Best way to keep a cossie cool on track?
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Well i did my first track session at ford fair which is only bout 15 minutes-20mintes. but every lap id do i would then have to do a cool down half lap as the needle would be nearly touching red..
Ive done head gasket not so long ago as a precaution so there are no underlying problems. put fans on a switch and had interior heaters on full but it still killed my fun having to back down every lap.
Eventually will fit water injection but for now the only thing i can think of is to not run a water cooled turbo and block the feed off, as im guessing being on constant full boost is cooking the water.
I changed my coolant recently so maybe an air lock, will bleed system again nxt time im home.
Would like to know what your current set ups/ideas are for keeping a cossie cool.
cheeRS
Ive done head gasket not so long ago as a precaution so there are no underlying problems. put fans on a switch and had interior heaters on full but it still killed my fun having to back down every lap.
Eventually will fit water injection but for now the only thing i can think of is to not run a water cooled turbo and block the feed off, as im guessing being on constant full boost is cooking the water.
I changed my coolant recently so maybe an air lock, will bleed system again nxt time im home.
Would like to know what your current set ups/ideas are for keeping a cossie cool.
cheeRS
Last edited by ram; Aug 19, 2010 at 10:36 AM.
How old is your radiator?
They get less efficient as they corrode and get covered in shite.
A decent condition good quality radiator is probably all you need.
Water wetter is a good upgrade to the coolant too.
They get less efficient as they corrode and get covered in shite.
A decent condition good quality radiator is probably all you need.
Water wetter is a good upgrade to the coolant too.
Yeah the RS500 intercooler doesnt do the rad any favours, definately important you have a decent radiator when using a 500 cooler.
As mentioned above a turbo pre-rad would be a good idea too to take some more heat out of the system, standard intercooler 2wd/4wd location is a fairly good place for it when using a 500 cooler.
As mentioned above a turbo pre-rad would be a good idea too to take some more heat out of the system, standard intercooler 2wd/4wd location is a fairly good place for it when using a 500 cooler.
First port of call should be a new radiator. No point in doing anything until you have done this. Next think is alloy header tank with high pressure cap (which will raise the boiling point of the coolant - use a 50/50 glycol mix).
Then you can help by sealing the intercooler to the radiator as the air will always take the path of least resistance, so once slowed down through the intercooler a lot of the air will be flowing around the outside of the radiator (if there are gaps for it to do so), rather than passing through.
Finally, get a proper temp gauage as the Ford one is WOEFULLY inaccurate and doesn't give you ANY idea of what water temps you are actually seeing....
Then you can help by sealing the intercooler to the radiator as the air will always take the path of least resistance, so once slowed down through the intercooler a lot of the air will be flowing around the outside of the radiator (if there are gaps for it to do so), rather than passing through.
Finally, get a proper temp gauage as the Ford one is WOEFULLY inaccurate and doesn't give you ANY idea of what water temps you are actually seeing....
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First port of call should be a new radiator. No point in doing anything until you have done this. Next think is alloy header tank with high pressure cap (which will raise the boiling point of the coolant - use a 50/50 glycol mix).
Then you can help by sealing the intercooler to the radiator as the air will always take the path of least resistance, so once slowed down through the intercooler a lot of the air will be flowing around the outside of the radiator (if there are gaps for it to do so), rather than passing through.
Finally, get a proper temp gauage as the Ford one is WOEFULLY inaccurate and doesn't give you ANY idea of what water temps you are actually seeing....
Then you can help by sealing the intercooler to the radiator as the air will always take the path of least resistance, so once slowed down through the intercooler a lot of the air will be flowing around the outside of the radiator (if there are gaps for it to do so), rather than passing through.
Finally, get a proper temp gauage as the Ford one is WOEFULLY inaccurate and doesn't give you ANY idea of what water temps you are actually seeing....
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stopping forced air being wasted sounds like a good call. will make some ally sheets at work.
Rainbird - the headertank cap sounds interesting.. as after a run when i turn engine off and pop bonnet i can hear the smallest bit of air escape squeaking from my headercap, its just a standard tank and cap. does this mean my caps nackered? think i got a fezzy cap in the loft which are the same fitment if i recall so will try that for now.
will invest in an alloy rad when funds allow
Rainbird - the headertank cap sounds interesting.. as after a run when i turn engine off and pop bonnet i can hear the smallest bit of air escape squeaking from my headercap, its just a standard tank and cap. does this mean my caps nackered? think i got a fezzy cap in the loft which are the same fitment if i recall so will try that for now.
will invest in an alloy rad when funds allow
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From: watFORD
alwright ram, glad the clutch was ok 
i also found that if your fan switch is moody and cutting in to early and running for long periods this cools the coolant to much and the thermostat shuts down even when giving beans, i put a new thermostat and a msd uprated fan switch in and mine runs nice and constant temp.
i also found that if your fan switch is moody and cutting in to early and running for long periods this cools the coolant to much and the thermostat shuts down even when giving beans, i put a new thermostat and a msd uprated fan switch in and mine runs nice and constant temp.
If you want to be super super sure fit a copper rad, loses temp a lot better than alloy.
It is quite normal for the cap to hiss slightly, after you switch off the coolant gets hotter absorbing heat that isn't being dissipated by the rad due to water pump having stopped circulating water.
Panelling in can be done with thin ply, but make sure you cut ridges in it east west wise in relation to the car, so in the even of a light bump it doesn't go through your rad also and ruin that, costs nothing but a few mins with a saw to cut some grooves, but potentially could save you a few hundred.
tabetha
It is quite normal for the cap to hiss slightly, after you switch off the coolant gets hotter absorbing heat that isn't being dissipated by the rad due to water pump having stopped circulating water.
Panelling in can be done with thin ply, but make sure you cut ridges in it east west wise in relation to the car, so in the even of a light bump it doesn't go through your rad also and ruin that, costs nothing but a few mins with a saw to cut some grooves, but potentially could save you a few hundred.
tabetha
sound advise there gents
not related to water temp, but you should also consider a oil cooler and a decent gauge to monitor temps, you dont want the oil too hot/thin
not related to water temp, but you should also consider a oil cooler and a decent gauge to monitor temps, you dont want the oil too hot/thin
Last edited by LHD220Turbo; Aug 19, 2010 at 08:53 PM.
My 500 was missing its undertray when I first had it - the one that goes under the intercooler and holds the entry air flow in. One of the first things we noticed was how much cooler the car ran once we fitted it.
A Pace pre cooler is also on our car. Before fitting it we noticed temps rising a lot quicker when giving it beans - eg around Silverstone. The water coming out of the T4 must be silly hot on exit so, despite opinions to the contrary that I've seen expressed here, it worked for us and some of the other cars that we know.
Of course - we run a good old fashioned smiths gauge from the block itself... so no guessing like the Ford version - which has differed every time we have changed the sensor.
Just our experiences - but as Mike says - without good gauges it all becomes guesswork anyway.
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Joe - Yes mate meant to message you to say thanks. its taken a lot of abuse so far and is lasting longer than i thought. got me out the shit that did 
Thanks for all the advice chaps. a lot of things i can try/add to get the temps down
For now im just gonna disconnect and blank turbo water feed, add water wetter, and channel more air to rad, As Trax isnt far away and untill i get paid end of this month i dont have luxury money!
Then the shopping will begin

Thanks for all the advice chaps. a lot of things i can try/add to get the temps down
Then the shopping will begin
first thing is to fit a gauge and see what temps your getting, if you see over 100 then time to fit a cooler
I completely disagree. I would only fit an oil coiler if the oil was REGULARLY exceeding 115-120°C. On the Cosworth rally cars, they aim for oil temps of around 110°C, as this burns off any impurities (such as water from condensation) that get in the oil (which can reduce the protective properties).
I forgot to mention, I too have removed the water cooling from my T4 to give the coolant system an easier time....
I forgot to mention, I too have removed the water cooling from my T4 to give the coolant system an easier time....
Last edited by Mike Rainbird; Aug 20, 2010 at 08:46 AM.
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From: oxFORDshire
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From: oxFORDshire
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From: oxFORDshire
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Think im just gonna go paddle clutch. Im sure organic would be fine on a t34 but i managed to kill that last one on current t3 set up because i cant help launching like a cunt
Just go for an AP 6 paddle mate, will be fine
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Yes mate shes got no compression in 3 & 4. must have leaned it out when injectors got blocked. But my mates taking all the new bits off and weve agreed he isnt chargin me a penny cuz he was too dumb to not compression test it before throwing a grands worth of bits at a dead engine
just gonna sell it but isnt worth much now as a non runner so ive lost thousands 
Got a £450 mk3 golf 1.8cl beast now. was bored one evening at worked so mopped it and slicked up bumpers she looks lovely now
(these are real tears!)
just gonna sell it but isnt worth much now as a non runner so ive lost thousands Got a £450 mk3 golf 1.8cl beast now. was bored one evening at worked so mopped it and slicked up bumpers she looks lovely now
(these are real tears!)
Thread Starter
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From: oxFORDshire
Thread Starter
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From: oxFORDshire
Yes mate shes got no compression in 3 & 4. must have leaned it out when injectors got blocked. But my mates taking all the new bits off and weve agreed he isnt chargin me a penny cuz he was too dumb to not compression test it before throwing a grands worth of bits at a dead engine
just gonna sell it but isnt worth much now as a non runner so ive lost thousands 
Got a £450 mk3 golf 1.8cl beast now. was bored one evening at worked so mopped it and slicked up bumpers she looks lovely now
(these are real tears!)
just gonna sell it but isnt worth much now as a non runner so ive lost thousands Got a £450 mk3 golf 1.8cl beast now. was bored one evening at worked so mopped it and slicked up bumpers she looks lovely now
(these are real tears!)A mk3 golf 1800, even you probably wont be able to break that








