Trying to work out exactly what i have on my cossie before i rebuild and hike up the power

firstly, it has light green injectors they dont look like the bosch 803 as they are a very light green (almost turquoise)
id like to know what car they are out of as originally mines meant to be running yellows, also what power can i expect to acheive before hitting problems.

my actuator reads 430099-31 so does this mean its a dash 31 actuator, sounds obveous but i want to be sure.
I know how the actuator works and why its there but what axactly does -31 mean? as there are others with higher and lower numbers?

my ecu has a white adjustable screw in the front as opposed to yellow, apparently you can tell what ecu it is from this. does it matter what ecu i have or is one preferable over the other?

 

Dark greens are exactly that buddy so although I cant tell you what they are for sure they sound like standard 4x4 if im not mistaken, the -31 is a dash 31 and has probably been put on at some stage in place of a knackered standard one and not always part of a stage 3 conversion.

With regards to the ECU you will have to pull it out and check out the numbers but its doubtfull given the info you have supplied its any more than a standard L6 but even that can be chipped for good power, if its a standard chip and ECU I would say about 15psi max before it chops back and even less on a cold day.

All of this im saying from experience so dont slaughter me if im not 100% but im sure the other guys on here will know for sure.

Jase

 

Cheers mate, helps out a bit.
I think im going to go for the MSD L6 stage 2 chip which is approx 315 bhp on green 803's and 3 bar map sensor

Turbo is a recently rebuilt T3 with 360 degree bearing (whatever that means)

ill also add a 4x4 intercooler

Replace all the old worn boost and water hoses
and most importantly new rings and shells gaskets and valve stem seals (shes a bit smokey sometimes)

 

If your going that far with the MAP sensor and dark greens you may as well go for a MSD stage 3 chip on the T3, at least that way if you stumble across a T34 or such like your ready to go, dont quote me but I seem to recall a definate 330bhp on my old one and if you do all that and a T34, ive heard claims of 380bhp but im not 100%, like I said im sure the guys on here will know for sure.

Jase

 

The 4x4 injectors were dark blue.

What's the part number on them. Does it end 355?

 

Light green injectors are an old tuning stage that most people don't bother with these days.
Normally classed as stage 2 that would be around the 300bhp mark.

However there is also light green injectors that are of a higher flow rate that are 440cc.

Best to stick the part number up that is on the side to where the plug goes

 

There ya go, told you someone would know didnt I

 

-31 is the end of the part number on a garret actuator same goes with a -34. -31 will do the job easy for what you want. aren't the light greens like stage 2 upgrade sort of thing? i dont think anyone bothers with them anymore. 803's(dark greens) are good for 330bhp or a lot of people are using siemens 55lb black injectors to replace dark greens but i don't know if its a straight swap between these and the bosch items

 

light greens are known for tuning the yb to stage 2 which is approx 300bhp..

you can get anywhere up to 350-370 bhp without any problems as long as the engine has been looked after.. but for this you will need a 3 bar map sensor, dark green injectors or simens black injectors, suitable chip, bigger intercooler pref rs500 style, t34.63 turbo.

On the standard T3 you can prob get around 300 bhp comfortably without putting to much strain on the turbo.

My ideal road spec cossie would be a good 330bhp cossie, with a t34.48, 500 intercooler, larger cone filter, MSD chip, dark greens, 3 bar sensor. In relaity thats a good spec quick road going car but you get hungry for more power thats why my cars 450bhp and me and my old man are building a 550+ race car

 

That would be what I want for my car. Need to find a 200 block one day to start with

 

is the rs500 intercooler a straight swap or is cutting and modifying required?

 

ive got an genuine rs500 intercooler in my saph with no cutting required

 

Where about in Cambridgeshire are you if you dont mind.

 

Be VERY careful assuming all dark greens, 0 280 150 803 injectors flow exactly the same, I have had a set that were at 80% duty cycle at 300bhp, these had just been cleaned, so of course would be a little lower than old used ones.
Siemens are a direct swap for bosch injectors, but would require a chip change again, I've seen no evidence of a better spray pattern or superior performance over bosch.
I used bosch "greys" 403's on my 200,973 miles old engine and emissions were on mot 0.97% CO, with 137ppm, this was it's 100% normal running mode, not adjusted for mot unlike a load of L6 that may need it, best thing I ever did was aftermarket ecu.
The -31 relates to the spring rate in the actuator itself, this being stiffer/stronger than the std fit one.
As said sounds like a L6, just take cover off and see what the chip says on it, will tell you hopefully what it is MSD are very useful as they keep copies of the chip numbers along with the spec, and the service is very good too from them.
The RS500 coolers are a straight fit but very very tight, they rest on the rear of the headlights but are well worth getting, I use the 70mm airtec one, airtec are very ehavy but very strongly made unlike some of the big name boys whose intercoolers, rads and expansion tanks split the seams due to shit welding.
For 330 bhp you could just use a 4wd intercooler, a T34.48 with 360 bearing will do 380 bhp all day long, used with std cams makes a mentally fast and useable road car.
tabetha

 

ill go with the 4x4 cooler then as i want little more than 300bhp,

tonight ive snapped the end off the MAP sensor where the vacuum pipe connects .... doh!

Do i need another standard one or can i get away with using a 3 bar sensor (since ill be upgrading to 3 bar anyway)
Will 3 bar still run the car ok on the setup i currently have or do i need to do the chip 803's and 3 bar map sensor at the same time?


..... Just found the answer, bugger looks like ill need another standard one for now :-(