Miss firing!!
Had my car apart doing the tappets and putting new exhaust cam in over the past couple of weekends, got it back together last weekend started it and everything was fine. Started back up this weekend and sounded fine soon as you rev it up it was missing, checked spark plugs and they was all coked up bearing in mind I cleaned them up before refitting the weekend before and it has only run up to temp not drove anywhere.
Number 2 was wet, anyway done the test where you take the ht lead off and car runs rough, done it on number 1 and it went rough as it is supposed to, but number 2 the car didn’t get effected, number 3 and 4 were fine.
So tested the lead 2 and plug by trying on the suspension turret and it was sparking.
Friend of mine who used to be a mechanic has told me to get a compression test to see if that is ok.
Does this sound like a familiar problem?
Number 2 was wet, anyway done the test where you take the ht lead off and car runs rough, done it on number 1 and it went rough as it is supposed to, but number 2 the car didn’t get effected, number 3 and 4 were fine.
So tested the lead 2 and plug by trying on the suspension turret and it was sparking.
Friend of mine who used to be a mechanic has told me to get a compression test to see if that is ok.
Does this sound like a familiar problem?
If plugs have become coked up, started missing then became wet they never will recover.
I found with the std ecu on mine(L6) even when "set up" it was way richer than it needed to be, and this affected idling from cold especially, ie it didn't like it too much.
I would make sure everything is as it should be and check the phase alignment esp, if even one tooth out it will over fuel like there's no tomorrow.
That apart don't let it idle when not needed until at least the CO has been checked, or give a it a big foot every so often.
tabetha
I found with the std ecu on mine(L6) even when "set up" it was way richer than it needed to be, and this affected idling from cold especially, ie it didn't like it too much.
I would make sure everything is as it should be and check the phase alignment esp, if even one tooth out it will over fuel like there's no tomorrow.
That apart don't let it idle when not needed until at least the CO has been checked, or give a it a big foot every so often.
tabetha
Im on a l8 ecu, was mapped before i took it apart and was running fine, idles fine now to its just when you rev or drive the car it starts missing.
Whats phase alignment and how do i check it tabetha?
Cheers
Whats phase alignment and how do i check it tabetha?
Cheers
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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To check the phase sensor gap, pop the dissy cap off, get out your feeler gauges and turn the engine til the pointers meet the sensor, check the gap on both.
I would be double or thriple checking your timing too.
Or pop in a new set of plugs just to eliminate that.
I would be double or thriple checking your timing too.
Or pop in a new set of plugs just to eliminate that.
Thanks for that Fezman will give it a go this week.
Think as far as i know timing is spot on, but i could be wrong. Car wouldnt turn over or i would hear valves hitting pistons if it wernt surely?
Think as far as i know timing is spot on, but i could be wrong. Car wouldnt turn over or i would hear valves hitting pistons if it wernt surely?
Last edited by Pandauk; Feb 7, 2011 at 12:49 PM.
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It won't be the GAP on the phase sensor in the dizzy, but it's ALIGNMENT, that may have moved due to belt off etc.
To check line the cams and crank pulley up on the marks, then look at where the rotor arm is pointing, when you lift the shield under the rotor arm you will find a scribe line on the top lip of the dizzy body, the rotor arms path needs to be dead centre to this, even 1 tooth out here will cause serious grief.
On cams both pointers towards each other in line with "split" between head and cover and the crank pulley lined up on the LUG nearest the "V" groove, NOT the v groove itself.
tabetha
To check line the cams and crank pulley up on the marks, then look at where the rotor arm is pointing, when you lift the shield under the rotor arm you will find a scribe line on the top lip of the dizzy body, the rotor arms path needs to be dead centre to this, even 1 tooth out here will cause serious grief.
On cams both pointers towards each other in line with "split" between head and cover and the crank pulley lined up on the LUG nearest the "V" groove, NOT the v groove itself.
tabetha
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