What is the best way to minimize torquesteer ?
Polybushes, strutbar or suspension ect.

 

equal length drive shafts, good diff.

 

Remove some of the negative camber at front.
Enough tire pressure at front.
Strong rear ARB.
Avoid stupidly low ride heigth.
Lift up the front TCA inner mounting points or drop the outer ones.
Good bushes at the front or S1/RS1600i style reaction bars.

 

I can't wait!!

 

Let us know if it works.

Fuck it, what am I saying. Make it RWD and weld the diff.

 

Why would I want to make it Rong Wheel Drive??

 

im thinking i should og gone equal length shafts now


o well gives me something else to look into

 

rosejoints and quafe atb

 

You can buy a pattern of the driveshaft bearing mount bracket off me if you like!!

Infact I have that and a pattern for the driveshafts too.

Although they are for MTX. Not sure how similar they'd be?

 

I think i will try polybushes first, uprated diffs are a little over the top moneywise, and altering tca mounting is illegal in my country.
Wont strutbraces help staying on track ?

 

also changing the characteristic of the boost curve will help.
e.g. bleed valve's cause boost spikes which = torque which = torque steer.
remove bleedvalve and adjust actuator or amal valve and find that without the spike the car controls the boost better without spiking and less drama from torque steer.

 

I dont have a bleedvalve . I am running a 0.48 exhausthousing and 8-9 psi according to gauge, otherwise standart engine.

 

thats what i`v gone forplus having full gemo setup why car is up at nms being sorted

 

be prepared to be amazed cressy

 

i was suffering serious torque steer on my zetec turbo mondeo (circa 300bhp) and have almost cured it with the following:

- LSD
- poly'd front deflex wishbones
- poly'd ARB's with chunky rose jointed end links
- koni shocks/springs
- 18 x 8J wheels
- tubular rear arms
- front & rear strut braces (i noticed the rear brace which was the last bit i fitted, was like the last piece in the jigsaw)

the only thing is on uneven bumpy roads with loads of camber, the lsd does get a bit confused and chuck it left to right (but its easy to control, unlike before)

 

question - how do you go about converting to equal length driveshafts?

 

PML

yeah,whts involved?spose its harder on CVH, Zetec has them anyways

 

U can't beat a bit if torque steer

 

Hard graft is involved in converting to equal length shafts. My project thread will soon show how I've done it. Once I can finally sort this fucking pissing Clutch problem.

 

But then you will have the other problem increased transmission losses due to having some sort of converter plate for the equal driveshafts.
seems abit extreme.

 

eh!! can you explain this to me in english i can understand, as i've never seen this thing you mentioned on a vauxhall

 

Im with you on that one. LOL. There is no convertor plate involved. On mine, I've had the driveshafts made so they are essentially the same as used on the later MTX cars anyway, so the most you have is an additional joint and a bearing for the centre shaft to run in. OK, so this may give the transmission a little more drag, but it's hardly worth worrying about compared to the extra grip I expect from this conversion.

We'll see soon as I will post the results of how mine goes.

I say again though, it's far from an easy conversion.

 

but something that's been a long timing coming eg mate

 

Hear hear to that one. My interest in finishing this car is hanging on by a thread!

This latest kick in the head with the clutch really did almost tip me over the edge.

 

It was a brave move to be honest, but you have proved id defo doesn't fit...

Rick.