Jack-of-all-Trades

Thanks ivorbiggun I will try this

Today I have checked some things:

1) I removed the injectors, bridged the fuel pump relay and push the flap of metering head, the 4 injectors sprayed the same quantity of fuel

2) I double checked for an air leak, there is not...

3) the fuel pump pink relay has the plastic burned at the base, but it works, I dismounted (sorry I don't know the right verb), it closes...

4) I Test the compressions of the engine (cold ), I have:
Cylinder 1 10.5 bar
Cylinder 2 10.5 bar
Cylinder 3 10.5 bar
Cylinder 4 10.5 bar

So ... there is fuel at the exit of metering unit ...

ivorbiggun

I had a similar problem last year which (after I changed literally everything/pump,relay,accumulato,regulator,metering head ,injectors+seals,
manifold gaskets, distributor, leads and..... well you get the picture) finally
turned out to be the cold start injector which was leaking ALL the time.


If the Easystart works and subsequently the engine starts fine whilst hot
but is difficult to start after it's sat ifor an hour or so then I'd say thats
your problem.

Jack-of-all-Trades

I checked the spark on cylinder 1

there is a spark 5seconds, then increasingly small and after nothing ... just a ticking noise in the spark plug ...

ivorbiggun

First thing I'd try would be the Coil, then (another favourite in my experience) check the connection of the large block on the rear of the ignition ecu/the pins sometimes corrode, then maybe think about that distributor of yours just because something is new (or nearly new) doesn't guarantee it's
integrity.

ivorbiggun

What colour are the plugs and do they smell of fuel?

Jack-of-all-Trades

ivorbiggun
when engine is hot It doesn't start, it's better than cold but i have massive backfire in the inlet

ivorbiggun

How does the engine get Hot if it doesn't start?

Jack-of-all-Trades

ivorbiggun
plugs are black and smell fuel

When hot (It's happen one time, when the "breakdown" appeared) there is explosions you can idling the engine at 300rpm if you stay on starter ... and there is a lot of backfiring in the inlet

ivorbiggun

Take ALL plugs out and put the in the Oven for 20 mins on a high heat this will purge them of all unburnt fuel. Whilst they are warming up, turn the engine over a few times to purge cylinders and inlet of the same.
When plug are VERY hot remove from oven and carefully replace into
cylinder head and START.

SafeChav

Jack-of-all-Trades surprised to see ivorbiggun is actually posting something constructive for once, dont think easy start is your solution though.

Your compressions are good, and you have fuel spraying.

Now, your burn marks on the fuel pump relay, your pump is on its last legs i can tell you that much.

If you are getting back fires in the inlet it sounds like something is majorly out of time, can you DOUBLE CHECK the HT leads are on in the correct order for me.

Jack-of-all-Trades

I didn't remove/change the order of ht leads, but i will check:
With dizzy in front of you (top to bottom, left to right):

3 1

Coil

4 2

I take some pictures of dizzy, and fuel pump relay, I will upload them
On the dizzy cap, in side on the connectors of ht leads there are blues deposits, there are "striped"

Jack-of-all-Trades

Some pictures:

fuel pump relay
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164545.jpg

dizzy cap
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164546.jpg
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164546.jpg
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164546.jpg
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164546.jpg
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164712.jpg

rotor arm
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/2Jack-...327-164712.jpg

SafeChav

You need to time the engine up so number 1 is ATDC, then remove the dizzy cap and work out where number 1 should go, then fit the rest in the firing order!

Theres a lot of technical data things going around with incorrect diagrams on them!

Jack-of-all-Trades

firing order is 1-3-4-2, it's correct for me, isn't it ?

SafeChav

1342 correct

Check you have number 1 in the right place by looking at the rotor arm and then work around the dizzy anti clockwise

Jack-of-all-Trades

it's right, the dizzy and ht leads are ok, firing order too

SafeChav

This is wierd.

Did you say you have a good spark?

Jack-of-all-Trades

Ichecked if there is a good spark ... and there is not a good spark !

When you're cranking during 5s there is a spark, then more and more smaller, then no spark just a ticking noise in the spark plug ...

I'm not sure about my dizzy, can you take a look of my pictures ? Is it good ?

SafeChav

Is your battery ok........?

Its hard to see in the pictures, ive seen worse dizzy caps couldnt really say if yours is ok or not tho. That fuel pump relay looks a lot like mine i took out of the cabriolet, you WILL need a new fuel pump soon.

Jack-of-all-Trades

I will order a new fuel pump when the engine will start !

Battery is ok, it has two months

SafeChav

Might be worth trying another ECU if you can borrow one.........being as the dizzy is new.

Jack-of-all-Trades

I tried with an other ecu same thing
I "refill/recharge" the battery, it's better, the car wants to start, some explosions during the first second when I'm cranking, after nothing more...

SafeChav

Maybe you have some high resistance somewhere in your loom then!

The only 2 major components to do with the ignition are the ECU & dizzy.

Jack-of-all-Trades

I'll try to found a dizzy in working order for testing ...
Then the fuel pump

I will spend a lot of Ł for a trash car ... lol

SafeChav

it wont be the pump, leave that until when you've fixed it.

I would continuity test your loom

Jack-of-all-Trades

I will do this test, I'm looking for a wiring diagram of the loom, I have got the haynes manual but it's not easy ...


thanks for your help

Jack-of-all-Trades

I am a ... I can't find the right word for this ...

There is a small black hose at the side of metering unit ... it was unplugged ... I repace them and It starts ...

But there is backfire in the exhaust when idling ...

Perhaps It's the fuel pump ?

SafeChav

Picture of the hose please

Sounds like either the breather hose or the amal valve waste pipe.

Jack-of-all-Trades

yes you're right, it's the hose between metering unit and the breather (on the left on the cover)

But my idle is oscillating between 800 and 2000rpm and it's backfiring a lot in the exhaust ... :/

TrevCannon

So it starts now? what a read

Maybe got about 20 quid worth of petrol in the exhaust to burn off now

SafeChav

Put something in the pipe on the metering unit to block it off, you are elimating the whole engine from being a potential air leak then

(mine currently has a 3/8 - 1/4 socket adapter in there )

Jack-of-all-Trades

SafeChav
I think I don't understand what you mean. Did you mean I have to "close" the durite or I need something to "secure" it (a "collar" for example)

Now I need a Good setup, on rollers !
But in north of France I don't know who can do that

SafeChav

You've lost me now aswell

On the metering head, theres a short rubber pipe that connects to the long hard plastic breather pipe, block the rubber pipe on the metering head off for now, it will stop the whole engine from interfering with the cars running, if you get an air leak anywhere on the engine it causes problems on MFI.

fast_ford_uk

if the cars idleing a little rough at first, just keep the revs to around 1000rpm as best u can for a couple of mins, dont forget with air leaks and being flooded with petrol its going to be a bit rough to start with

Jack-of-all-Trades

and again !


The car was running fine and today it won't start
I have no airleaks,
There is fuel, there is spark (not really good but there is a spark), ht leads are ok, I got spark at exit of coil ...

I'm really borred....


If anyone have an idea ...

SafeChav

Well now you're going to have to look at the wiring loom & ECU i suppose

Dragsteer

Just little OT, what means when car starts so easy when I press metering head flap down while cranking? Too poor CO mixure at idle?