Hi Guys! Just like to say a quick hello! I'm 25, living in North Wales, and just purchased an 87 S2 RS Turbo

Bit of spec of the vehicle

1600 CVH (recent bottom end rebuild)
272 Newman Cam - with solid lifters
Stage 1 Hybrid T3
Custom Exhaust
Pace Intercooler
Chipped and Mapped by JamSport

Now, got home today and the smoke from the exhaust was unbelievable!
And it was running on 3 cylinders - Misfire on Cylinder 3
Anyways i removed all 4 Plugs to test compression. As soon as i removed plug no. 3, loads of steam and hissing. So i thought, Head Gasket!

Before i stripped the head off, i done a compression test. All 4 Cylinders were 9Bar (no.4 took few seconds longer to get to 9Bar but it got there)

Got the head off and the cylinder ring on no3 had snapped into a water jacket - Great! I hope to god i havn't hydraulic'ed the Cylinder!

Few Questions ive got:

What Gasket's do you guys use? Running 200hp

Do you use OEM head bolts, or uprated studs?

Also im going to renew the oil and water pump - any recomendations?

Im going to replace the rad and intercooler - any recomendations again?

Sorry for the essay and questions, but i've tried to explain as much as i can

Any advice given is much appreciated

Thanks in advance
Dan

 

Standard for H/G is good for 350bhp! ARP fastenings are always a good bet, Burton Power for the oil and water pumps. GRS for the intercooler, any alloy rad should be fine. An 82 degree thermostat from MSD is a good upgrade for Ł3...

 

exactly as above then get it set up properly

 

don't bother with the oil pump as there's more chance the new one will fail before the one you've got, standard ford head gasket and head bolts from local motorfactors is fine, standard radiator and the intercooler as mentioned from grs and i'm on the wirral you far away in north wales conwy area etc

 

Nice one for the info you guys!

 

true about the oil pump as well new ones can fail easily for some reason, stick with the old one but get a decent oil pressure guage

 

Reason i need a new pump is oil pressure is only at 1bar when engne is hot. Its at 3.5bar when first start up

 

oil pressure is quite low on these engines not sure what exact figures should be tho

 

Ive had a word with JamSport, they should be around 2Bar when warm. What oil do you guys run?!

 

at what rpm are you reading the oil pressure?

 

At idle after the engine has been driven for a good 20-30mins it should be around 1bar (14.7psi), at 3000rpm it should be around 3bar (45psi), from cold it will always be sky high as the oil is at it's thickest.
Jamsport are wrong if they told you 2bar (29psi), dont know where they got that from?!

 

Not 2 fucking bar that's for sure. I see about 13psi or so when up to operating temp at idle and the engine has been 100% reliable on track and thrashes for almost 7 years now. RST's don't have a lot of oil pressure at idle compared to most engines.

Standard HG will suffice, Airtec intercoolers seem to work very well fro the price and will be a huge improvement over the half width Pace which at best is very poor.

 

Escellent advice again chaps. very much apprectiated! Yeah, all readings off my car were at Idle

I've been busy cleaning up the engine surface's ready for new gasets etc, and came across a water jacket like this on the head:





I've got a spare head down in my mates shed (unsure of its condition tho) - Im tempted just to open the water jacket out a bit, just to clear up the corrosion. It's just going to be a bit of a PITA to swap bits over to the other head

It's fine on the block by the way

Any opinion's? Thanks

 

One other question chaps. When i fitted the new gearbox, i noticed the actuator pipe was connected to the compressor housing and then t-pieced off to atmosphere. Showing well over 20psi. Is this normal on a tuned/mapped/chipped RST? There's no DET marks on the piston's by the way

Appologies for all the questions, i just want this car spot on, as there's loads of work to do on her yet. I'll get piccies of her as i go along

Thanks Again

 

No problem with cleaning that up a bit mate, looks like it could do with a skim too.
The pipe with a T piece to atmosphere is a crude form of boost control, basically the size of the outlet bleeding to atmosphere will determine your boost level, bigger = more boost, smaller = less boost, i'd replace that with a lockable bleed valve at the very least (although JS may have done it to prevent the user altering their boost easily ) and once back together get it setup

 

Excellent my firend! Thanks

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What boost do you guys recomend? I presume its been running this boost for quite some time now, and no marks on pistons! Its just the Pace intercoolers' efficency im worried about, might be an idea to get an Air Intake Temp Gauge, and replace the intercooler, looks old and shabby. I could modify the front and use my Greddy 3Row off the Supra

One more question (i think this is the last one ) - its got a Kent Vernier Pulley. Where is the timing mark in relation to OEM Pulley? I can't see it being previously dialed in either, think its just been bolted on an left as Standard setup (running 272 Newman on Solid Adjustable lifters)

I didnt think when taking it apart, my own fault for being used to standard engines! Doh!!!

 

usually on the uprated vernier pullies there are no standard timing marks, the way i usually do it in this instance is use the crank and cams woodruft keys, you want to align the cam key directly down and the crank directly up, however the crank you can use the original timing mark which again is directly up easier to see that, hope you get what i mean.

 

Aye, know exaclty what you mean. Cheers

 

I would'nt run any boost until I'd had it setup to be sure mate, as above just set the vernier to 0, until it's on some rollers you wont know where it needs to be for optimum power.

 

all good advice - get some pics up mate!

 

Will do!

Thanks for the advice again guys. Where's best to get it all set up on rollers? Im based in north wales

I'll get some progress pics, its got different shade of red bumpers, skirts and arches. Plus needs welidng the floor and rear arches. But first ENGINE!!!