removing abs on s2 rs turbo (sorry if this has been posted before)
i have snapped a few pipe mounts when taking my engine out and could do with removing the abs system tomorrow as it is a pain in the arse... i dont see the point in changing the modulators for new ones as it will cost money, when i can just take the abs out for free.
Can anyone give a link to a comprehensive guide? I have done a search but cant find anything that gives step by step guides.
Do the two modulators next to each other, above the gearbox completely get removed?
Cheers and sorry if this has been posted a million times before!
Can anyone give a link to a comprehensive guide? I have done a search but cant find anything that gives step by step guides.
Do the two modulators next to each other, above the gearbox completely get removed?
Cheers and sorry if this has been posted a million times before!
remove all the shit attatched to the gearbox and have new pipe made from the cylinder to each T piece fitted to the inner wings/chassis legs, job done
its a tad more involved but thats basically how it goes
ive done a few now
its a tad more involved but thats basically how it goes
ive done a few now
Originally the brake lines ran from the master cylinder to the modulators and then to the brakes. What you need to do is basically by-pass the modulators.
So, either with a new XR3i master cylinder or the original with the top two returns blocked, the brake lines run as follows - well this is how they are on my car.
The brake line closest to the servo runs down to a t-piece on the drivers side of the inner wing. Here it splits and goes to the front driver side and to the rear passenger side(same as before). The other brake line runs to a t-piece on the passenger inner wing and again splits to the passenger side front and the driver side rear.
If you have a copy of the Haynes manual to hand, then turn to the schematic on page 9-15. At the bottom of the diagram there are the four lines that come in and out of each modulator ( 2 each ). If you label each of the lines from right to left 1,2,3,4, then you need to connect directly line 2 to 1, and directly line 4 to 3. If you do this, then you should have the same layout as I do.
Once everything is all connected back up, bleed the brakes and disconnect the belts. You can also remove the modulators. They weigh a ton and are now useless anyway.
So, either with a new XR3i master cylinder or the original with the top two returns blocked, the brake lines run as follows - well this is how they are on my car.
The brake line closest to the servo runs down to a t-piece on the drivers side of the inner wing. Here it splits and goes to the front driver side and to the rear passenger side(same as before). The other brake line runs to a t-piece on the passenger inner wing and again splits to the passenger side front and the driver side rear.
If you have a copy of the Haynes manual to hand, then turn to the schematic on page 9-15. At the bottom of the diagram there are the four lines that come in and out of each modulator ( 2 each ). If you label each of the lines from right to left 1,2,3,4, then you need to connect directly line 2 to 1, and directly line 4 to 3. If you do this, then you should have the same layout as I do.
Once everything is all connected back up, bleed the brakes and disconnect the belts. You can also remove the modulators. They weigh a ton and are now useless anyway.
Last edited by Karlos G; Dec 26, 2008 at 04:37 PM.
yet again Karlos your simple explanations have saved me a fortune! I owe you a beer if I ever see you at Ford fair or something.. I dont have the haynes to hand as its in my other car but ill get it tomorrow and sort it all out.
I dont need to swage any pipes or anything do I? It sounds like I can just use a scrap piece of pipe that gets cut out.
Also the pipes i blank off on my master cylinder are the top two as i look at it? Do i need to blank the bottom 2 holes on my reservoir also?
Cheers mate!
I dont need to swage any pipes or anything do I? It sounds like I can just use a scrap piece of pipe that gets cut out.
Also the pipes i blank off on my master cylinder are the top two as i look at it? Do i need to blank the bottom 2 holes on my reservoir also?
Cheers mate!
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thats it blueskies block off the res holes tube and screw will do the job a tidier job would be to replace with xr3i res as described
the other two pipes that feed the modulators on gear box gets redone to run from the t pieces on the wings to the brake master cylinder where the pipes that ran to the modulators went
then don't forget to bleed up brakes !!!!!!!!!
the other two pipes that feed the modulators on gear box gets redone to run from the t pieces on the wings to the brake master cylinder where the pipes that ran to the modulators went
then don't forget to bleed up brakes !!!!!!!!!
oh i see.... so i disconnect from the modulators and run that pipe up to the master cylinder where it plugged into the modulator!
I dont need to go anywhere near the 4 brake pipes underneath the car then?
I dont need to go anywhere near the 4 brake pipes underneath the car then?
ok its all going well so far.. i put some windscreen washer tubing on the pipes to see if i have disconnected the right ones and all looks good, no leaks etc so im off to interpart to get some brake pipe and a flaring tool!
I see what you mean about putting pipes to the wings and just getting rid of the modulators. But what do you do with the other pipes that come out of them and go under the car to the back?
Cheers.
Cheers.
exactly, CJ Bartlett, you just block off the reservoir holes, and remove the pipes going from the reservoir to the modulators, then remove the lower pipes on the t pieces going to the modulators, either side. You then manufacture 2 pipes going from each t piece and then put them into the master cylinder.
You can then cut the abs belts and remove them, then remove the modulators.. It really is simple mate, it sounds and looks harder than it actually is!
Let us know how you get on matey!
You can then cut the abs belts and remove them, then remove the modulators.. It really is simple mate, it sounds and looks harder than it actually is!
Let us know how you get on matey!
if you look on the diagram you are only bypassing the modulators and so you dont need to worry about the brake pipes that go to the rears. Abs is driven from the belts on your driveshaft and then sensed through some switches with long metal sensors on them. Abs is only on the front.
Have you disconnected or chopped anything from the rears mate?
Have you disconnected or chopped anything from the rears mate?
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