I have a 2 wheel drive Sapphire running stage 3 on a T34 and the standard clutch started to slip so I replaced it with a standard Ford AP unit and that also slipped but really badly. I replaced that with an uprated AP clutch and that is also slipping slightly but the car has covered less than 50 miles so far.

Because of all of these clutches slipping but no damage to any of the clutches when they have been removed is there something else like the cable or ratchet that could be faulty? Do you need to reset the ratchet after a few miles because the biting point seems high again now

Thanks

Paul

 

have you skimmed the flywheel between changes

 

I had the flywheel skimmed first time around then changed the clutch after 12 miles because it wasn't right, when I took the new clutch out there was no damage to either the clutch or flywheel though

It's a bit of a mystery really, I think it must be something to do with the cable or ratchet

 

you should let a clutch bed in for a few hundred miles, i put a 6 paddle clutch in my 450bhp cossie and that slipped at first then bedded it self in and was fine after that, also fitted a uprated ap clutch in my 2wd saph aswell with greys t34 etc that slipped at first then bedded in and was fine after that.....

 

That sounds promising Butch Think I'll still reset the ratchet though just to be safe and take it easy?

 

standard clutches seem to be wank now, mine has a mind of its own, fresh skimmed flywheel and ford clutch / cover. Started slipping on greens & t34 and then bedded in fine. Now greys and it slips on motorway sometimes if i dont drop down 1, enjoy a paddle mate prob solved

 

I heard that the new LUK ones Ford supply are crap but the one I had from Ford was AP and I only did about 12 miles on it and it slipped really badly after just 1 mile

This new AP feels much better and only slips in the higher gears but the car has in reality done maybe 30 miles since the clutch was fitted. I'll just drive it easy for a few hundred miles once I can get the exhaust to stop dragging itself down the road

 

Cable not realeasing this happened to my cossie when i first got it,it even came with a new clutch but i just changed the cable and it lasted another 5k

Paul

 

Is the clutch cable the one that goes past the turbo and can get a bit warm? I can't remember without looking but either that or my accelerator cable have got hot in the past and it's burnt the outside of the cable. It might be worth changing the cable anyway if it's an easy job.

Thanks for the replies

 

Is it just drive plates you are replacing each time or covers too?

 

Replaced the entire clutch twice now

The clutch that came out originally wasn't that bad and although it was a genuine item it did the job very well and wasn't that worn The replacement Ford AP unit wasn't working at all on my car and the uprated AP is only slightly slipping but it's not done many miles yet.

 

Sorry for the thread highjack, this flywheel skimming thats mentioned is this highly recommended to do??

Mines on its last legs so just about to change my clutch..

 

The drive plate needs a flat surface to mate to.
If the flywheel has high spots, at best you will probably get judder as the drive plate releases, at worst it can cause slipping. It is a good idea to check flywheel thickness first, as a flywheel that has been over skimmed, will change the fulcrum angle of the clutch arm.

Simple answer: if it needs skimming, then yes it is highly recomended.
hth


Paulo, your flywheel is babys arse smooth, yes?

 

Flywheel looks lovely now



That was after the 12 miles or so of running.

 

Having the same problem mate.. So gone for a paddle clutch, flywheel has been skimmed,new clutch cable. fooking nightmare

 

Hopefully you don't have what I had,
I couldn't fix clutch slip in a saph no matter what I did, put the engine in my 5 abs within a week the engine seized.
When joe took it apart the 1st thing he asked me was "did u have problems with the clutch?"
aparently the thrust washer on the end of the crank was worn away as it fitted incorectly and as I was pushing the clutch it was pushing the whole crank forward by 5mm resulting in a fucked engine and slipping clutch lol.

 

That's not good As far as I know my engine hasn't been apart but means nothing I guess, without taking the sump off I guess there is no way of checking?