Need some guidence please.

Bought A 10k mile engine (supposed), i am suffering low oil pressure on tick over when hot.

900rpm Tickover 10PSI
2000rpm 32PSI
3000 rpm 45PSI
4000rpm 55PSI

Getting no oil light flicker on tick over so will check the sender but if it is reading right i take it it is a bad problem

I know issues could be weak pump or worn shells, the strainer was new so i doubt it is blocked as i have only riven 20 miles and have had this since doing the build.

Any suggestions on the pressure, best thing to tackle next.

I use 15w-50w Mobil 1 as i guess that will be everyones first question, and i also use breather kit and a big wing sump holding 9 litres.

 

Cold pressure is around 35psi AT 900RPM

 

Hot tick over should be 25-27psi ish minimum.

I tend to get 27psi

Dave

 

On start up mine is over 90psi (gauge only reads to 90 and its a fair while before it drops to 90 or below).

Once warm under load its about 60psi, and on tick over tends to be about 26psi ish?

Thats on my home build engine thats now done about 5500miles...

 

good job you had this mate just in case.

 

Hmm a bit low id say , im around 90 on start up , and hot idle is around 25psi

Hope its nothing serious mate

I`d get the sump off and check the oil pump ? change ?

 

fuckin hell thats not a cheap oil change

 

90 psi is usually on a hp pump (cold)

Both my cossies run 60 psi cold 30 psi hot on mobil 1 motorsport

If you have a electric oil press gauge i would look at that first cos imo there not that good and voltage can affect it,A mech one would be better

change the oil pressure switch just to be sure

 

do you run an oil cooler?

 

no buddy

 

thanks so far

 

Could be worth replacing the oil pump.

I asked re the oil cooler as it usually requires a higher pressure spring to be put in.

 

tommorrow i'll dig out what oil pressure my cossie had when it was last run.

 

Jase, i had a lazy oil pump when i rebuilt my engine (ybp) after about 6-700 miles it started to lose pressure on idle & the lifters would rattle if it was left idleing, it was dropping back to 14-18 psi on hot idle, i changed the pump & now it normally ot idles around 2 bar.

 

i hit 85psi on startup
65psi on acceleration
30psi on tickover


hope mines ok

 

least you want on tick over ideally is 25psi NO MATTER what type of oil your running on a standard pump!

 

my mate just had the same problem only had 10psi on idle i know your using good oil but all he did was give it a good engine flush and some decent oil and now its fine

hope you get it sorted

 

Gauges are not always accurate. Thats why its always best the check them against a known calibrated gauge.

 

oil light wont come on until it drops below 6psi

 

By which time you're fucked

Try engine flush then new oil

If that don't fix it it could be the drive out of the dizzy that goes to the oil pump, its like a hexagonal shaft, if thats rounded off slightly could not always be gripping and turning the pump

Try another gauge

Or if that is fine then change the pump ideally engine out to check all you're bearings too

 

The engine has just been put in the car, it was drained, sump off, strainer checked and put back together, the pump has apparently done 6000 miles, the new oil is 9.2Litres of Mobil 15w50, (big wing).
The stack dash shows between 9psi and 10psi, i connected a mechanical gauge and its showing 10-11psi.

Could try the pump but i think it will BE A LOST CAUSE, i think i know why the seller sold it on, i paid good money as well and im heart broken

 

Cant find the info, but by memory

my cossie @ 80oC oil temp, Morris fully oil. and accurate gauges.

1k rpm 20psi,
2k rpm = 35psi,
3k+ rpm = 55-60 psi

 

Name and shame the seller mate!!!

 

is the sesor the right one
for the gauge !!

 

checked against two gauges, one mecahnical one and still shows only 11psi

 

Awesome mate, worth sorting!

Try a High Pressure pump first mate, got to be better than the alternative?

P.S When you coming over?

 

I have emailed him to see what he will say, i know the engine has been built as i spoke to PJ Motorsport before i collected it, its only done 3K, but i have found 1 or 2 minor issues i was not told about, and the manifold supplied was mullered, the turbo had a little play also but i was told was best part of brand new, Turbo dynamics said i could have got away with the turbo but as i wanted everything mint i got it done.

The engine is the kick in the teeth, i do wonder is this the reason he got rid.

The guy is not short of money, owns couple of properties and a few very very nice cars.
The oil light doesnt flicker or come on, so you do have to ask yourself was he aware
I just dont know, i like to try and trust people , when they give you there word

 

still stuck at work, delayed with the install, waiting engineers to comeback

 

Dan went in the car last night, and he thought it was definitly worth getting done, he used the word brutal on a couple of occasions thats only with 22psi, the spec would mean a push to 28-29psi on the T34, means it wouldgo very well.

It brakes very well, goes very well, and handles pretty dam good and the gearbox does sound the tits

 

 

BOTH of your above posts are reason enough NOT to break it!

I KNOW it's a kick in the cunt mate but you (and me! ) have come too far, we'll fucking sort it!

Have you rang Stu yet? You know how good he is on the phone with us, get some advice off him tomoz!

Chin Up my boy, fuck my Saph today, just come over and i'll take you for a beer

 

i will if i ever get out of this hospital

 

You will