hi, I have just been out and done 5 miles of hard driveing come back and left it tickover after about 15 seconds u got clouds of blue smoke for a couple of seconds any ideas??

cars had head rebuild recent .

 

What stage is the car and has it got a decent breather system fitted?

 

its just a stage 1 runing 14 psi it has a breather system on it with pipe from both sides of the block then 1 atmospheric

 

bump ..

 

did the smoke disapear after the few seconds deany?

 

yes mate just smoked for about 5 seconds it does it all the time but cause i was stood behinde car noticed it more

 

maybe turbo seals are slightly worn?

when you get a cossie mate?

 

doesnt seem like any play in turbo had it about 8 month i will be fooking going soon like lol

do u no anyone local to look at it

 

have a word with wilky off here rebuilt mine last year for me think he charged me 250 for rebuild withh 360 bearings etc balanced and all that joby

 

have you tried a nicorrete patch

 

Not yet lmfao

It smokes more than me lol

 

I'm not convinced it the turbo it's doing my fooling head in lol

 

I would be looking toward the top end I.E valve steam seals, the fact it's blue smoke shows it is getting into the combustion chamber and being burnt, who was the head rebuilt by?

Martin

 

carnt rember wer it was rebuilt at ive only got the recipet for the parts.Wouldnt it smoke after normal driveing (without boost) .?

 

There are companies selling *Genuine* Cosworth exhaust valve stem oil seals that are not genuine at all! To the naked eye they look the similar, but you can see the body is slightly different in shape, and when you take a pic you can see the seal is a different colour which is difficult to see in normal light. The one on the left is a proper genuine Cosworth item, the one on the right isn’t, but was sold as one!



The hole in the middle where the valve goes through is slightly bigger on the one on the right, the exhaust valve itself has a step near the top where it goes from 8mm to 7mm, the proper stem seal closes around both sizes, the one on the right doesn't and stays at 8mm, which would let oil through.

May not be what is causing your issue but it certainly would be a valid reason.

 

It could be stem seals-as said above. If the head has been rebuild recently chances are these were replaced. But maybe it had excessive valve stem &/or guide wear, wich means a new set of stem seals dont last long.
Is she using much oil?

 

doesnt really use much oil at all?

 

all my parts were bought from mat lewis.

 

just had the turbo off for alook there is 2mm of in and out play in it but no signs of oil anywere in hoses cooler or inlet, the ex houseing is just suted up no sign of oil in there either will that in and out play cause the smoke????

 

i wouldnt worry about it

if it gets worse then you will find the source easy

 

it is quite bad now lol

 

turbo

steam seals

rings

broken piston

cant be anything else

its one of them

 

there should be no play in and out mate.
you should have 2mm up and down but not in and out.

sounds like your turbo needs a rebuild

 

going to takr inlet off and have a look at valves

compression is 150 cold. ?

 

wouldnt there be oil in pipes or cooler befor it went in to bores???

 

i think its your turbo to be honest
as there should be no back and fourth movment at all
that indicates warn bearings

do you have a mate with a turbo you can bolt up to try

also cheak the drain from the turbo is all clear and not gunked up
it shouldnt be but worth a look

 

that is what im planing on doing see if i can borrow a turbo. Wouldnt there be oil in pipes and cooler if it was??

thanks for the help deany

 

[QUOTE=rst deany;5304116]that is what im planing on doing see if i can borrow a turbo. Wouldnt there be oil in pipes and cooler if it was??

thanks for the help deany[/QUOTE

the oil could be going straight in the exhaust and being burnt there
might not be getting to the bores

id take the cooler out and give it a good flush through to be on the safe side

got to love cossies lol

 

I'm having similar trouble,i had head/engine rebuilt.No corners cut,after about 2000 miles,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,when it was left idling for about 10 minutes,it smoked when you blipped the throttle,then cleared straight away.Anyway,head off again,new stem seals,solved problem.Done about another 2000 miles now,and started doing it again.It really really bugs me.Think my next move will be new set of valves and new stem seals.
Do you recommend anywhere to get the right stem seals

Matt

 

the oil could be going straight in the exhaust and being burnt there
might not be getting to the bores

id take the cooler out and give it a good flush through to be on the safe side

got to love cossies lol[/QUOTE]


yeah ill have alook in the cooler, i just thought for it to be blue it had to be comeing from the bores???

 

Matt lewis motorsport

 

yeah ill have alook in the cooler, i just thought for it to be blue it had to be comeing from the bores???[/QUOTE]

the exhaust housing and down pipe will get plenty hot enough to burn oil mate

dont go taking head off etc before you try a turbo

the exhaust may have a build up of oil now so dont expect it to be clear right away

drive it for a few miles to clear the system out

 

if its had a head rebuild then i would check the turbo aswell before taking it off again

 

The turbo is new to,i wish it was the turbo,its an easy fix

 

You's all still got your breather filter things fitted the red/black 'meo' filter i'm sure it's called, sit's under inlet, puts vacuum on crankcase....

 

breather system on it with pipe from both sides of the block then 1 atmospheric

 

I like the theory of vacum/negative pressure on the crankcase,but with all the aftermarket breather systems,the crankcase will only vent naturally.a cosy engine builder told me that a problem he has seen before,is the head filling up with to much oil,and or,not draining away quick enough,and overwhelming the stem seals.
When the head drain becomes overfilled with oil it causes a slight airlock(a bit like when you turn a water bottle upside down,the water glugs out,If you made a hole in the top of the bottle,the water will flow quickly out.The point i am making,if the head is connected to a breather,which in turn is connected to the crankcase,you will get "0" pressure in the head.Now i'm thinking that you would want to vent the head separatly to air,and have a vacum in the crankcase to pull the oil through

 

iv got breather system on it with pipe from both sides of the block then 1 atmospheric is that good enough or do i need a better one????