Camber probs. i measured mine...
and its 1.5 degrees out, which equates to about 12mm on a 17"rim
so, does this mean that i simply need to move the balljoint 12mm in towards the car to get it back to 0???
help me please, my tyres ar fukked again
so, does this mean that i simply need to move the balljoint 12mm in towards the car to get it back to 0???
help me please, my tyres ar fukked again
Originally Posted by fudgeass
and its 1.5 degrees out, which equates to about 12mm on a 17"rim
so, does this mean that i simply need to move the balljoint 12mm in towards the car to get it back to 0???
help me please, my tyres ar fukked again
so, does this mean that i simply need to move the balljoint 12mm in towards the car to get it back to 0???
help me please, my tyres ar fukked again

Get someone with a decent machine to check it properly.
basically take it to a KNOWN decent 4 wheel alignment place.
because you need realtime measurments of whats going on as you do things up ect, as its going to move as you tighten bits up.
because you need realtime measurments of whats going on as you do things up ect, as its going to move as you tighten bits up.
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lol
i got a bit of 2" wide wood, measured the rim diameter 18.5" (but they 17"s????)
cut the wood to 18.5" then, as the rim is 17" i measured in 3/4" from each end to give me a 17" long bit, put a nail in one end, marked off several 3.5mm bits as i got a spreadsheet that says for a 17" rim ever 7mm or so is 1 degree. tied a bit of wire to nail, and a heavy nut on other end, held it flat against rim, and noted the mark where the wire passed.
both sides were about 11mm, which is 1.5 degrees negative on the spreadsheet.
thats how i done it lol
i got a bit of 2" wide wood, measured the rim diameter 18.5" (but they 17"s????)
cut the wood to 18.5" then, as the rim is 17" i measured in 3/4" from each end to give me a 17" long bit, put a nail in one end, marked off several 3.5mm bits as i got a spreadsheet that says for a 17" rim ever 7mm or so is 1 degree. tied a bit of wire to nail, and a heavy nut on other end, held it flat against rim, and noted the mark where the wire passed.
both sides were about 11mm, which is 1.5 degrees negative on the spreadsheet.
thats how i done it lol
well if your measurments are ok which would be very unlikely no offence.
thats a touch more neg than ideal for good wear rate (dependant on toe setting), if the insides are going to shit it could be just as much your toe rather than camber mate.
thats a touch more neg than ideal for good wear rate (dependant on toe setting), if the insides are going to shit it could be just as much your toe rather than camber mate.
i put new lower arms on with the tyres, 2 months ago
tyres are now fukked, and so are the arms now too, but tyres went 1st.
i expect my measurements aint 100% lol, but its deffo a fair big negative, you can see by looking at the wheels too
tyres are now fukked, and so are the arms now too, but tyres went 1st.
i expect my measurements aint 100% lol, but its deffo a fair big negative, you can see by looking at the wheels too
hampshire aint that far mate lol.
anyway, how do you over come it???
most peeps i have heard of just move the balljoint around 10mm further in.
i should have said that the car has been lowered about 40mm
anyway, how do you over come it???
most peeps i have heard of just move the balljoint around 10mm further in.
i should have said that the car has been lowered about 40mm
either ajustable top mounts, or move the balljoint ive never seen anyone move the balljoint though.
i gather you mean oval out the lower arm bolt holes?
could be ok i guess pm me if you want it checked after you do it.
i gather you mean oval out the lower arm bolt holes?
could be ok i guess pm me if you want it checked after you do it.
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Marc sierra
Ford Sierra/Sapphire/RS500 Cosworth
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Aug 30, 2015 10:38 AM





