As a lot of you know my engine in my Evo Saloon has expired and i'm replacing it with a second hand lump.

I've been advised that it would be a good idea to do the following whilst the engine is out as it's not silly money and fairly easy:

Fit ARP Bolts
Examine Shells, replace if required else leave
Replace Oil Pump

now, just wanted to check if anyone disagrees with this advice? the bloke seems fairly clued up and i cant spot any obvious issues with the above bits, but just cant hurt to ask on here.

Cheers

Jim

 

Can u check the Vano's (spl) unit?

 

you don't really need arp bolts unless your upping the rev limit, but if you are inspecting the shells anyway you may as well fit them. never heard of an oil pump failure but it can't hurt if it's easy enough to get at.

 

brian, im told its a simple job if youre doing the rest, and guessing they wont be silly money.

i wont be upping the rev limit, but i do intend to track the car which will involve sustained high RPM.

as for the vanos the one on the replacment engine shows no signs of any issues and even looks fairly new, plus the one on the old engine appeared to be ok too, so i thinik im ok there.

the car will have an inspection 2 carried out too so things like shims and vanos filter etc. will be changed too.

 

I always thought BMW,s made good strong engines.

 

I would defo try and over-spec the lump while its out of the car without throwing serious cash at it obviously. Although more of different question and not related to the engine block itself, whats the sump like on the E36 EVO engine... if going to be track'd regularly, is it not a good idea to throw on a baffled sump??


Cheers,
Grant

 

grant, the evo has the good sump that all the non-evo owners are after, they fetch 200quid all day long

 

defo change to arp bolts, standards failing is becoming more common

 

Happy days, one less thing to buy when turning an M3 Evo into a track toy.


Cheers,
Grant

 

If your going to fit new bolts, shells and a pump, why don't you just do that on your current engine, along with a crank re-grind?

Thats what i'd do personally.

 

escy, current engine needs a TAD more than that

 

 

What does the current engine need? I thought the bottom end was knocking?

 

what, so you think the shells wearing is causing it to knock its arse off?

it doesnt take a rocket scientist to work out that it needs a bit more than a freshen up, it turned up on a transported with oil pissing out of it, no oil pressure and a "WARNING, DO NOT START" sticker on the windscreen

 

as said, you haven't investigated the old engine and jumped in bought another and want to rebuild it, doesn't make sense to me, surely an inspection would have only taken a few hours after all the engine is out the car anyway!

steve

 

DIY M3 engine rebuilding perfic

 

ask chip.com.

 

I'd be stripping the old engine to find out what went wong in the first place, it's free and only costs an hour or so if the engine is out already.

ARP bolts - by that you mean Conrod bolts? wouldn't hurt I guess!

 

youth, im not talking about a rebuild im talking about a set of bolts

the old engine will not be ok, its not got a bit of a knock it's got the "i'm FUCKED" death rattle

thew replacement engine is a grand, NO WAY you could repair the one i've got for that much money!

 

jim talk to alex f he knows all there is to know about bmw's

 

a grand for 2nd hand engine and then more money to rebuild it

 

Sounds like the old engine will need at least rods crank oil pump bigs mains etc etc!!!
Just chuck the new engine in,it should be fine and if it isnt youve been ripped and will need a rebuild anyway...


cheers danny

 

Jim a bottom end knock as you describe could be at best case set of bearings, what we are saying is it will cost you nothing to turn the old motor over and have a look!

steve

 

jim i'll have your scrap engine

 

r4n, the bolts are <100quid!