered my question before i asked it

botters

iTrader: (2)

the bottle on mine cant pump dry as it has a float in it to switch itself off if the fluid gets too low, ill look at the exact make of mine tommorow when i pop down to my garage to avoid this royal wedding nonsense lol

phil_focus

oh thats a good idea, sounds like a good bit of kit and to get it for free is the icing on the cake. sorry

thanks for answering my questions anyway and i hope its helped fudgey too.

botters

iTrader: (2)

no problem glad to be of help feel free to drop us a pm if your ever stuck with owt if i dont know the answer ill know someone who will no doubt

phil_focus

thanks for the offer i will certainly keep you in mind

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I dont know if it will work with the brake system but ive done it this way a few times to bleed clutches. I use a little oil can and put brake fluid in it then put a bit of pipe on the end and attach it to the nipple(when open) and pump the oil can trigger to force fluid back to the master cylinder. I dont know if this would cause the seals in the mc to turn though.

S1

There must have been a problem with the brakes before for them to be so crap so although you've fitted bigger discs and calipers the original problem is still there. Is the servo working as it should, does it get a rush of air when you remove the vacuum pipe? M/C's are pretty cheap, might be worth replacing for piece of mind?

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

yes there was a problem with the original brakes, upon removing them i found that on both inner disc edges, about 1" all the way round was rusted off/missing, so the inner pads on both sides were only in contact with about half the disc face or less.

ill re bleed tomoz and report back lol, cheers for the tips lads

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

rebled today and all is well or maybe a bit tooo brutal now

infact the abs cuts in very easily now and the thing locks up if you brake moderatly hard now. i dont think the pirelli's on it are going to last long lol

phil_focus

you'll have to get some sticky rubber now mate and make full use of them

glad it just needed bleeding, easy job.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

yeah cheers mate. its predominatly my car to get back and forth from work, but i might try and do the odd track day with it too lol.

Oranoco

Are you kidding? I don't think I've used a worse pad. Nearly set fire to a set on my brothers 165 chipped Fiesta Turbo in just 3 heavy stops from 70 and they faded out to nothing.

Dan j

Do you have any pics of the 300mm brakes under your 15s fudgey

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

not at the mo mate, but ill try and get some. had to shave a little off the calliper to get them on tho.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

dan, sorry for the late reply mate.

just took some pics and they are not the best as its getting a bit dark lol