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Cos crank rear oil seal - where from???

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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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Default Cos crank rear oil seal - where from???

best place to get a crank rear oil seal for a 4x4 saph cos. already tried a genuine one from ford & it still leaked once i got it on track
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Burton Power?? I wouldnt have expected a Gen Ford item to leak unless it was installed incorrectly??
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:22 AM
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Matt Lewis.
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by B16CVH
Burton Power?? I wouldnt have expected a Gen Ford item to leak unless it was installed incorrectly??
but it does installed enough before & it was done with the engine out so not as if it was awkward to do lol

matt lewis supplies the genuine ones though doesn't he? thats whats already in there
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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That is a bitch, not like they are the easiest things to get to either. Is there a deep wear groove where the seal lies or do you have a lot of piston-blow by pressurising the crankcase??
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by B16CVH
That is a bitch, not like they are the easiest things to get to either. Is there a deep wear groove where the seal lies or do you have a lot of piston-blow by pressurising the crankcase??
nope checked the seal carier & it all looked good when i put it in.
running a spec r breather vented from both sides of the block with a proper oil return below the oil level so should be breathing ok. engine has done little mileage. only happens when on track ie sustained high rpm & hot oil
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:42 AM
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But was there a grove on the ground cranck face wher the lip of the seal runs??

Maybe a case of the oil getting so hot its going extremely thin and by-passing the seal.......Do you run an oil cooler?
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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no oil cooler as yet but according to my oil temp guage the temps I'm seeing are spot on ie around 100 degrees
crank was fine btw
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:47 AM
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how are you fitting the seal?
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:50 AM
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Hmm its a puzzler. I would def run an oil cooler if you are on the track and maybe try a different oil perhaps, there is no reason why it should leak if its fitted correctly and everything is as you say it is.....
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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bit of sealant smeared round the outside, pressed into the carrier off the car then fitted into place. normally use a small plastic spatula to coax the lip into the right place without dislodging the wire that runs round the back
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by B16CVH
Hmm its a puzzler. I would def run an oil cooler if you are on the track and maybe try a different oil perhaps, there is no reason why it should leak if its fitted correctly and everything is as you say it is.....
I know, tried silkolene & mobil 1. this is the second genuine ford one thats done this

Last edited by IANS2RST; Nov 27, 2008 at 12:12 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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just looked on ebay at the one matt lewis is selling & it looks different to one that ford supplied me with
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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Give that one a try but the only other thing that i can see causing it is that the area that the seal runs on has been ground when/if it has been machined throughout its life or the main bearings(especially No. 4 & 5) are severley worn but if this were the case i think you would have known about it before now!
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by IANS2RST
I know, tried silkolene & mobil 1. this is the second genuine ford one thats done this with different alloy carriers
Am I going mad?

There is not an alloy carrier that the rear seal sits in? It sits in a combination of the block and the rear crank main cap? Are you sure your not talking about the front seal that sits in the alloy fron cover?

Either way, genuine ford items should be fine. Matt Lewis for supply of these.
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by IANS2RST
running a spec r breather vented from both sides of the block with a proper oil return below the oil level so should be breathing ok.
Take your breather pipes off and clean them out, and the can if it looks like it needs it.
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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u r right I've gone mad - it is the rear oil seal that leaking but for some reason I'm thinking about when i last changed the front one
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jon@work
Take your breather pipes off and clean them out, and the can if it looks like it needs it.
done m8
how's tricks?
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by IANS2RST
done m8
how's tricks?
slow
expensive
cold
noisy
any other negative words you can think of

but at least I haven't got a shitty oil leak
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jon@work
slow
expensive
cold
noisy
any other negative words you can think of

but at least I haven't got a shitty oil leak
only cos the engine aint in the car
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by IANS2RST
only cos the engine aint in the car
400 running in miles done

shove that in your pipe
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 12:43 PM
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what actually in your car????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
give u a call over the weekend to catch up
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 06:33 PM
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I always use VITON seals wherever possible, these are vastly better than std ones, as they are meant in high heat loaded applications, and have much higher clamping pressure than std seals,(which should have been fine).
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tabetha
I always use VITON seals wherever possible, these are vastly better than std ones, as they are meant in high heat loaded applications, and have much higher clamping pressure than std seals,(which should have been fine).
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
where from please?
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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all the gen ford seals ive fitted come with a plastic fitting cone. i use only the gen ford seals

and have all been perfect, it wont be the seal at fault.

Last edited by JTECH James; Nov 27, 2008 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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got a genuine one sat here mate, can be posted, you will recieve Sat, PM sent
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
all the gen ford seals ive fitted come with a plastic fitting cone. i use only the gen ford seals

and have all been perfect, it wont be the seal at fault.
I agree, there must be an underlying problem somewhere.....
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by tabetha
I always use VITON seals wherever possible, these are vastly better than std ones, as they are meant in high heat loaded applications, and have much higher clamping pressure than std seals,(which should have been fine).
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
the man talks sense ford seals are shite
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