on a s2..block the pipe going from metering unit to amel valve and disconect all wireing to amel valve .then run a pipe fron actuator to the turbo? my friend set mine up like this and want to make sure its safe..

 

Unless your friend is a "proper tuner" or KNOWS his stuff(eg. has worked on these cars for years) then id take it and get it done by a PROPER TUNER or it will end like this

 

i stopped reading after you said block something up. No its not safe

 

i know id rather spend a hundred quid setting it up instead off 2k rebuilding a engine.

 

lol quality thread !

 

Fella,

That IS the way to do it !! You block the return from the solinoid to the metering unit, remove the wiring from the solinoid & secure out the way, then remove the soliniod & run the 2 remaining pipes into each other (or 1 pipe from actuator to compressor housing) usually via a bleed valve.

If you can, get a 3 way bleed valve & run the 3rd outlet off the valve to the pipe you jus blocked on the metering unit, will save any runnin probs !!

jb

 

thanks jb that was the answer i was lookin for..so i can control boost like this..how much boost do u think i could run without having it setup.....i need time to save for the setup..and i reall want to go to a meet on thursday!!!iv got a good spec car check my project thread

 

Of course it's a safe way of adjusting boost. All he's doing is removing the notoriously unreliable amal valve. Some of the people above have just shown their lack of knowledge about how things work. But I reckon they book their car in for a spark plug change, too so fair play to that...

If you run a hose straight from the compressor housing to the actuator your car will hardly boost at all. Be lucky if it does 2 - 3 PSI so I don't see why it should be dangerous.

However, if you decide to up the boost by including a bleed valve later on you have to make sure that the fuel mixture is still OK.



I set all my cars up by myself. I have 3 engines in spare so I couldn't care less about a meltdown. Haven't needed any of the 3 in 4 years now though so I must do something right.

 

this is going pete tongue

 

lol ..how are u checking ur fueling...i might order one of the sencor this get welded into the exaust...ill up it to standrd boost or 9ish probaly

 

Whats the spec of the engine ?? Still runnin MFi ?? Standard intercooler ?? Out the box they run about 7-8 psi, how new is the actuator ?? You can adjust the pre-load on the actuator but to be honest I wouldn't run much more than standard until set up to check AFR, timing etc. If you can set the timing to 12 degree BTDC when idling around 1k rpm -/+ 200 rpm & .7mm plug gap. Then try get the CO set 3.5%.

jb

 

Forgot to say this only applies to a std actuator. One way or the other, removing the amal valve will leave you with less boost.

Best way to check fueling is to bring it to a tuner... (I sound like one of "them" now)

You can do it yourself if you get yourself a wideband lambda kit. But MFI can be a pain to adjust so better leave it to someone experienced.

Oh and just to clarify that: I'm not knocking tuners here, I just hate it when people jump on the "it'll explode if you don't bring it to a tuner"-bandwagon, even though the technical question asked doesn't require any mapping etc. to be solved...

 

ROTF

TONG!

 

yeh i got front mounted /1900bottomend.still on mfi/actuator is old/its not chiped idont think..but everything else is uprated

 

If it's not chipped the ecu has a boost limit of around 11 psi anyways.

Don't go above that untill you have it checked by someone who knows what their doin tho okay ??

jb

 

i thought when u remove the amel valve .its tricking the ecu past the boost limit...so i could run 22 like this if i wanted to blown it up ,that is

 

Nah, the solinoid jus controls the boost to what the ecu says.

If you look, your'll see a vacuum pipe goin from the top of the inlet manifold round the heater box to the ecu, the ecu has it's own sort of MAP sensor so knows the boost it's runnin !!

Hope that helps

jb

 

So you've just told him what we told him to do in the first place


Fueling,timing,boost ect.. should NOT be fucked about with unless YOU (or your mate) KNOW'S EXACTLY what you are doing end of story.

 

thanks for your help jb ill be sticking to minimun for now/or intill the rollers

 

no thats not true.

the amal valve is a bleed valve, just an electronic swith one. so by removing it youre decreasing your boost.

the boost limit is on the chip in the ECU, unless you chip the ECU you will not remove the boost limit.

i dont understand why your mate has removed your amal valve. you only want to be doing this if you're replacing it with another bleed valve, as above the standard actuator preload will give you 2-3PSI without a bleed device.

i woudl reccomend you get it taken to someone who know whats theyre doing, as you're not running a standard engine (1900), so you may need to make further adjustments over standard. plus it wont cost much money to get it all set up properly, its not a black art.

 

What Jim said is spot on !!

 

there is a bleed valve on there and its fully closed but im not able to start the car because i dont have any fuel line ..they should be here soon..will the car be ok to drive to london without being setup or do u think its not worth the risk?(i willl be taking it easy)

 

dude have u spoken to triton motorsport or the other tuning place (sterte garage) by me in poole, they r both very very good....

 

nah m8 my cars still in the burns unit try again little ecort project

 

3rd degree m8

 

set it to standard settings as per what JB said, turn the boost down and drive it easy to get set up

unless someithng is faulty (aka totally fucked) ou shouldnt have any problems

 

He didn't ask how to change the mixture or increase the boost. He just wanted to know whether a setup without an amal valve and a direct hose between turbo and actuator is safe. And the simple answer would have been "YES".