non starter erst s2 ... again
Hi,
My s2 won't start, the engine tries some "explosions", after cranking 2-3min I can idle a 300rpm if i still turn on the starter ...
I tried to unplug the fuel hoses (of injectors) on the metering head, tried to start but there is no fueling :s
What test can I do ? what can I check ? or I have to swap the metering unit ?
Thanks !
Pierre
My s2 won't start, the engine tries some "explosions", after cranking 2-3min I can idle a 300rpm if i still turn on the starter ...
I tried to unplug the fuel hoses (of injectors) on the metering head, tried to start but there is no fueling :s
What test can I do ? what can I check ? or I have to swap the metering unit ?
Thanks !
Pierre
The car is running on the cold start injector in that case!
Your pump could be goosed and not be producing enough pressure to open the injectors.
Metering head may also be stuck!
Your pump could be goosed and not be producing enough pressure to open the injectors.
Metering head may also be stuck!
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
If this is OK (you're lucky) then your cold start valve is faulty and is either
dribbling/pissing fuel which makes starting very difficult/impossible.
pink fuel pump relay.
If this is OK (you're lucky) then your cold start valve is faulty and is either
dribbling/pissing fuel which makes starting very difficult/impossible.
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
If this is OK (you're lucky) then your cold start valve is faulty and is either
dribbling/pissing fuel which makes starting very difficult/impossible.
pink fuel pump relay.
If this is OK (you're lucky) then your cold start valve is faulty and is either
dribbling/pissing fuel which makes starting very difficult/impossible.
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
pink fuel pump relay.
What are you on about? How does cranking an engine burn out a relay that is continuously on while the engine is running anyway
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
pink fuel pump relay.
What are you on about? How does cranking an engine burn out a relay that is continuously on while the engine is running anyway
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Originally Posted by mentalasanything
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
pink fuel pump relay.
What are you on about? How does cranking an engine burn out a relay that is continuously on while the engine is running anyway
My cabriolet when it has issues used to take a good 5 minutes of solid cranking to start............
the flap in metering unit moves freely
the fuel pump is priming
There is no flow fuel in the injectors
I will check tomorrow the fuelling before metering unit
I can hear my pink fuel pump relay ... so I can say It's ok for it ... isn't it ?
the fuel pump is priming
There is no flow fuel in the injectors
I will check tomorrow the fuelling before metering unit
I can hear my pink fuel pump relay ... so I can say It's ok for it ... isn't it ?
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by mentalasanything
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
pink fuel pump relay.
What are you on about? How does cranking an engine burn out a relay that is continuously on while the engine is running anyway
My cabriolet when it has issues used to take a good 5 minutes of solid cranking to start............
Just observations from a busy workshop Brian that has lots of 18 year old nuggets with RST's
Originally Posted by SafeChav
If it primes thats a good sign, does the pump run when you are cranking the engine over aswell?
Is the pump loud?
Is the pump loud?
but tell you how is the noise ... is difficult ... for me the fuel pump does the same noise since i bought the car ...
A friend tell me I should unplug the metering unit and check the "component" under the flaps (a metalic stem of 1/3 inch) moves freely up/down
but for me if the flap moves freely, there is no prob' with this parts... Am I wrong ?
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by mentalasanything
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
2/3 mins of continuous cranking has almost certainly burnt out your
pink fuel pump relay.
pink fuel pump relay.
What are you on about? How does cranking an engine burn out a relay that is continuously on while the engine is running anyway
My cabriolet when it has issues used to take a good 5 minutes of solid cranking to start............
Just observations from a busy workshop Brian that has lots of 18 year old nuggets with RST's
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
P.S.
NO BATTERY WILL SUSTAIN 5 MINS CONTINUOUS CRANKING
NO BATTERY WILL SUSTAIN 5 MINS CONTINUOUS CRANKING
I can ASSURE YOU i would have to crank the car for minutes on end before it would start........
Originally Posted by Jack-of-all-Trades
Originally Posted by SafeChav
If it primes thats a good sign, does the pump run when you are cranking the engine over aswell?
Is the pump loud?
Is the pump loud?
but tell you how is the noise ... is difficult ... for me the fuel pump does the same noise since i bought the car ...
A friend tell me I should unplug the metering unit and check the "component" under the flaps (a metalic stem of 1/3 inch) moves freely up/down
but for me if the flap moves freely, there is no prob' with this parts... Am I wrong ?
What component is your friend talking about, possibly the piston in the metering head block that the flap pushes?
Originally Posted by ivorbiggun
Must've had a water cooled 230 ac stater motor Andy
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by Jack-of-all-Trades
Originally Posted by SafeChav
If it primes thats a good sign, does the pump run when you are cranking the engine over aswell?
Is the pump loud?
Is the pump loud?
but tell you how is the noise ... is difficult ... for me the fuel pump does the same noise since i bought the car ...
A friend tell me I should unplug the metering unit and check the "component" under the flaps (a metalic stem of 1/3 inch) moves freely up/down
but for me if the flap moves freely, there is no prob' with this parts... Am I wrong ?
What component is your friend talking about, possibly the piston in the metering head block that the flap pushes?
ivorbiggun > why ? I have no fuelling and you say it's the starter ? how can it be possible ?
Jack-of-all-Trades, they are common to stick etc, but i doubt its your problem if you have no fuel.
Tell you one thing you could do, remove the fuel pump relay and bridge it so the pump runs continuously, and push the flap by hand and see if you can hear the injectors spray into the cylinders.
Also, have you checked to see if the flap moves when you are cranking the engine - if it doesnt you will have an air leak!
Tell you one thing you could do, remove the fuel pump relay and bridge it so the pump runs continuously, and push the flap by hand and see if you can hear the injectors spray into the cylinders.
Also, have you checked to see if the flap moves when you are cranking the engine - if it doesnt you will have an air leak!
SafeChav
Ok, How can I bridge it ?
With a friend, whe unplug injector hoses, I cranked the engine and ... there is fuel but it won't spray... We didn't try to push the flap by hand when I was cranking the engine
Yes, the flap moves when I'm cranking the engine
ivorbiggun ok
Ok, How can I bridge it ?
With a friend, whe unplug injector hoses, I cranked the engine and ... there is fuel but it won't spray... We didn't try to push the flap by hand when I was cranking the engine
Yes, the flap moves when I'm cranking the engine
ivorbiggun ok
By bridging from the Red wire, to the Black/Red. The pump will run continuously without the ignition on.
Then press the flap carefully, and if fuel is being injected you will hear a high picthed hissing noise from the injectors.
Then press the flap carefully, and if fuel is being injected you will hear a high picthed hissing noise from the injectors.
SafeChav I tested like you said, and i can hear simething "a high pitched hissing noise from the injectors"
What is mean ? Pink relay is dead ?
Can i try to crank the engine whith the bridge ?
thanks !
What is mean ? Pink relay is dead ?
Can i try to crank the engine whith the bridge ?
thanks !
The high pitch noise is the fuel spraying from the injectors!
You could try removing an injector and pressing the flap BUT BE CAREFUL OF YOUR EYES the fuel will spray out under very high pressure.
Its fine to try and start the car with the fuel pump bridged, wouldn't recommend driving it like it for safety reasons!
You could try removing an injector and pressing the flap BUT BE CAREFUL OF YOUR EYES the fuel will spray out under very high pressure.
Its fine to try and start the car with the fuel pump bridged, wouldn't recommend driving it like it for safety reasons!
Originally Posted by SafeChav
The high pitch noise is the fuel spraying from the injectors!
You could try removing an injector and pressing the flap BUT BE CAREFUL OF YOUR EYES the fuel will spray out under very high pressure.
Its fine to try and start the car with the fuel pump bridged, wouldn't recommend driving it like it for safety reasons!
You could try removing an injector and pressing the flap BUT BE CAREFUL OF YOUR EYES the fuel will spray out under very high pressure.
Its fine to try and start the car with the fuel pump bridged, wouldn't recommend driving it like it for safety reasons!
I tried same thing and pushing the flap about 1cm and same result ...
I tested one injector (#4) with fuel pump relay bridged, There is fuel, but the engine won't start with fuel pump bridged...
If the fuel pump relay is in I don't hear noise from injectors when I'm cranking the engine
If the fuel pump relay is in I don't hear noise from injectors when I'm cranking the engine
Originally Posted by SafeChav
You wont hear the injectors over the engine.
Ok, have you checked the flap moves when you crank the engine over?
Ok, have you checked the flap moves when you crank the engine over?
It seems there is no problem with fuel, but with the fuel pump relay (not bridged) there is no fuel after the metering unit (I tried to crank the engine with injectors unpluged)... I don't understand ...
it seems there is a spark (the car tries to start, some explosions when i'm cranking), but I can't say if there is a good spark at the good time
nobody can help me tomorrox, how can I check alone ? (I know how with a friend, but alone I don't know)
And, My dizzy is new (few months) and a good setup before (it seems it didn't move)
thanks !
nobody can help me tomorrox, how can I check alone ? (I know how with a friend, but alone I don't know)
And, My dizzy is new (few months) and a good setup before (it seems it didn't move)
thanks !
Hmmmmmm, this is an odd one!
You have fuel to the injectors, the air flap is moving so i would assume you don't have any air leaks.
We know the fuel pump works and it should run with a bridge wire.
If the dizzy's new thats all good.
What about timing? You had the cam belt off, or unplugged the HT leads at all?
You have fuel to the injectors, the air flap is moving so i would assume you don't have any air leaks.
We know the fuel pump works and it should run with a bridge wire.
If the dizzy's new thats all good.
What about timing? You had the cam belt off, or unplugged the HT leads at all?
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Hmmmmmm, this is an odd one!
You have fuel to the injectors, the air flap is moving so i would assume you don't have any air leaks.
We know the fuel pump works and it should run with a bridge wire.
If the dizzy's new thats all good.
What about timing? You had the cam belt off, or unplugged the HT leads at all?
You have fuel to the injectors, the air flap is moving so i would assume you don't have any air leaks.
We know the fuel pump works and it should run with a bridge wire.
If the dizzy's new thats all good.
What about timing? You had the cam belt off, or unplugged the HT leads at all?
The HT leads wasn't unplugged before...
Before this problem, I made set up the Co at idle (2%), the man who did the setup didn't disconnect the metering unit...
Can it be the origin of my problem ?
POSSIBLY, if im honest its been a good 2 years since i had all the dramas with my car and i cant remember now how you set the mixture, and i dont intend on using MFI ever again.
If its set too weka then yes you will have a starting problem on your hands!
See if you can get it started by pushing the flap gently a couple of mm while its being cranked over.
If it starts this is your problem
If its set too weka then yes you will have a starting problem on your hands!
See if you can get it started by pushing the flap gently a couple of mm while its being cranked over.
If it starts this is your problem
I tested to push the flap when I'm cranking the engine won't start
I checked all hoses, one between ECU (map) and inlet was unplugged (I think that it has be removed when I worked on the car), I reconnected it but same thing ... the engine won't start
I checked all hoses, one between ECU (map) and inlet was unplugged (I think that it has be removed when I worked on the car), I reconnected it but same thing ... the engine won't start
Pierre if you're still stuggling there's a product called 'Bradex Easystart'
(yellow,white and black aerosol can) which I'm fairly sure I've seen on sale
at my local Auchan when in Limoges.
It's a highly volatile mix of ether etc which will start most engines as long
as there is some compression.
If you get hold of a tin, remove the crossover pipe and spray directly into the
throttle body whilst you operate the throttle linkage and your friend/assistant
turns the igniton key.
Keep spraying whilst the engine is turning over and it WILL start as long as you continue to spray (it will sound like a tin full of nails because it will firing purely on the Easystart but don't worry)
this procedure will SOMETIMES coax a stubbon engine into life.
Which will then have you wondering 'what was all that about'.
Good Luck.
(yellow,white and black aerosol can) which I'm fairly sure I've seen on sale
at my local Auchan when in Limoges.
It's a highly volatile mix of ether etc which will start most engines as long
as there is some compression.
If you get hold of a tin, remove the crossover pipe and spray directly into the
throttle body whilst you operate the throttle linkage and your friend/assistant
turns the igniton key.
Keep spraying whilst the engine is turning over and it WILL start as long as you continue to spray (it will sound like a tin full of nails because it will firing purely on the Easystart but don't worry)
this procedure will SOMETIMES coax a stubbon engine into life.
Which will then have you wondering 'what was all that about'.
Good Luck.


