turbo?
theres been a funny noise/bit like a whining noise when im driving could it be the turbo,there is no smoke coming out the back anyone know roughly
what it could be
what it could be
Originally Posted by justin j
theres been a funny noise/bit like a whining noise when im driving could it be the turbo,there is no smoke coming out the back anyone know roughly
what it could be
what it could be

Originally Posted by mechanic28
is it a siren type noise?your turbo will be a T3 on a standard sapp cossie fella 

Originally Posted by KSA-Cossie
On boost or off m8 ?
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[quote="mechanic28"]its a rattle noise!?if comin from the turbo that will be your waste get flap getting loose have u been losing boost?[/quote
not sure m8 normally i can hear the whistle of the turbo but when the rattle/noise comes on it doesent have the bite as normal if that helps sorry dont know out about the engine
not sure m8 normally i can hear the whistle of the turbo but when the rattle/noise comes on it doesent have the bite as normal if that helps sorry dont know out about the engine
sounds like u waste gate flap is at fault which is a internal part of your turbo,or a cheaper option it may be your actuator getting weak and not being able to hold tight against your wastegate rod?
[quote="mechanic28"]sounds like u waste gate flap is at fault which is a internal part of your turbo,or a cheaper option it may be your actuator getting weak and not being able to hold tight against your wastegate rod? :top
il get it checked thankyou for your help m8 getting recondiditioned is that worth getting done or saving and buying new 1
il get it checked thankyou for your help m8 getting recondiditioned is that worth getting done or saving and buying new 1
I would try an actuator first, as you will need one anyway if buggered if not make a nice spare.
Is there wear on the spindle that goes through the turbine housing ?
Physically grab(COLD ENGINE) the arm/spindle on which the rod from the actuator goes onto and see if it has any sideways play or up down movement.
The spindle part of this arm that passes through the turbine(exhaust) housing wears very badly, this causes the valve inside the housing which is just a round flat piece of metal that seals against a hole inside NOT to seal properly and so you lose boost, they TILT and normally crack the housing seat where they(valve) sits as well, but this is NOT necessarily bad, some can still be ok with this.
If wear is not too bad some can be repaired, if not it will need a new TURBINE housing, around £150 for T3.
If going to have it rebuilt, may as well go 360 and step gap at same time for a little extra.
The std bearing is a ring of 270 degree's but this can be changed for much better 360 degree one, essential if tuning though even std will not be very good with 270 bearing.
Step gap seal will help stop oil loss through turbo, by about 80/90%.
Speak to the TURBOCENTRE on 01924 404112, ask for ANDY or CRAIG.
tabetha
Is there wear on the spindle that goes through the turbine housing ?
Physically grab(COLD ENGINE) the arm/spindle on which the rod from the actuator goes onto and see if it has any sideways play or up down movement.
The spindle part of this arm that passes through the turbine(exhaust) housing wears very badly, this causes the valve inside the housing which is just a round flat piece of metal that seals against a hole inside NOT to seal properly and so you lose boost, they TILT and normally crack the housing seat where they(valve) sits as well, but this is NOT necessarily bad, some can still be ok with this.
If wear is not too bad some can be repaired, if not it will need a new TURBINE housing, around £150 for T3.
If going to have it rebuilt, may as well go 360 and step gap at same time for a little extra.
The std bearing is a ring of 270 degree's but this can be changed for much better 360 degree one, essential if tuning though even std will not be very good with 270 bearing.
Step gap seal will help stop oil loss through turbo, by about 80/90%.
Speak to the TURBOCENTRE on 01924 404112, ask for ANDY or CRAIG.
tabetha
right been out in the car tonight the noise sounds a bit more like a belt slipping noise, the noise is not spinning as fast as the turbo would, i turned all the lights on the heaters etc and i am getting a whining noise from the alternator and goes off when lights are turned off, has anyone come across this before and is this more than likely my problem and thankyou 4 your help
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Darlington county durham
How bad is the winning noise cause im sure they make a noise when u have heaters n lights on cause the alternator is under load.If its bad it might b the bearings in the alternator. You will need a new alternator. Thats if u carnt get it re-conditioned.
Originally Posted by glennshute
How bad is the winning noise cause im sure they make a noise when u have heaters n lights on cause the alternator is under load.If its bad it might b the bearings in the alternator. You will need a new alternator. Thats if u carnt get it re-conditioned.
If Iwere you just as a precaution I would disconnect the fan belts, for the alternator to make sure it is that, other wise it is most likely your TIMING BELT TENSIONER, and this is very bad news.
If it is the alternator, they are relatively cheap to do, but recon is better bet as housings can crack when extracting bearings even with heating them, if they are tight which they can often be.
tabetha
If it is the alternator, they are relatively cheap to do, but recon is better bet as housings can crack when extracting bearings even with heating them, if they are tight which they can often be.
tabetha
Originally Posted by tabetha
If Iwere you just as a precaution I would disconnect the fan belts, for the alternator to make sure it is that, other wise it is most likely your TIMING BELT TENSIONER, and this is very bad news.
If it is the alternator, they are relatively cheap to do, but recon is better bet as housings can crack when extracting bearings even with heating them, if they are tight which they can often be.
tabetha
If it is the alternator, they are relatively cheap to do, but recon is better bet as housings can crack when extracting bearings even with heating them, if they are tight which they can often be.
tabetha
If I had a whining tensioner I would not even start it!!
It is just not worth the risk, as said if it decides to seize, it will first melt your belt against the pulley, then snap then bend your valves, possibly even crack your pistons.
Tensioners are easy to do, 10 minutes maximum, and not too expensive, about £35/£45, don't even need to take belt off to do one.
Just tension to correct tightness, tighten to 45NM(locknut) job done.
If you were anywhere near Narfork I would do it for you FOC.
tabetha
It is just not worth the risk, as said if it decides to seize, it will first melt your belt against the pulley, then snap then bend your valves, possibly even crack your pistons.
Tensioners are easy to do, 10 minutes maximum, and not too expensive, about £35/£45, don't even need to take belt off to do one.
Just tension to correct tightness, tighten to 45NM(locknut) job done.
If you were anywhere near Narfork I would do it for you FOC.
tabetha
had the car today at my m8s garage checked the belts and tensioner everything seems fine he said and the alternator is ok
the noise is a whistle noise quite deepish im not loosing any boost or smoke out the back
what could it be
the noise is a whistle noise quite deepish im not loosing any boost or smoke out the back
what could it be
have you checked for play in the turbine shaft?
mine was so worn it was moving around left right,back and forth. and the blades were catching off the housing making a loud whine.there was also no smoke coming from my car either.
my money is on it being your turbo m8
mine was so worn it was moving around left right,back and forth. and the blades were catching off the housing making a loud whine.there was also no smoke coming from my car either.
my money is on it being your turbo m8
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