What are the alternatives other than standard stretch bolts and why?

 

Why would you want alternatives ?

I personally have always thought standard bolts are fine.

Take it this is for the car in your sig ?

 

Yes it is for the RST.

Standard Head Bolts have always been fine for me too, but there must come a time when they become a concern, just as Big End Bolts do etc.

I think ARP do a replacement, which is a stud and nut. Anyone know whether this is the case??

 

I thought ARP weren't stretch bolts tho, surely this is for use with an engine such as a pinto or a x-flow as the cast block and head heat up and cool down the same.

If they aint a problem, why do you need them ?

 

There are re usable head bolts around, think Burton Power make them...

 

Christian, keep with std head bolts.

 

Keep with standard bolts and use them again
If you have a Lathe, turn off 2-3mm and then they won't bottom out and you have saved money, works on 330BHP YB motors so don't see why not on a CVH\ZVH

 

I can see i would not be buyin an engine of you
whats the point when there peanuts to buy?

 

 

 

Phuq me, can of worms and tin opener!!!
I have been building big power motors since the early 90's and unless you know one of my motors that has let go and I don't, ..... you are entitled to my opinion
I can safely say none of you doubting Thomas's have been in a car powered by one of my motors, so you can't exactly say they are unreliable

Still Karl doesn't believe anything I do or say so a few more people doubting me ain't going to worry me. I will keep my opinions to myself in future and there will be no need to give up any more secrets then

 

IMO the best bolts to use are the same as the Burton uprated type
(the type with cap head's)

& cost less than half price.........


cos you dont buy them from Burton's

 

cossy abuser,

Why do you think I have something against you?

Regards reusing stretch bolts, I'm affraid its a BIG no. This is'nt to say you can't reuse them, its just unwise to as you have no idea how far off its yield point the bolt is.

The technical reason for this is because all materials have an elastic region within the ultimate tensile strength, and then you enter the yield area where permanent deformation, and hence ultimately strength rapidly falls.

A stretch bolt by definition, is elongated during the torqing process so that the bolt remains within its elastic region. This is the region where by the tensile strength has not yet started to fail through bolt elongation.

By reusing a stretch bolt, you may well still remain within this elastic region, but eventually you will elongate the bolt to the point it reaches its yield limit with failure occuring soon after!

If you need to see this in practice, look into how material is tested for its tensile strength. You'll find that most metals are tested using a test piece representing a known diameter rod, and after XX% extension the metal yields and fails, a little bit like stretching an elastic band far too much. unfortunetly for metals the amount of elongation allowable before yield is'nt much as a percentage, hence why grinding the bottom off your head bolts to allow them to stretch further is a BAD idea.

Hope that helps,

 

ye hahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

Thanks Karl but I have an HND in Metal Technology and you were the one that said 220BHP from a 1600cc Zetec was impossible remember

Cheers Gus........ No more cheap shiney bits

 

 

Simon,

Not shit-stirring, but I thought it wasn't possible due to valve size?

 

No listing for ARP head bolts in Burtons latest catalogue is for everything else ARP head-bolt wise and yes it looks like a stud and nut conversion for all the rest

Weld it solid mate, worked on your turbo housing didn't it

 

And from my conversion

 

Yes, but Jano, we all KNOW you're chock full of shit - no surprise you ended up replying